chevor wrote:
If it wasnt for the $500 price tag. I think I would by one if the price was under 300
If it wasnt for the $500 price tag. I think I would by one if the price was under 300
There is a link to a place online selling it for 389.00 shipped
BenK wrote:
...To me, shackles are for a joint that will be disconnected often enough
to warrant that. In this case, I'd have it bolted in a sandwich of
plates and/or tubes welded onto those plates.
...To me, shackles are for a joint that will be disconnected often enough
to warrant that. In this case, I'd have it bolted in a sandwich of
plates and/or tubes welded onto those plates.
I worked in medium to heavy industry (large electrical and irrigation utility) for over 32 years and never ever saw a factory installation that bolted a chain as you described. The only ways I saw chains being fastened was permanently to a hole using various kinds of split links, two piece links, etc. or by using shackles or hooks.
Bolting a chain down would create additional stress on the connection, how much depending on the angle the chain was being pulled since the chain would be pulling off center from the center of the plate. Also, the spacers and/or tubes you mention would add unnecessary cost to the hitch because of additional materials and labor. Shackles would allow movement that would prevent stressing the connection other than the direct pull. They also allow for easier adjustment of chain length.
I've seen shackles used in similar situations, sometimes temporary, sometimes permanent. A shackle that had an opening closer to the thickness of the plate might have been more appropriate but only if the chain would still fit. It may have been sized as large as it is to assure adequate strength.
Jeannie
years during college
Control/power panels for cranes and the operator cab controllers. Mechanical stuff
was for the motors, gear boxes, brakes and sensors. Gantry, bridge and stationary
cranes and other industrial equipment and systems.
We supplied the controls and power equipment to the manufactures of these large
cranes.
The only chain experience was with the wind-generator construction and maintenance
equipment I designed.
I do not consider this shackle design appropriate for this application. Maybe acceptable
if the shackle pin was safety wired, but still use another method, and
yes, this is NOT a core strength of mine (chains)
Also assumed sized large enough for that loading, but then why did they reduce
it strength with a modification reducing it's cross section?
eyelet to be ground down, polished and re-plated. Cheaper too, IMO
![[image]](http://i00.i.aliimg.com/photo/v0/243696960/Connecting_Links_Twin_Clevis_Link_chain_accessories.jpg)
Now wonder how they fastened the other end of the chain. Hope they
didn't take an eye-bolt, bent the eye open to slip in the chain link
end, re-bend the eye closed...but...from seeing some of the details,
am not going to bet that they didn't do that
BenK wrote:
This is what I'd have used instead of a shackle that needed portions of the
eyelet to be ground down, polished and re-plated. Cheaper too, IMO
Now wonder how they fastened the other end of the chain. Hope they
didn't take an eye-bolt, bent the eye open to slip in the chain link
end, re-bend the eye closed...but...from seeing some of the details,
am not going to bet that they didn't do that
This is what I'd have used instead of a shackle that needed portions of the
eyelet to be ground down, polished and re-plated. Cheaper too, IMO
Now wonder how they fastened the other end of the chain. Hope they
didn't take an eye-bolt, bent the eye open to slip in the chain link
end, re-bend the eye closed...but...from seeing some of the details,
am not going to bet that they didn't do that
Good grief! I seriously doubt if Andersen went to the expense to grind down the shackle (technically, it is called a Crosby clip), polish it, and replat it (more likely, it was done by the clevis manufacturer). There are too many less expensive alternatives out there. Even if they did, one could always retrofit something more suitable. No point in throwing out the baby with the bath water.
Mayhap one of the folks who have already purchased the hitch can tell us how the chain is fastened to the threaded rod at the other end.
* This post was edited 02/24/12 05:53pm by an administrator/moderator *
![[image]](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v210/clanton18T/photo-1.jpg)
Moderator edit to re-size picture to forum limit of 640px maximum width to avoid scrolling.
* This post was edited 02/25/12 08:45am by an administrator/moderator *
What you have in a shipped unit seems different then on the sales literature. Or we could not see it up close enough to tell. Now we can.
Interesting to see the complete setup.
Thanks for sharing Clayton24V
John
John & Cindy
2005 Ford F350 Super Duty, 4x4; 6.8L V10 with 4.10
CC, SB, Lariat & FX4 package
21,000 GCWR, 11,000 GVWR
Ford Tow Command
1,700# Reese HP hitch & HP Dual Cam
2 1/2" Towbeast Receiver
2004 Sunline Solaris T310SR
(I wish we were camping!)
I used Newsomer's last link to buy the Andersen model# 3350 4" drop version for $379. Thanks for that link! I'll be towing my 29' Cougar from Houston to Orlando and back next month . I'll post a report on the hitch when I return. 2000 miles should provide an adequate road test.
Regards
* This post was edited 03/05/12 02:33pm by logistic *
2004 Keystone Cougar 294-RLS (6125 lbs/675 lbs dry)
2011 Ford Expedition EL XLT HD Tow
2012 Ford F150 S-Crew EcoBoost XLT Max Tow