oyvind

San Francisco

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Joined: 09/08/2017

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fulltimin wrote:
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What it does do, is make a difference is the engine heat. When going up hills, using just the 2 primaries will give us about 85-90% of our power, without overheating the engine. If I kick in the secondaries, I can sit and watch the heat gauge climb, with little performance gain.
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Sounds like you might have a bad Vacuum Advance, or an issue with your vacuum system. This would cause the distributor not to adjust the timing as the mix get richer, but RPM stays the same; leading to more fuel failing to burn up in the cylinder, but instead ends up generating heat in the headers.
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fulltimin

Home is where we Park It.

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Joined: 12/14/2003

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oyvind wrote: fulltimin wrote:
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What it does do, is make a difference is the engine heat. When going up hills, using just the 2 primaries will give us about 85-90% of our power, without overheating the engine. If I kick in the secondaries, I can sit and watch the heat gauge climb, with little performance gain.
...
Sounds like you might have a bad Vacuum Advance, or an issue with your vacuum system. This would cause the distributor not to adjust the timing as the mix get richer, but RPM stays the same; leading to more fuel failing to burn up in the cylinder, but instead ends up generating heat in the headers.
The timing light indicates that it is working, and the vacuum gauge that I keep hooked up up to it, shows that everything should be fine.
The rv cam in those engines, according to specs, were designed to run at max torque between idle and 3500 rpm. Anything beyond that is a downhill slide, power wise, so I never run above 3000.
I have had more than a few times, when other motor homes tried to pass me on a hill, that I just left them sit.
The best gas mileage I have gotten, was a little over 10, with the generator running, and the overhead air on.
Average is generally 8.5 to 9. with gen and overhead air on.
If it is all uphill for long distances, it will drop to 7.
Would I like to have more? Sure, we all would. Compared to what I hear others getting, I am happy.
Doing a little math, running that engine at about 3000 rpm requires less than a 400 cfm carb. You can only stuff so much air and fuel in there at a given rpm.
If you want to do something, you will find a way.
If you don't, you will find an excuse.
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Good judgement comes from experience.
A lot of experience, comes from bad judgement.
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fulltimin

Home is where we Park It.

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Here's another shot of the inside of the above pic. It is easy to see that only the right stud goes all the way to the base plate.
The yellow line shows the piece of steel that has all the pop rivets in it from the outside, that holds the trim, and holds up the bottom part of the fiberglass.
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fulltimin

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This pic shows the left side of the above pic. The stud in the middle is the one that is next to the left side of the window.
That stud also goes to the base plate and also to the roof/ceiling.
This is also a better close up on the left of the new stud I added that runs from the base plate up to the roof.
Also notice the 2 screws that are way too long, sticking out from the inside, that holds the bottom leg of the awning.
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fulltimin

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Here is a close up of the 2 studs under the passenger window.
There used to be a table on this side of the motor home. There were 2 chairs bolted to the floor, and a table in between.
So, Fleetwood, decided that steel would be needed to hold the table in place. There is a fair amount of stress placed on the table, between sitting there, bumping it, and even using the table to help ones self to get up. So, no wood there.
Over the years, it's anybody's guess if someone screwed something else there, as there are multiple screw holes in those 2 studs.
Inside the red circles, some have 2 or 3 holes, others, only 1.
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fulltimin

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Left stud under window......
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fulltimin

Home is where we Park It.

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Right stud under window........
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fulltimin

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Back to the driver side window, behind the pilot's seat.
I cut the 2 pieces of steel that will be welded in over top of the window. I kicked it around for a little while, and even though they were not there originally, I decided to add them.
Since I am not going to use the same method for building the walls that the factory did, (as in gluing the wall together), I wanted to have extra support from the steel studs.
I cut them to length and fit them in there, they just need to be welded in yet.
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fulltimin

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Now, back to the passenger's side.
In the pic below, the stud on the left indicated by the green arrow, is one that I am adding in. The rest of the wall will be indexed from that stud, so everything is cut and fit, it just needs to be welded in yet.
The 2 yellow boxes, with yellow arrows, are the 2 studs that are currently below the window, and do not run all the way to the base plate. Those will be removed next.
The blue lines indicate where I am going to install new studs. The 2 vertical studs below the window will run all the way to the base plate. The reason for moving them forward a little bit, is to get them on 2 foot centers.
There will also be 2 put in over top of the window, welded to the ceiling/roof.
The 2 horizontal blue lines, 1 above and 1 below the window will be added in next, so that I can redo the window frame, just like the other side will get.
Reusing the window panes, but not the frames. Will have them hinged at the top, fastened at the bottom, screen on the inside.
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fulltimin

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I don't know about you, but I love work.
I could sit and watch it for hours.......
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