fulltimin
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Larry202br wrote:
Thanks for the reply. Another technical question, you are cutting lots of pieces of steel. You showed one instance of cutting the square tubing with a cut-off wheel, is that how you're cutting all the steel?
I started off with this project, not knowing where it would end up. Almost anyone can do fantastic work with a full set of tools in the shop.
So, in the beginning, I wanted to stay primarily with hand tools, and 18v cordless, and see what I could do with them.
For the most part, I am happy using them. When I got to the right front corner, and knowing that some angles would have to be cut, I decided to drag out my woodworking chop saw.
This is not one of the newer sliding miter saws, just an up and down motion chop saw.
I used a 10" metal cutting saw blade in it, and it has done respectably well.
If I needed to modify an angle cut slightly, then I finished it up with the portable, and a grinding wheel. Trying to remove a 1/16" piece of steel with a 10" blade, doesn't work well, as it just bends the blade.
I had both of these, so I didn't have to buy either for this project. That is why it is not on the list of money spent for this project.
Now that I have used it, the rest of the steel being cut for this project will be cut with the chop saw, as it is a wonderful time saver.
I am not sure that the sliding miter saws would be a good choice for this, because of all the fine powder from the steel and blade goes pretty much everywhere. Perhaps if the sliding section was covered up to protect it from the dust, it would not damage the slides.
Another note, is that with the 1" x 1.5" steel, it is much easier to cut in the chop saw if the steel is standing upright. In other words, sitting in the saw, it is 1.5" high.
When cutting angles, it helps to clamp the steel to the miter saw, otherwise, the saw tries to pull the steel a little, into the cut, and can change the angle slightly.
Here are the pics of the saw, and blade. - I taped the blade guard back, ONLY for the picture. I use the guard when cutting.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/mitersaw.jpg)
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/sawblade.jpg)
Sounds like you may have a project on your hands?
If you want to do something, you will find a way.
If you don't, you will find an excuse.
-------------------------------------------------
Good judgement comes from experience.
A lot of experience, comes from bad judgement.
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fulltimin
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Well, I did get a little work done today, not as much as I wanted, but some.
The first pic, I replaced the old steel with a new piece, (green arrow).
The 4 pieces that I wanted to get in, (yellow lines), are still waiting to be cut and welded in. Hopefully, I can get to them tomorrow.
That will kind of frame out the window, and add 2 partial studs, top and bottom, on 2' centers.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/passengersidebehinddoor8.jpg)
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fulltimin
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I also replaced these three pieces above the passenger side living room window.
Here again, I had re-used the old steel, because it was in pretty good shape.
After having to replace the right front steel, over the rf wheel, I decided to just go ahead and replace the used stuff, anyhow.
So, I cut out these 3 used pieces, cut new ones, and welded them in.
If you remember, the used stuff surrounding the window frame, will be coming out, when I re-frame the window panes.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/passengersideinfrontofdoor20.jpg)
Short night tonight, and hope I will have more tomorrow night.
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fulltimin
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Well, it happened again ... I ran out of welding wire.
I should have done this before, but I finally did it today. I bought a 10 lb spool of welding wire.
My recommendation to you, if you have a significant amount of welding to do, like I did, is to just buy a large spool right off the bat.
I had no idea of how much wire I would need, but, it is far cheaper to buy a 10 lb spool, rather than buy 10, 1 lb spools. It's about 1/2 the cost. I may have some left over when I am done, but I can do a lot of welding, before I run out again.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/10lbweldingwire.jpg)
So, we can add another $75.66 to our already total of 1105.15, for a grand total of $1180.81. That includes a pack of Doritos that my wife told me to pick up, if there were any at the checkout counter. There were.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/10lbweldingwire2.jpg)
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fulltimin
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And this is what it looks like when it is installed in the welder. The roll pulls from the bottom, from right to left, with the wingnut as an adjustment for friction.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/10lbweldingwire3.jpg)
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fulltimin
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These are the recommendations that are on the inside of the welder, depending on what thickness you are welding, and what wire you are using.
The closest to what I am using is highlighted in green. However, my steel is a little thicker than that, and this chart is for .035 wire, and I am using .030 wire.
So, the setting seem to work pretty well for my needs.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/weldersettings.jpg)
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fulltimin
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Another setup I am using at this point, is my chop saw for cutting the steel.
Here I have it clamped in place, and although you can't see it, the right side of the steel is supported, because it is a longer piece, and I don't want it to fall, when the cut completes.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/chopsaw.jpg)
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fulltimin
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If you are only cutting one piece at a time, with all other pieces different lengths, this is an easy way to set it up.
I adjust the steel to proper length, using the tape measure, and the blade almost all the way down. then I lock the clamp, recheck the measurement, remove the tape, and cut away.
No marking required, just measure, lock and cut.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/chopsaw2.jpg)
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fulltimin
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So, I did get my extra steel welded in place today, like I was hoping to.
The ones that I had highlighted yesterday, are now in place. Yay!!!
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/passengersidebehinddoor9.jpg)
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fulltimin
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Joined: 12/14/2003
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Anybody remember this? Yup, this is the handrail next to the entrance door.
It is held on by 4 screws, (yellow circles), which are screwed into steel behind the fiberglass.
The 2 screws with red circles, are only to hold on the semi clear cover for the light.
The blue circle, is for the push / pull switch behind the handle. That allows the light to be turned on or off, IF the switch inside was turned on. If that switch was off, then this one did nothing.
This was actually pretty leak resistant, as it had the gray putty tape behind it. I don't know if it had been replaced before or not, but it looked pretty good.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/entrancehandrail.jpg)
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