67avion wrote:
Well, if I had had the oem light I would have kept it. I'm surprised. It looks terrific. What is the material in the lamp shade? I presume you will install leds in the existing mounting plate and re-use the shade?
Well, if I had had the oem light I would have kept it. I'm surprised. It looks terrific. What is the material in the lamp shade? I presume you will install leds in the existing mounting plate and re-use the shade?
No, I went with a modern LED lamp. The original cover is real yellow looking plastic. If you want it, you can have it. I also have the bed lamp that I replaced. I am using the LED conversions for the bathroom and the porch light.
A question that I do have. Does your center light have one switched hot wire and one non-swithed hot wire? If I just use the switched hot wire and ground to the camper shell, everything works fine.
Ford F-350 4x4 Diesel
1988 Avion Triple Axle Trailer
1969 Avion C-11 Camper
![[image]](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v426/M2HB/Avion/2012Avion101.jpg)
New style Aluminum to Copper lugged conectors. They aren't cheap, but they seem to work well.
![[image]](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v426/M2HB/Avion/2012Avion103.jpg)
![[image]](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v426/M2HB/Avion/2012Avion102.jpg)
I'm testing the gray water and black water tanks for the last time before I put the fiberglass cover back on.
My Blue Heaven wrote:
That's my recollection the way my (former) 67 C-10 worked.
69 Avion wrote:
Does anyone have their rear switches, over the door, that are set up as "up" for "off" and "down" for "on"? That is the way that mine appear to be and if I want to change them, I will need to notch the curved plastic interior in order to allow it to turn 180 degrees.
Does anyone have their rear switches, over the door, that are set up as "up" for "off" and "down" for "on"? That is the way that mine appear to be and if I want to change them, I will need to notch the curved plastic interior in order to allow it to turn 180 degrees.
That's my recollection the way my (former) 67 C-10 worked.
My C-10 is "up" = "off" too.
As for the light fixture... I used the 110V in the ceiling connected to one of the two switches for a low-profile round Fluorescent light. For the other light (and other switch) I used a modern two light fixture, that I will be putting LED bulbs in soon. My back porch light has constant 12v power, so I had to use a light with it's own switch.
All my light pics are earlier on this thread. See page 20
Hope this helps.
Garry
Garry K
Wife + 4 kids
Retired Military Family.... Alway's on the move....
2002 F350 CCSB 5.4 6spd 4x4 in AK
1966 Avion C-10 Truck Camper
69avion wrote:
I'm testing the gray water and black water tanks for the last time before I put the fiberglass cover back on.
I'm testing the gray water and black water tanks for the last time before I put the fiberglass cover back on.
Could you spell out exactly how you are going about the tests? After your mods I am interested in the results and I think others will be as well.
Thanks - D
67avion wrote:
Could you spell out exactly how you are going about the tests? After your mods I am interested in the results and I think others will be as well.
Thanks - D
69avion wrote:
I'm testing the gray water and black water tanks for the last time before I put the fiberglass cover back on.
I'm testing the gray water and black water tanks for the last time before I put the fiberglass cover back on.
Could you spell out exactly how you are going about the tests? After your mods I am interested in the results and I think others will be as well.
Thanks - D
I plugged the shower drain (with the fitting installed) for the gray water tank and filled the tank up to the lavatory level. I have the lav out, but I can see the water level when it starts to come out of the vent pipe where the sink drain will attach. I put a riser on the vent of the Black Water tank along with a riser on the inlet (where the closet flange will go) and I fill them up. I let them sit for two days to make sure there are no issues. In the last test there were no issues with the tank, but I had a small leak on one of the dump valves that wasn't tightened. Everything now is 100% leak free. I just don't want to have to go back in there once I get the fiberglass cover on.
I'm going to take the fiberglass down this week to get it repaired and painted. Hopefully, I will get it back early next week.
67avion wrote:
Could you spell out exactly how you are going about the tests? After your mods I am interested in the results and I think others will be as well.
Thanks - D
69avion wrote:
I'm testing the gray water and black water tanks for the last time before I put the fiberglass cover back on.
I'm testing the gray water and black water tanks for the last time before I put the fiberglass cover back on.
Could you spell out exactly how you are going about the tests? After your mods I am interested in the results and I think others will be as well.
Thanks - D
Dennis,
Any new progress or news on your TC? I just finally pulled mine off the truck after our vacation. Got some projects to do on it after 1000 miles with the family. Finally got our Engel fridge/freezer (chest style) that I need to re-style the kitchen counter to install. But This should be the final rendition, so I can put an actual counter top in. By using it partially done, we are figuring out what works for our family and what needs to be modified. Seems to be getting better with each trip. It is nice to have a grey water system and water system that works, even if it is not completely finished... ;-)
Hope to hear some more news on your project! :-)
Garry in Kodiak
![[image]](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v426/M2HB/Avion/2012Avion093.jpg)
The folks at Torklift were great and after I send the crooked steps back, they sent me new ones to install. The seem to look a lot better, but I need to get the bumper on the trailer in order to put the steps down to where I can check them out completly. I can't put the bumper back on until the figerglass comes back from repair. There really isn't a lot to do to the fiberglass. It only had a couple of small spots on it that were broke.
I will post pictures of the new steps once I get the fiberglass back on and the bumper reinstalled.
69 Avion wrote:
My Torklift steps were built off by about 1/2". Being off 1/2" in the short width of the steps really bugged me.
The folks at Torklift were great and after I send the crooked steps back, they sent me new ones to install. They seem to look a lot better, but I need to get the bumper on the trailer in order to put the steps down to where I can check them out completly. I can't put the bumper back on until the figerglass comes back from repair. There really isn't a lot to do to the fiberglass. It only had a couple of small spots on it that were broke.
I will post pictures of the new steps once I get the fiberglass back on and the bumper reinstalled.
My Torklift steps were built off by about 1/2". Being off 1/2" in the short width of the steps really bugged me.
The folks at Torklift were great and after I send the crooked steps back, they sent me new ones to install. They seem to look a lot better, but I need to get the bumper on the trailer in order to put the steps down to where I can check them out completly. I can't put the bumper back on until the figerglass comes back from repair. There really isn't a lot to do to the fiberglass. It only had a couple of small spots on it that were broke.
I will post pictures of the new steps once I get the fiberglass back on and the bumper reinstalled.
![[image]](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v426/M2HB/Avion/2012Avion105.jpg)
I also built my black water hose storage area on the bottom of my removable bumper. I figured that I would make it while I was waiting for the fiberglass to be finished.
![[image]](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v426/M2HB/Avion/2012Avion104.jpg)
The bumper is upside down in this picture.