Coast Resorts Open Roads Forum: Avion truck campers

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Topic: Avion truck campers - Hundreds of photos

Posted By: garryk6 on 10/08/16 11:50pm

D1trout wrote:

Garryk6, I have both old skin and new anodized skin pieces that I'd be glad to send you. It doesn't take much to cover the vent hole. How much and which finish would suit you?
Dick

Today I picked up a 1968 hot water heater from a travel trailer for $25 over here in Anchorage. I am looking for original anodized to blend in with what I have. I'll need a small piece too for filling in around the hot water heater.

Garry

Garry K
Wife + 4 kids
Retired Military Family.... Alway's on the move....
2002 F350 CCSB 5.4 6spd 4x4 in AK
1966 Avion C-10 Truck Camper

Posted By: D1trout on 10/09/16 12:11pm

Garry, give me some dimensions and I'll look thru my old anodized scraps for something that will fit. I can send you a pic so you can decide if ithe finish is suitable.
Dick

Posted By: krustydog on 10/09/16 05:10pm

c11motorhome: I think you will find the strength of 2 x 3/4 ply is by far stronger than a foam core. Simple engineering.

Dick: good info on the epoxy. It is some serious toxic stuff to apply so I am TBD on it.

Since it is our national turkey weekend, getting an extra set of hands is a challenge when needed.

Got the back on attached with clecos. Not sure how one could survive a job like this without clecos! This whole project is a bit of a gamble as I did not know how it would reattach. Since the floor is not level or solid, it took a bit of effort to move the edges to the correct position before drilling. A big sigh of relief when it was finally lined up correctly. Riveting starts tomorrow.

Introducing the "C9 Ultra".....

[image]

Posted By: 69cayo on 10/09/16 05:24pm

Quote:

and if anyone wants to weigh in as to why 3/4"-3/4" plywood seems to be favoured over the original 3/8"-foam-3/8" original composite I would be most appreciative.

happy canadian thanksgiving!

I did the ply/foam composite when I rebuilt mine and the panels, floor and wings come out very lite for there size.
That said I would not do it again, there will be leaks and they'll probably go on for some time before being detected.
My fear is the water finding it's way into the composite where it will soak the foam, the wings being the worst because the bottoms are covered with aluminum and the tops have the walls screwed into them.

Hope that helps

Posted By: D1trout on 10/09/16 06:02pm

Krustydog, CPES does require prudent handling, but it is a such a superior product that it's worth taking the appropriate safety precautions - good ventilation, protective clothing, respirator, etc. Once the epoxy has set up, there is no telltale odor, just that comforting saturated gloss...
If I were doing a rebuild using plywood, every single piece I installed would be thoroughly treated with CPES ahead of time. Some of my cabinet trim will be hardwood. It will be coated. I'm considering with the idea of replacing the inner liner of Argo not with an aluminum skin but in a cherry or fir veneer on a poly backing. I have treated some samples with CPES and am quite pleased with the results.
More will be revealed!
Dick
Oh, and by the way, I like the way the Ultra is shaping up!

Posted By: c11motorhome on 10/10/16 07:16am

thanks for the replies.

69cayo, thanks for your input, it seems the votes are overwhelmingly for plywood only composite despite weight difference.

work resumes tomorrow...today is for turkey and pie...and more pie

Posted By: cajunavion on 10/10/16 12:57pm

Howdy!
1/2 marine plywood + 3/4 marine plywood + west epoxy = happy Avion camper.

Posted By: krustydog on 10/11/16 05:22pm

Quick update: got over half of the rear butt module riveted today. Did 1/4 then inspected it a lot to make sure I liked it, then did another 1/3 and will finish up tomorrow. Also started cutting ply for the "foundation". I have minimal metal working skills but should go quick on the plywood task. Was pleased the riveting was easy. Once the new wood is in, I feel like it will be all downhill [emoticon]

Oh also picked up a small Boggs shear so I can start cutting the patches I need.

Posted By: c11motorhome on 10/12/16 06:32pm

Back up the ladder today. Patching and parbond was my day. Just have to seal around the clearance lights fore and aft and then I will be able to tell if the roof is leaking. Everything else should be watertight now. I did see a silicone lake around the rooftop tv antenna today..yay. Rain for the next couple days so fingers crossed. We have decided to keep the dents in the shell...I want a functional camper next year, and I think they add character. (Or that's what i'm telling myself in the name of keeping cost down and speed up)

Have to figure out what to reinsulate the original water heater with. The original insulation was a wet mouse home and has been discarded.

Tomorrow we hope to wrestle out the fridge and stove/oven and drop the starboard bustle, probably have to remove the generator box to remove the port side also.

Should have floor repaired and shell watertight before winter so can then move inside to work. Maybe do the kitchen wing first to get the gaping holes in the side covered before winter really hits.

Posted By: krustydog on 10/13/16 09:44am

A few more rivets to go today when help arrives and then onto the patching for the metalwork.

Thankfully can multitask and get some of the plywood rebuilt. 2 x 3/4 doug fir throughout. My wings and floor in the Ultra were both 1.5" thick. The sides between the floor and the wing were 5/8" and I will make that 1.5" as well for strength.

Here is wing #1.

[image]

I think it was SilverP who used a 12" radius for the corner, I could be wrong, so I started with that on a test piece and had to use a 14.5" radius in the end for it to work. The wood was too rotted for me to make a pattern with on both sides at that area. With the planer and belt sander it only took about 15 mins a side for the roundover on the edge.

Anyone know where I can source 1/2" elevator bolts for the jack mounts? Once the wings are in and secured I want to reattach the jacks to lift it up when the floor is ready to be replaced. I guess I could just use regular 1/2" bolts for now with some support at the head while I am waiting to find elevator bolts.

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