fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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Joined: 12/14/2003
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When I looked a little closer under the fiberglass, this greeted me.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/passengeroutside2.jpg)
Looking at this, the steel studs are covered with a layer of plywood, which was originally glued to them. This is the result of plywood that has de-laminated.
If you want to do something, you will find a way.
If you don't, you will find an excuse.
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Good judgement comes from experience.
A lot of experience, comes from bad judgement.
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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Joined: 12/14/2003
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Before I move on to the inside, I have a couple of things to finish up on the outside.
First pic is one that shows the dividing line between the ridged fiberglass wall, and the fiberglass that is hanging by the nails and rivets.
Everything below the red line, is removable, but it is all one piece. It is not the lightweight stuff, like above the rivet line, because everything above the rivet line is glued to 1/8" plywood.
Everything below is kind of free standing, so it is about double the thickness of the top stuff.
Since everything below the red line is one piece, it is kind of awkward to remove. You realize that one piece is 25' long, and the piece under the entrance door is only a few inches high.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/fiberglassbottom.jpg)
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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Joined: 12/14/2003
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So, in order to remove that single piece, this is what is necessary to remove.
Everything in yellow, has screws, and all of them must come out, and all the doors removed, so that one piece can come off.
The green, is where all the rivets and a few screws are. So, while it is not rocket science to remove it, it does take some time to remove all those screws, rivets, and doors.
Then, you will need help to get it off without breaking the fiberglass.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/fiberglassbottom1.jpg)
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Jim@HiTek
Gresham, OR, USA
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Joined: 07/17/2004
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Why not just vertically cut it into sections? With a fine saw so there's only the wisp of a kerf?
Jim@HiTek
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Winnebago Journey, '02
Cat 330HP Diesel, 36.5', two slides.
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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Joined: 12/14/2003
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Instead, here is what I did. At this time, it wasn't necessary to remove the entire piece, so I just removed the rear half.
All of the yellow had screws, which I removed. Most were phillips head screws, but some took a 1/4" socket. An adapter for my impact driver, which converted it to 1/4" square drive, and then the socket, made short work of removing them.
With all the screws in this project that I have removed, I can't stress enough, how much of a time saver it is to have that impact driver instead of trying to use a screwdriver, and socket with a ratchet. You won't regret having one.
The green areas, had only a few screws, but was mostly rivets, which I removed.
Under the door, you can see there is a little red vertical line. That is where I cut the fiberglass. I figured that would be the weak point, and it is not easily visible, so that would be the easiest fix along the entire length.
So, that allowed me to remove the bottom rear half, so I could pull back the fiberglass above, to get into the side wall.
Also note that I removed the screws and rivets at the rear cap, all the way to the joint, about 1/3 of the way up the side, so the fiberglass had some flexibility.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/fiberglassbottom2.jpg)
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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Jim@HiTek wrote:Why not just vertically cut it into sections? With a fine saw so there's only the wisp of a kerf?
You were too fast for my post. Lol...
Just trying to give a heads up for someone who may be thinking about doing this, so they know what they are getting into.
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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Ok, moving on.
Here is one I forgot to post.
This is the door just forward of the generator door on the passenger side.
Just to note, the red arrow points to the square flooring tube, and the green arrow, points to the top of the bottom "base plate" of the wall. Generally, since the wall is screwed to the side of the flooring, you would think that the base plate, and the flooring would be at the same height.
Indeed, the rest of the coach, had the wall base plate and the floor tubing at the same height. On this side of the coach, behind the door, they somehow missed it. The difference is about 3/8". You can see the wall base plate is a little lower than the floor tubing.
Not that is is a big deal, it's just something I noticed while taking this apart.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/storagepassenger9.jpg)
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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Joined: 12/14/2003
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Now, back to what's underneath the siding.
Here is a pic from a brochure of Fleetwood, about how their steel coach frame was made.
As you can see, over the rear wheels, the flooring and the wall tubing does not continue in a straight line.
They left some extra space, probably for getting the rear wheels off, although, even with it straight across, there is still room to get in there, and remove them.
You can also see, up front, the tubing is raised a few inches also.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/coachframe.jpg)
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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Joined: 12/14/2003
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And here is what it looks like, close up.
The green lines indicate where Fleetwood put the framing, over top of the rear wheels.
The yellow lines, indicate where they would be it they were run straight across.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/passengeroutside3.jpg)
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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Joined: 12/14/2003
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So, our next step is to remove the steel over top of the wheels, so I can weld up this side to match the driver side.
In this pic, the yellow lines are the steel pieces I need to remove, and the red lines indicate where I will be cutting, in order to do that.
The stud on the right will stay there, and is at the left side of the door, and believe it or not, after scraping off the old plywood, that stud looks pretty good, so it will stay there.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/passengeroutside4.jpg)
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