Francesca Knowles wrote:
Of course, with properly sized/inflated tires, the correct load distribution, and the correct speed one doesn't need mechanical sway controls at all!
As is well known throughout most of the trailering world EXCEPT in North America...
Much of the world outside of North America uses a variety of towing "stabilizers".Of course, with properly sized/inflated tires, the correct load distribution, and the correct speed one doesn't need mechanical sway controls at all!
As is well known throughout most of the trailering world EXCEPT in North America...
This article from the UK Camping and Caravanning Club discusses some of them.
Ron
2016 6.7 CTD 2500 BIG HORN MEGA CAB
2013 Forest River 3001W Windjammer
Equilizer Hitch
Honda EU2000
"I have this plan to live forever; so far my plan is working"
2008 Ram 3500 With a Really Strong Tractor Motor...........
LB, SRW, 4X4, 6-Speed Auto, 3.73, Prodigy P3, Blue Ox Sway Pro........
2014 Sandsport 26FBSL
I really like the design.
Thanks JBarca for sharing the video.
TV-2022 Silverado 2WD
TT - Zinger 270BH
WD Hitch- HaulMaster 1,000 lb Round Bar
Dual Friction bar sway control
It’s Kind of Fun to do the Impossible
~Walt Disney~
later to noodle it
Reese/Draw/Ox/etc types use ever increasing WD forces during any off line orientation
between the TV and TT
Some have a change in bar end shape to increase that WD spring force more and
to limit the off line travel
Again, like their nifty chain attachment...except for the clamp on, but they have
a bolt on option. Also noticed that they do have a cross bar on the clamps.
Suggested that for the Andersen tongue attachment. That would limit any sliding
Since the Ox chain attachment also limits the amount of movement by the chain, it
acts to limit the side to side movement, which is part of the off line movement
of the TT's center line vs the TV's center line
That is where the other systems make 'noise'...the cams riding up
on the bar ends, or the bars moving side to side, or the chain moving
around side to side. This is similar to how/why the Andersen has
been reported to be silent. The only thing can see for now where the
Ox might make noise is the clamp on chain attachment moving (and again
there is a bolt on option)
Head tilt is to gain WD spring bar purchase and with that nifty chain attachment,
there should be no need for head tilting. Now see why they eliminated that
tilt function and reduced the number of parts & mating surfaces.
Another thing noticed is that they had flattened the spring bars and in the right
direction.
Flattened so that it will bend vertically as designed. Side to side will have
a much larger cross section, therefore more forces needed to bend it.
Marry that with the chain attachment assembly and the sided to side is very
limited or controlled to whatever side to side the un-captured chain links allow
Do see a new potential down side and is with extreme angles while
parking/maneuvering/etc. That limited number of chain links not
captured, which is a good thing while towing, becomes a potential
limiting factor...will the bars bend even more? Will the 'U' bolt
allow the chain to move more? Will the chain attachment allow the
chain to unwrap in the 'right' direction, therefore allow more movement
while turning 'tight'? This is the good and bad...it is part of
how they control sway while traveling, but that becomes an issue
while parking...I think...for now...anyone have one of these?
Just in to peek and not enough time to really noodle this, but am liking it more.
So much more, maybe this instead of a Pullrite...just a maybe till more time
to go through how it works. The Pullrite's loss of ground clearance
a potential deal breaker for me...especially in light of my new found
attributes of this Ox system
-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...
BenK wrote:
...snip...
Do see a new potential down side and is with extreme angles while
parking/maneuvering/etc. That limited number of chain links not
captured, which is a good thing while towing, becomes a potential
limiting factor...will the bars bend even more? Will the 'U' bolt
allow the chain to move more? Will the chain attachment allow the
chain to unwrap in the 'right' direction, therefore allow more movement
while turning 'tight'? This is the good and bad...it is part of
how they control sway while traveling, but that becomes an issue
while parking...I think...for now...anyone have one of these?
.....snip
...snip...
Do see a new potential down side and is with extreme angles while
parking/maneuvering/etc. That limited number of chain links not
captured, which is a good thing while towing, becomes a potential
limiting factor...will the bars bend even more? Will the 'U' bolt
allow the chain to move more? Will the chain attachment allow the
chain to unwrap in the 'right' direction, therefore allow more movement
while turning 'tight'? This is the good and bad...it is part of
how they control sway while traveling, but that becomes an issue
while parking...I think...for now...anyone have one of these?
.....snip
Ben,
Good points, all. I am using the BlueOx and I too was concerned about tight maneuvers. I sent an email to them asking if I should disconnect the bars before, for instance, backing into a tight spot. They replied that was not necessary, so I never do. When I back into the spot where I park it here at home, it's as tight a turn as I can do ( the corner of the trailer is close to hitting the corner of the truck ), and there does not seem to be any harm done to or with the hitch.
so with your comments
The Andersen is nifty in basic architecture, but they miss the boat, IMHO, with
their execution....and now read that they have a band-aide clip on
the coupler latch...telling and confirmation of sorts
Whereas BlueOx has done both well and will need to look at them more seriously
and closer when the time comes for me to purchase a WD system
BenK wrote:
Just in to peek and not enough time to really noodle this, but am liking it more.
So much more, maybe this instead of a Pullrite...just a maybe till more time
to go through how it works. The Pullrite's loss of ground clearance
a potential deal breaker for me...especially in light of my new found
attributes of this Ox system
Just in to peek and not enough time to really noodle this, but am liking it more.
So much more, maybe this instead of a Pullrite...just a maybe till more time
to go through how it works. The Pullrite's loss of ground clearance
a potential deal breaker for me...especially in light of my new found
attributes of this Ox system
Ben,
The Pullrite and the Blue Ox are in two totally different leagues as far as performance. That said there is no "perfect" hitch for every application.
The Pullrite has the most rock solid principal IMHO for trailer towing on the ball offered. It does however have some things that can not make it suitable in all applications. I almost owned one of the 2K Pullrites for my F350. In my case the lack of being able to have a receiver in weight carrying mode above 300# put the deal on hold. Having a 1 ton truck and only being able to haul a trailer with a max of 300# in WC mode was difficult to overcome the way I use the truck.
That said, where it fits the need it is the best option for towing large, long trailers on the ball.
John & Cindy
2005 Ford F350 Super Duty, 4x4; 6.8L V10 with 4.10
CC, SB, Lariat & FX4 package
21,000 GCWR, 11,000 GVWR
Ford Tow Command
1,700# Reese HP hitch & HP Dual Cam
2 1/2" Towbeast Receiver
2004 Sunline Solaris T310SR
(I wish we were camping!)
It had a hitch head that had tilt, trunnion sockets that had a bolt on the bottom I do believe where you could increase the trunnion socket friction and it had different snap up brackets. The spring bars are different in profile.
See here from one of my older pics
![[image]](http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/JBarca/Hitch%20Setup/Hitches%20Explained/BlueOx.jpg)
The bottom of the hitch head
![[image]](http://www.adventurerv.net/images/swayprobolts.jpg)
The top, used and adjusting screw for the tilt system
![[image]](http://www.adventurerv.net/images/swayproscrew.jpg)
The WD bars,
![[image]](http://www.americanrvcompany.com/assets/images/blueox/swayprospringbars.jpg)
It seems the concept of this vintage had some things similar than the new one, but other areas different.
I have tried to find a pic of new or old one installed on a truck. Found one but did not want to link here not knowing the person. I think they are even an RV net member.
Many who have used them state they work well. And not dis-doubting them as their rig may be stable like it should be.
The WD part hands down works. At this point it is not clear the level of how effective is the anti sway portion as compared to other brands in the high friction category.