rhagfo wrote:
Look at my Signature! I tow an easy 11,000# with a Cummins 5.9 with a 50 hp, 150 lb. ft. chip, I also live in the PNW and pull hills at posted speeds with a 3.55 rear gear!
cummins2014 wrote:
Seriously, you towed much with the 7.3 F250 with 12K hooked up . You can install all the PacBrakes in the world, won't change anything but a bit better on the downgrades, but first you have to get to the top to go down the other side.
Good advice on the PacBrake, but totally bad advice on the good to go. There is nothing good to go towing 12K with a 7.3 .
rhagfo wrote:
Install a PacBrake and you a are good to go!
Install a PacBrake and you a are good to go!
Seriously, you towed much with the 7.3 F250 with 12K hooked up . You can install all the PacBrakes in the world, won't change anything but a bit better on the downgrades, but first you have to get to the top to go down the other side.
Good advice on the PacBrake, but totally bad advice on the good to go. There is nothing good to go towing 12K with a 7.3 .
Look at my Signature! I tow an easy 11,000# with a Cummins 5.9 with a 50 hp, 150 lb. ft. chip, I also live in the PNW and pull hills at posted speeds with a 3.55 rear gear!
Totally agree with you. The 7.3 is a highly capable motor. The bad thing about the "new" diesel and gas HD motors is that they have so much power people have lost the sense of vehicles working hard.
Thanks!
Jeremiah
TV-2022 Silverado 2WD
TT - Zinger 270BH
WD Hitch- HaulMaster 1,000 lb Round Bar
Dual Friction bar sway control
It’s Kind of Fun to do the Impossible
~Walt Disney~
Bedlam wrote:
X2
rhagfo wrote:
Install a PacBrake and you a are good to go!
Install a PacBrake and you a are good to go!
X2
X3. It is still the best diesel Ford PUT in a truck (for Fish) by a long shot! I looked long and hard for a good 7.3L prior to buying my Ram. Yes, you will certainly be slower on hills than newer trucks but who cares? I would still seriously consider a cherry 7.3L Super Duty crew cab dually 4x4 Lariat if I stumbled across one.
The exhaust brake should be considered a must, however. I didn't have one until my current truck and it makes towing mountain passes MUCH more enjoyable.
2013 Ram 3500 Megacab DRW Laramie 4x4, 6.7L Cummins, G56, 3.73, Maximum Steel, black lthr, B&W RVK3670 hitch, Retrax, Linex, and a bunch of options incl. cargo camera
2008 Corsair Excella Platinum 34.5 CKTS fifth wheel with winter package & disc brakes
blofgren wrote:
X3. It is still the best diesel Ford PUT in a truck (for Fish) by a long shot! I looked long and hard for a good 7.3L prior to buying my Ram. Yes, you will certainly be slower on hills than newer trucks but who cares? I would still seriously consider a cherry 7.3L Super Duty crew cab dually 4x4 Lariat if I stumbled across one.
The exhaust brake should be considered a must, however. I didn't have one until my current truck and it makes towing mountain passes MUCH more enjoyable.
Bedlam wrote:
X2
rhagfo wrote:
Install a PacBrake and you a are good to go!
Install a PacBrake and you a are good to go!
X2
X3. It is still the best diesel Ford PUT in a truck (for Fish) by a long shot! I looked long and hard for a good 7.3L prior to buying my Ram. Yes, you will certainly be slower on hills than newer trucks but who cares? I would still seriously consider a cherry 7.3L Super Duty crew cab dually 4x4 Lariat if I stumbled across one.
The exhaust brake should be considered a must, however. I didn't have one until my current truck and it makes towing mountain passes MUCH more enjoyable.
And the 5.9 cummins is still the best diesel dodge put in a truck (for blofgren).
I have to say with our experience the 7.3 PSD trucks have cost us far less money to keep on the road than the dodge trucks.
'12 Ford Super Duty FX4 ELD CC 6.7 PSD 400HP 800ft/lbs "270k Miles"
'16 Sprinter 319MKS "Wide Body"
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/wink.gif "wink")
.Have a good night.
blofgren wrote:
You may very well be right Fish but at least the 6.7L Cummins is the only engine after the 5.9L, unlike 3 engines from Ford after the 7.3L (actually may be 4 if the incredibly improved 2015 6.7L is included).
