fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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Joined: 12/14/2003
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Old Islander wrote:It does look good...! But I also wonder how it will hold up over time. Assuming the sink is 10" deep, using your other measurements, it's approx. 1.9 cubic feet. Full to the brim with water, the water will weigh approx. 118 lbs. Of course, you'll seldom have it anywhere near full, but that's a lot of potential weight for a fairly thin bottom, approx 2.3 square feet. Hopefully, the layers of fiberglass wrapped around the bottom edges and on the bottom will provide sufficient strength.
(Note: In the volume calcs, I did not deduct the corner areas behind the curves.)
To test this theory, I am working on a test setup that I think will provide a little more insight as to how this will hopefully work.
I should have the results tomorrow.
If you want to do something, you will find a way.
If you don't, you will find an excuse.
-------------------------------------------------
Good judgement comes from experience.
A lot of experience, comes from bad judgement.
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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Joined: 12/14/2003
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Ok folks. I have my test setup complete and have results.
I made up a setup to test the strength of the glue joint between the sides of the sink and the bottom of the sink.
Here is the beginning of that setup. The red arrow is pointing to a piece of side wall that I had left over.
I glued that to a 1/4" thick piece of plywood, which is what I used for the sink bottom. The black arrow points to the plywood, while the yellow arrow is pointing to the glue joint.
The blue arrow is pointing to a 3/4" thick piece of plywood, which is only screwed to the 1/4" thick piece.
![[image]](https://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/gluetest.jpg)
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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Here is a different view of the same. The red arrow is pointing to a piece of side wall, and as you can see, this is actually 3 thin pieces of wood that are glued together.
The red circle shows the 2 screws coming up from the bottom, and also shows the glue joint I am going to test.
![[image]](https://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/gluetest2.jpg)
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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This is the ring that is attached to the bottom with a couple of Kreg screws.
![[image]](https://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/gluetest3.jpg)
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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These 2 pics are how the piece of sidewall is attached at the top to another ring.
The screws do not go through the piece of sidewall, but are just clamping that side piece by fiction, while I try to pull the joint apart.
![[image]](https://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/gluetest4.jpg)
![[image]](https://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/gluetest5.jpg)
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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You can see here that the piece of side wall is about 2" long.
![[image]](https://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/gluetest6.jpg)
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fulltimin
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Here is my testing setup. I clamped a 2 x 3 to the wall, so I could apply pressure to the bottom of the setup.
I used a 24" clamp to apply pressure, with the scale at the top.
You can see the bow in the clamp beam, and yes it did spring back straight after I was done.
That's my setup.
![[image]](https://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/gluetest7.jpg)
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fulltimin
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I did not test until the joint broke. My clamp was getting to the point that I did not want to flex it any more, so I quit the test at 104 lbs.
Yes, 104 lbs. That is 52 lbs per linear inch.
![[image]](https://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/gluetest8.jpg)
Since the sink is roughly 15 x 22, that means I have 2 sides that total 30", and the long sides total 44". Added together, we've got a total of 74 linear inches to split up the weight of the water to.
Even IF, I could fill the sink to 10" depth all the way around, (I can't because only 1 corner is that deep, while the shallow end is about 8") we can figure a couple of things.
15 x 22 = 330 square inches - not accounting for round corners. Then we can multiply by 10 for height, which will equal 3300 cubic inches.
There are 231 cubic inches in a gallon of water, so, 3300 / 231 = 14.28 gallons of water, times 8.33 lbs per gallon.
So, 8.33 lbs x 14.24 gallons = 119 pounds. If that is split up equally between the linear inches of 74, we only come up with 1.608 lbs per linear inch.
Since I just tested the wall to bottom glue joint at 52 lbs an inch, it looks like that joint should be fine. Again, that would be in a worst case scenario, with the sink completely full with a depth of 10 inches of water.
There was no fiberglass nor epoxy with what I tested, just wood and glue only. Fiberglass mesh and epoxy would increase the strength of the joint as well.
If I am missing something, please let me know.
Also, thanks for bringing the subject up about the strength of the sink. If you had not, I never would have tested this, and wouldn't know the numbers.
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JoeH
Apollo Beach,FL
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I am in the process of planning and making a bar top out of 2 slabs of live edge wood. Once built, I will be coating the top with epoxy. In looking at the various 2 part epoxy coatings made for this purpose, most, if not all, that I've checked out say they are safe for use on food surfaces..... this made me wonder about your use of the POR 15 and it's safety in use in an area that will have contact with food preparation utensils. Will there be possible issues with chemicals leaching out, chips or peeling of the POR 15 getting on your dishware , etc. Probably a small chance of exposure, but I thought I'd bring it up anyway
Joe
2013 Dutch Star 4338- all electric
Toad is 2015 F-150 with bikes,kayaks and Harley aboard
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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JoeH wrote:I am in the process of planning and making a bar top out of 2 slabs of live edge wood. Once built, I will be coating the top with epoxy. In looking at the various 2 part epoxy coatings made for this purpose, most, if not all, that I've checked out say they are safe for use on food surfaces..... this made me wonder about your use of the POR 15 and it's safety in use in an area that will have contact with food preparation utensils. Will there be possible issues with chemicals leaching out, chips or peeling of the POR 15 getting on your dishware , etc. Probably a small chance of exposure, but I thought I'd bring it up anyway
Thank you. I did call them at one point. The individual I spoke with said that they are unaware of any issues with it. However, since it has not been specifically approved by the Fda, Por15 tells people not to use it for that purpose.
Then again, looking at the Fda's track record, it makes one wonder, if their endorsement is as valuable as we tend to give them credit for.
In addition to that, Por15 can always be covered with Epoxy, or some other top coat as well that would be approved for contact with food.
That would give the strength of one, and safety of the other.
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