fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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Joined: 12/14/2003
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So, upon further inspection, there weas more than one place along here that ended up looking like this.....
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/poprivet4.jpg)
This was completely covered up by the trim and pop rivets, and who would have thought that the bottom piece of fiberglass would have been on the outside, depending only on the caulking to prevent leaks.
Unfortunately, many rv's are manufactured like this - depending only on caulk to prevent leaks. Obviously, that doesn't work well in the long run, if there is any lapse in checking and re-sealing those areas.
Imagine if you had to go up on your house roof every year and caulk joints and seams like an rv.... Lol...
If you want to do something, you will find a way.
If you don't, you will find an excuse.
-------------------------------------------------
Good judgement comes from experience.
A lot of experience, comes from bad judgement.
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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Haven't found any boat cleats yet. Lol...
Hope to have more pics tomorrow...
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Jim@HiTek
Gresham, OR, USA
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So much fun following along on this huge project. Thanks, OP!
Jim@HiTek
Have shop, will travel!
Visit my travel & RV repair blog site. Subscribe for emailed updates.
Winnebago Journey, '02
Cat 330HP Diesel, 36.5', two slides.
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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Joined: 12/14/2003
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Jim@HiTek wrote:So much fun following along on this huge project. Thanks, OP!
Thanks. Ordered some steel tubing to replace the bad. Should be here sometime tomorrow. 1" x 1.5" x .083 wall.
That's what the factory used, and it lasted 34 years, and still looks good, where there was no water running inside.
So, it's about time to get the welder out, and start making sparks....
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BigRabbitMan
Cottage Grove, OR
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fulltimin wrote:So, upon further inspection, there weas more than one place along here that ended up looking like this.....
This was completely covered up by the trim and pop rivets, and who would have thought that the bottom piece of fiberglass would have been on the outside, depending only on the caulking to prevent leaks.
Unfortunately, many rv's are manufactured like this - depending only on caulk to prevent leaks. Obviously, that doesn't work well in the long run, if there is any lapse in checking and re-sealing those areas.
Imagine if you had to go up on your house roof every year and caulk joints and seams like an rv.... Lol...
I shudder looking at your pictures! I also have an older coach, see signature, and have done many things to it. But in my case the top of the coach from the beltline up and over to the same spot on the other side is all one piece like an upside down bath tub. No side wall or front or rear cap seams. The side panels for the lower section ARE on the inside of the seam with an about 2" overlap. You are correct as to seals and caulks only lasting so long. I just completed pulling the window frames off and replacing the old, hard, nonflexible frame to sidewall seal.
I am fortunate that there is no plywood in the wall construction so no wall damage occurred. Carry on as I am finding it very interesting!
BigRabbitMan
Gas to Diesel Conversion project
76 FMC #1046, Gas Pusher became a Diesel Pusher
Discussion thread on this site
"You're never too old to learn something stupid."
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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BigRabbitMan wrote:
But in my case the top of the coach from the beltline up and over to the same spot on the other side is all one piece like an upside down bath tub. No side wall or front or rear cap seams. The side panels for the lower section ARE on the inside of the seam with an about 2" overlap.
That is a much more reliable system for preventing leaks. During rains, even if the caulk has failed, it still won't leak.
Nice rig, by the way.
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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SCREWED. SCREWED. SCREWED.
What do you do when you can't get your screws to come out and have stripped out the head? I am glad you asked.
First of all, let me say, I use an impact driver for removing screws. The impact of the driver does a much better job of removing screws than trying to remove them with a screwdriver. However, when things are seriously rusty, sometimes even the driver won't remove them.
Soooooo, it's time for other measures. In this first picture, I used my grinder, to cut a small slot in the head of the screw. I only did one half to allow myself more options, in case this first attempt didn't work. The yellow arrow shows the slot.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/screwed.jpg)
The next step is to use a punch, (I used a screw driver - incorrect tool, I know), and get it into the slot from the side, then with a hammer, give it a good whack. Sometimes, it may take more than one whack. Usually this will break the screw loose.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/screwed1.jpg)
Then take a grinder, and create another full slot in the screw head.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/screwed2.jpg)
Insert screw driver and remove screw. Works most of the time...
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/screwed3.jpg)
Worst case scenario.... Grind the head off.
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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So, outside in the heat today, just having a blast.....
I took a punch and pushed the remnants of the pop rivets in, so that I can remove the lower fiberglass on the outside, which will give me access to the steel framing inside the coach along the drivers side.
Also removed a bunch of above said screws to make sure nothing is holding the fiberglass in.
Everything from the dark line running along the side of the rv and below will come off, hopefully, all in one piece, as it is now.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/outsidelowerdriverside.jpg)
Another shot from the rear.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/outsidelowerdriverside1.jpg)
Everything that had screws from the outside was removed, including clearance lights.
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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Joined: 12/14/2003
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Couple of things I wanted to point out. This is the side of the rv. The yellow line points to a line where the siding is pieced together.
I find it interesting that these pieces are glued together with the top piece overlapping the bottom piece, with the bottom piece INSIDE of the top piece, just as it should be. Great for preventing leaks, right from the factory.
The green arrow at the bottom, is only a couple of feet away, and is the exact opposite. The upper piece is on the inside, and the lower piece is on the outside....exactly opposite of how it should be for preventing leaks.
I understand, it is a manufacturing thing. Manufacturers don't always do things the best way, sometimes it's just easier, cheaper, faster, etc.
The red arrow points to where the rear cap overlaps the wall siding. As you can see, the cap is smooth, and the wall siding has ridges in it. So, adding more gray rv butyl putty tape is the solution here....LOL. Just fill in the holes with more tape and let 'er go.
After all, it will be under a piece of trim, with pop rivets. Who's gonna know?
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/outsidelowerdriverside2.jpg)
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femailyetti
South of Disney World
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I have used a dremil tool to grind of the screw heads, then the drilled out the screw and bolt a bunch of times on my project. Keep up the work. and have fun on your project
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