Have a good night.
You may very well be right Fish but at least the 6.7L Cummins is the only engine after the 5.9L, unlike 3 engines from Ford after the 7.3L (actually may be 4 if the incredibly improved 2015 6.7L is included)
.Have a good night.
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/sleep.gif "sleep")
For example, in this thread, we have on the one hand a poster who had a 3.73 ratio who complained of a lack of power on the grades with 12K of trailer. And on the other hand, we have a poster who is quite satisfied with his 7.3L at 22K gross who had a 4.10 rear end and who says "and we go and we go."
The rear end ratio makes a significant difference in the towing experience. The 7.3L engine was used in true medium duty applications with GVWRs at 33K Lbs. Not GCWRs... GVWRS. And the horsepower rating of those motors? 175HP to 230HP at the very top end of the line, for fire truck apparatus. The rear ends had deeper gearing. And the top speeds were governed at 65 to 70 mph.
Navistar warned that the use of exhaust brakes can create enough back pressure to float the valves, causing damage to the 7.3L engine. I don't doubt that several different style of exhaust brakes have been used on the 7.3L for years... including the Pac Brake, the BD Brake, and the Banks Brake, not to mention various electrical black box devices that use the 7.3L's own stock exhaust back pressure warm up valve already built into the turbo as an exhaust brake. Those who have used them judiciously have enjoyed them. But apparently International saw cases where their overuse led to engine damage, which is pretty hard to do on a 7.3L, compared to the more delicate diesels in Fords made since.
I don't have any power complaints on my stock 7.3L, but I have 4.88 rear gears. This gives me the use of all four forward speeds of the automatic transmission, even when towing, whereas if I had 3.73 gears, I'd be limited to locking out OD and using only 3 gears. On really steep grades (10%), like towing over the Teton pass in Wyoming, I of course had to drop it down to third, and then to second for the final climb, but I was able to climb part way in 4th, then about 3/4 of the way to the top in third, and just as EGT's started to climb from lugging, finish the last little bit in 2nd.
Which was perfect, because I wanted to be in 2nd at the very beginning of the descent on the other side, rather than downshifting later after allowing momentum to build with the trailer pushing from behind, like I've noticed some drivers do. Again, deep gearing helps in both directions when heavy.
It does not help fuel economy when empty though. Which is why 3.73 gears are so popular. The point is, I would pay attention to what rear gear people have when they talk about their satisfaction or lack thereof with the power they felt they had with the 7.3L. Having the same model year 7.3L as the OP, I think the power of the engine is quite adequate as is, but gear ratio is key.
I don't have an exhaust brake, but with my super tight, BTS custom tuned tranny I have found even the puny coast clutch helps me some in the hills and I've towed all across the U.S. thru all the major mtn ranges fron the Sierras and Rockies out west to the Cumberlands, Smokies, and Adirondacks back east. The key is speed and proper gear going down.
Larry
2001 standard box 7.3L E-350 PSD Van with 4.10 rear and 2007 Holiday Rambler Aluma-Lite 8306S Been RV'ing since 1974.
RAINKAP INSTALL////ETERNABOND INSTALL
jerem0621 wrote:
Totally agree with you. The 7.3 is a highly capable motor. The bad thing about the "new" diesel and gas HD motors is that they have so much power people have lost the sense of vehicles working hard.
Thanks!
Jeremiah
Totally agree with you. The 7.3 is a highly capable motor. The bad thing about the "new" diesel and gas HD motors is that they have so much power people have lost the sense of vehicles working hard.
Thanks!
Jeremiah
^^^^^^This comment is spot-on!
I can attest to the capabilities of the 7.3, but you'll have to take it with a grain of salt since mine is highly modified. I used to tow the 5er in my sig line, which loaded comes up to about 10,500 - 11,000 lbs. I now tow with the Ram in my sig line, and its a night and day difference, but that's another story.
