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Topic: Avion truck campers - Hundreds of photos

Posted By: ticki2 on 10/13/16 10:30am

I found elevator bolts at my local hardware . If or when I do it again I would use ss carriage bolts with a 1/8" ss steel plate covering all 4 bolts to give it more bearing .


'68 Avion C-11
'02 GMC DRW D/A flatbed


Posted By: krustydog on 10/15/16 05:00pm

Slow progress the past few days. With cooler temps, the poly wood sealant took a lot longer to dry between coats. The wing pieces are ready to go, the front part of the box needs a couple more coats. The 1/4 round was damaged from the jack mounts having only rotted wood for support. On the left side, I just moved the whole thing forward about 12" as it was too long anyways and would have cut the rear off. One of the more straight forward bits to fix.

[image]

For some reason I assumed the bottom channel was a simple 'u' and then a separate piece for the 1/4 round. Turns out it is all one extruded piece.


Posted By: krustydog on 10/15/16 05:06pm

Today was spent brewing beer to keep the stockpile up and getting the first parts of replacement wood installed.

[image]

Good news is that it fit thankfully. Tomorrow will do the other side weather permitting. Also can start on the floor. This Ultra had 3 jacks. Where the right side was will need some work on the 1/4 round as well. It is less damaged but I plan to take it out to work on it over a form of sorts to get it all aligned before I rivet it back on.

The PO really cut up the jack mounts and I might as well make new ones. Any consideration to using 1/4 x 6" aluminum instead of steel? Weight would be 1/3 of steel and plan to go with all 4 corners.


Posted By: D1trout on 10/15/16 06:04pm

Krustydog, elevator bolts are significantly less strong than carriage bolts. If you want a bolt that gives a low profile head and retains good strength in critical applications, consider step bolts. They are available from Fastenal or Bolt Depot among other places. I would not attach jack plates with elevator bolts. Just my 2 cents, as they say...
Dick


Posted By: D1trout on 10/15/16 06:13pm

Rereading your last post, I have 4 custom made jack plates of 3/8" aluminum plate, drilled for the standard Rieco Titan jacks. They are 12" horizontal by 7" vertical by 6" wide. My guy fabricated them for me before I decided to mount Argo permanently onto the Big Bad Truck. I will sell cheap. PM me if you're interested. I can send pics.
Dick


Posted By: garryk6 on 10/16/16 12:49am

Krustydog, was curious about your possible change of COG and how it may affect jack placement and weight distribution.

I just pulled my Avion back off the truck today. Will be getting the studded tires mounted tomorrow on the 19.5's. The next project is getting my Atwood 12000 btu furnace mounted in the closet to get ready for our Thanksgiving trip around Alaska.

I'll try to get some measurements from the areas I need patches for. Where are you all sourcing your solid core rivets? And are you hand riveting? Or air riveting etc?
Thanks! Garry


Garry K
Wife + 4 kids
Retired Military Family.... Alway's on the move....
2002 F350 CCSB 5.4 6spd 4x4 in AK
1966 Avion C-10 Truck Camper



Posted By: krustydog on 10/16/16 07:00am

Dick: sent you an email.

Garry: I ordered my riveting supplies from VTS. Did not find them overly helpful. Went with modified Brazier 5/32 and 1/2" long so I could cut them to the various lengths I needed. Used the air riveter and it makes quick work. Just make sure your helper understands what perpendicular means! My neighbor helped for some and he is generally a bull in a china shop. Once he got the concept of perpendicular for the back of the rivets they went in better. Either way riveting is probably the fastest thing you would do on such a project!


Posted By: D1trout on 10/16/16 10:08am

Garry, I have been doing business with Hanson Rivet in southern CA. They have an astonishing variety of rivets and their service and prices have been excellent. Ck them out at www.hansonrivet.com.

I'll look forward to your measurements.
Dick


Posted By: D1trout on 10/16/16 10:49am

67 and others, having finally mounted Argo permanently on the BBTruck (wooohooo! Pics soon), it now appears that to get anything approximating a uniform finish, I'll need to refinish the exterior of Argo. There seem to be three choices: polish bright, vinyl wrap, or paint with an automotive finish. We've seen the polish program in action. It's labor intensive as the anodizing has to be stripped completely off using harsh chemicals. It's not a job I would undertake on my own. To maintain the finish in that bright state, it then needs to be repolished annually or clearcoated. Price seems to be about $3500 for just the initial polishing.
Vinyl wrap is an interesting idea because of the many colors and personalized patterns and because it would seem to add an additional layer of waterproofing. However, it now appears to be impractical because of the many many rivets. I've been told that they would make a good attachment of the vinyl unlikely.
This leaves automotive painting. The body shop across the street from my boatyard workplace described the process to me Friday as first, scuff the entire surface with a moderate scotchbrite-type pad and Alumabrite. Then prime with a two part epoxy primer and follow with the automotive finish of your choice. His view was that the epoxy primer would help seal the skin and provide an excellent base for a long-lasting paint job. This prices out at slightly under $3000. I'm now planning to paint.
Color? Silver would be archetypal. White would match the truck. I'd be interested in my fellow Avionistas' thoughts...
Onward!
Dick


Posted By: 69cayo on 10/16/16 05:04pm

I think white would be a good choice then break it up a bit with a stripe or graphic down the side.


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