Coast Resorts Open Roads Forum: Avion truck campers

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Topic: Avion truck campers - Hundreds of photos

Posted By: ticki2 on 07/09/12 05:01pm

69 Avion

What keeps your jacks from rotating in the tube ?

'68 Avion C-11
'02 GMC DRW D/A flatbed

Posted By: BlackFlagForge on 07/09/12 05:55pm

They can have a bit of sway from the tube I did notice when I used mine but mostly that much downward force keeps them in place, just make sure the tripod is at a good alignment to keep it from trying to walk lol

Im sure the pipe extension would arrest my bend, Ill be working on that very soon to be sure.

Posted By: 69 Avion on 07/09/12 07:02pm

ticki2 wrote:

69 Avion

What keeps your jacks from rotating in the tube ?

They can't rotate as long as the two left jacks are on the ground. That is what makes the concept of a tripod so good. A tripod will always have a balanced weight. An example would be if you lowered the front left jack (within reason of course), the right jack would rotate slightly, within the tube, to compensate for the balance. This is what keeps the strain from getting to bad on any one jack. A person doesn't need 4 jacks with these heavy duty screws. The mount is the issue. Once that is fixed, they work perfectly. The only thing that I would change is to put a rubber boot (like an old dirt bike for cover)over the screw so that you could lubricate it and it wouldn't get dirty. These are the strongest style of jack that I have ever used, and I've used a lot of them over the years.

Ford F-350 4x4 Diesel
1988 Avion Triple Axle Trailer
1969 Avion C-11 Camper

Posted By: 69 Avion on 07/09/12 07:13pm

BlackFlagForge wrote:

That is clearly the issue. A full length pipe with a full weld will solve that issue. Let me warn you, you will have to space up your camper to clear the side of the truck bed since the other pipes don't go over the truck bed on the left side.

BlackFlagForge, in regards to your frame, you may want to consider buying one 20' stick of 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" x 1/4" angle iron (if you are concerned about strength) for the sides of your frame above your truck bed, and use the 3/16" material for the cross members. On the cross member, right behind the truck bed and under the front of the fiberglass cover (approx. 7' long) use a 1-1/2" x 1-1/2 x 3/16" square tube to allow for the rotational forces of the offset. It won't twist within reason. From there back you could use the angle iron in 3/16" thickness and it won't get in the way of your plumbing. Keep in mind, the bed of your truck is part of the structure of your camper, so the frame under there really doesn't do much. When your camper is off the truck bed, that frame will make much more of a difference.
I have built a lot of equipment trailers in the last 37 years and that would be plenty to solve your concerns. I really don't think that it is necessary unless you are going to do some serious use, especially when it is off the truck.

Posted By: 69 Avion on 07/09/12 07:19pm

BlackFlagForge, if you really want to make your campers strong, you could wrap the 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" x 3/16" angle iron around your camper wings and front (if it will still clear your fender wells with the added 3/8" width) and either offset it down, in the back, or weld the 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" x 3/16" square tube under the frame ( inside the front of the fiberglass cover) and you can keep your camper real low. It won't help you with your jack mount clearance if you decide to strengthen it, which it needs.

Posted By: BlackFlagForge on 07/09/12 07:32pm

The plumbing from factory fits in the current sketch frame I don't foresee any trouble getting new pipes to fit, the only mod I will need to make is the cutouts in the fiberglass cover where the runners enter. Another reason I wanted the full length frame was for when the camper is not in use I want that weight spread out nice and even, might not need it but makes me feel better hahah

Posted By: ticki2 on 07/09/12 07:36pm

69 Avion wrote:

ticki2 wrote:

69 Avion

What keeps your jacks from rotating in the tube ?

I am afraid I don't share your enthusiasm for the three jack system . My camper came with three jacks so had a chance to use it that way . After adding the forth jack the stability improved significantly . I am not questioning the strength of your jacks , they look plenty stout . My Boch/rieco jacks are rated at 2000# each so even with three they can hold more than twice the weight of the camper . The jacks are not the concern , the connection to the camper is . If I am reading the photos correctly they not only swivel front to back but also left to right . If it were hit by a good gust of wind or bumped by something it would fold over like dominos . The only thing holding the jacks vertical are the tripod bases . I would have used square tubes to add rigidity to the connection . This is just my 2 cents and as we know that's not worth too much these days .

Posted By: 69 Avion on 07/09/12 07:51pm

On the La Jaqa jacks, if someone wanted to put limiters on the lateral movement of the jack mount, it wouldn't be hard to do. These jacks weren't meant to store the camper on, they were meant to lift it and then lower it onto a base of some type. I stored my camper for close to 30 years on the jacks and a trailer type base. It was hit with a micro burst of well over 100 mph winds and it did just fine. I wouldn't trust these jacks to leave them alone with no other support, but that isn't what they were designed for.

[image]

Posted By: 69 Avion on 07/09/12 08:01pm

We did make a lot of progress today on the camper. The upholstery shop just got all of the material in and they are starting to make the cushions. They will be blue and gray.

Base under dinette.
[image]

Refinished cabinets with refrigerator in. It sticks out 2" more than the original and you won't be able to open the door up all the way, but it is much larger than the original, and it fit through the door (LOL).
[image]

Water tank area. I reinforces the old wing area where the factory gouged out the wing for the copper water line. The manufacturer of my gray water tank made a stainless steel angle brace for this area and 3 straps for my water tank for $30. I'm happy. My new tank fits great and is 40 gallons.
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I still have a little work before the new counter top in attached.
[image]

Posted By: 69 Avion on 07/09/12 09:53pm

BlackFlagForge wrote:

If you put a gray water tank in (has been required since 1974) and you want to hook up all of your gray water piping to the gray water tank, I think you may have a problem. I just got done doing it and by the time you tie in the shower, lav, and kitchen sink, you don't have a lot of room. You can still do your frame, you just need to work it around the perimeter. If you used the gray water tank as part of your structure it would be even easier.

Good luck, I can't wait to see what you end up with.

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