In a bone stock configuration, I don't know how tolerable the 7.3 PSD would be for that load, but I'm speculating it would be just fine. If you're willing to put some extra $$$ into the truck to increase its capability, then I'd proceed with the purchase of the RV you're looking at. Buy it, pull it, and see how it goes for you. Its hard to make an assessment on the vehicle in its current state without knowing its exact condition (motor, trans, suspension, etc.). But if you're not willing to invest a little more in the truck, then you should probably reconsider.
With my 289K mile OBS 7.3L PSD, E4OD trans, and 4.10 rear end, I'd hook up to that 5er and pull it across the country. But I also have a injectors, gauges, 4" exhaust, tymar intake, 6 pos chip, upgraded turbo wheel, bellowed up-pipes, trans cooler, 6.0 fan, enhanced vacuum pump, 203 deg t-stat...........
Now, it'll be done loudly and with ominous amounts of black smoke, but it'll run. I lock in cruise control at 65 MPH in OD. In the hills and mountains, I'll turn the OD off and run at 55 MPH because of the EGT's. And I've not often paid attention to MPG's.
I don't have an exhaust brake, in fact I gutted the EBPV so that's no longer an option.
Duramax + Grand Design 5er + B & W Companion
SBGTF
BigToe wrote:
Whenever reading how so called "under powered" or "slow" the 7.3L is when towing, bear in mind the axle ratio the person with the opinion had.
For example, in this thread, we have on the one hand a poster who had a 3.73 ratio who complained of a lack of power on the grades with 12K of trailer. And on the other hand, we have a poster who is quite satisfied with his 7.3L at 22K gross who had a 4.10 rear end and who says "and we go and we go."
The rear end ratio makes a significant difference in the towing experience. The 7.3L engine was used in true medium duty applications with GVWRs at 33K Lbs. Not GCWRs... GVWRS. And the horsepower rating of those motors? 175HP to 230HP at the very top end of the line, for fire truck apparatus. The rear ends had deeper gearing. And the top speeds were governed at 65 to 70 mph.
Navistar warned that the use of exhaust brakes can create enough back pressure to float the valves, causing damage to the 7.3L engine. I don't doubt that several different style of exhaust brakes have been used on the 7.3L for years... including the Pac Brake, the BD Brake, and the Banks Brake, not to mention various electrical black box devices that use the 7.3L's own stock exhaust back pressure warm up valve already built into the turbo as an exhaust brake. Those who have used them judiciously have enjoyed them. But apparently International saw cases where their overuse led to engine damage, which is pretty hard to do on a 7.3L, compared to the more delicate diesels in Fords made since.
I don't have any power complaints on my stock 7.3L, but I have 4.88 rear gears. This gives me the use of all four forward speeds of the automatic transmission, even when towing, whereas if I had 3.73 gears, I'd be limited to locking out OD and using only 3 gears. On really steep grades (10%), like towing over the Teton pass in Wyoming, I of course had to drop it down to third, and then to second for the final climb, but I was able to climb part way in 4th, then about 3/4 of the way to the top in third, and just as EGT's started to climb from lugging, finish the last little bit in 2nd.
Which was perfect, because I wanted to be in 2nd at the very beginning of the descent on the other side, rather than downshifting later after allowing momentum to build with the trailer pushing from behind, like I've noticed some drivers do. Again, deep gearing helps in both directions when heavy.
It does not help fuel economy when empty though. Which is why 3.73 gears are so popular. The point is, I would pay attention to what rear gear people have when they talk about their satisfaction or lack thereof with the power they felt they had with the 7.3L. Having the same model year 7.3L as the OP, I think the power of the engine is quite adequate as is, but gear ratio is key.
Whenever reading how so called "under powered" or "slow" the 7.3L is when towing, bear in mind the axle ratio the person with the opinion had.
For example, in this thread, we have on the one hand a poster who had a 3.73 ratio who complained of a lack of power on the grades with 12K of trailer. And on the other hand, we have a poster who is quite satisfied with his 7.3L at 22K gross who had a 4.10 rear end and who says "and we go and we go."
The rear end ratio makes a significant difference in the towing experience. The 7.3L engine was used in true medium duty applications with GVWRs at 33K Lbs. Not GCWRs... GVWRS. And the horsepower rating of those motors? 175HP to 230HP at the very top end of the line, for fire truck apparatus. The rear ends had deeper gearing. And the top speeds were governed at 65 to 70 mph.
Navistar warned that the use of exhaust brakes can create enough back pressure to float the valves, causing damage to the 7.3L engine. I don't doubt that several different style of exhaust brakes have been used on the 7.3L for years... including the Pac Brake, the BD Brake, and the Banks Brake, not to mention various electrical black box devices that use the 7.3L's own stock exhaust back pressure warm up valve already built into the turbo as an exhaust brake. Those who have used them judiciously have enjoyed them. But apparently International saw cases where their overuse led to engine damage, which is pretty hard to do on a 7.3L, compared to the more delicate diesels in Fords made since.
I don't have any power complaints on my stock 7.3L, but I have 4.88 rear gears. This gives me the use of all four forward speeds of the automatic transmission, even when towing, whereas if I had 3.73 gears, I'd be limited to locking out OD and using only 3 gears. On really steep grades (10%), like towing over the Teton pass in Wyoming, I of course had to drop it down to third, and then to second for the final climb, but I was able to climb part way in 4th, then about 3/4 of the way to the top in third, and just as EGT's started to climb from lugging, finish the last little bit in 2nd.
Which was perfect, because I wanted to be in 2nd at the very beginning of the descent on the other side, rather than downshifting later after allowing momentum to build with the trailer pushing from behind, like I've noticed some drivers do. Again, deep gearing helps in both directions when heavy.
It does not help fuel economy when empty though. Which is why 3.73 gears are so popular. The point is, I would pay attention to what rear gear people have when they talk about their satisfaction or lack thereof with the power they felt they had with the 7.3L. Having the same model year 7.3L as the OP, I think the power of the engine is quite adequate as is, but gear ratio is key.
Again his is a F250 SRW trying to tow 12K with 3:73 gears, isn't happening as great as some of you would like him to believe. ETG's are always going to be a factor that will hold that 7.3 back on long grades. I even went to the 6.0 intercooler, helped some, but I still had to get out of it on long grades to lower the ETG's.
It seems some of you are all hung up on the power of a 7.3, and forget he is overloading that F250.
Kamyo91 wrote:
Cummins2014
1) I'm not trying to validate anything
2) I didn't see your detailed post, infact there are a bunch of post on first page that just showed up in the last 40 min.
As far as F250 F350. the 2000 SRW F250 F350 is the same - springs, rear end, drive train, brakes oh wait one thing is different the LEGAL issue of what they say your payload is a piece of paper and how much you register it for with the state. Heck I pulled 6k TT with a Dodge Durango R/T for 6 years, overloaded maybe.
What I'm was looking for is honest real world answers of engine/drivetrain HP/Torque with modest upgrades. you did answer that just didn't see it till now for some reason or another.
I haven't made a decision, I'm doing research.
Cummins2014
1) I'm not trying to validate anything
2) I didn't see your detailed post, infact there are a bunch of post on first page that just showed up in the last 40 min.
As far as F250 F350. the 2000 SRW F250 F350 is the same - springs, rear end, drive train, brakes oh wait one thing is different the LEGAL issue of what they say your payload is a piece of paper and how much you register it for with the state. Heck I pulled 6k TT with a Dodge Durango R/T for 6 years, overloaded maybe.
What I'm was looking for is honest real world answers of engine/drivetrain HP/Torque with modest upgrades. you did answer that just didn't see it till now for some reason or another.
I haven't made a decision, I'm doing research.
No they are not the same , the spring pack is different . thats what makes one a 250 ,and the other a 350
I spent a lot of time towing with a 7.3 , and I was NEVER happy towing in the mountains here in Utah, Idaho, and Montana. I never enjoyed the motor screaming at 3000 rpm's in second gear at 35-40 mph with one eye on the road ,and one eye on the ETG gauge .
It's your choice. I don't care what you do, I'm just telling you what you are in for. Keep it on the flat highways, and out of the mountains ,and you will be a happy camper, provide you have the correct tire capacity for the pin weight etc etc.