Coast Resorts Open Roads Forum: Avion truck campers

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Topic: Avion truck campers - Hundreds of photos

Posted By: ticki2 on 01/28/16 06:22am

garryk6 wrote:

Has anyone identified a source of a replacement front window in the cabover?
Thanks, Garry

Are you looking for a direct replacement or just something that will fit ? Why are do you want to replace , is it damaged ?

'68 Avion C-11
'02 GMC DRW D/A flatbed

Posted By: garryk6 on 01/28/16 08:02am

I am tired of fighting leaks. I have sealed it off and I still have leaks... I am open to any options. Kodiak is so wet, and most trips end up with torrential rain on the mainland, that I have even considered deleting the window. Anyway, just looking for options.
Thanks!
Garry

Garry K
Wife + 4 kids
Retired Military Family.... Alway's on the move....
2002 F350 CCSB 5.4 6spd 4x4 in AK
1966 Avion C-10 Truck Camper

Posted By: D1trout on 01/28/16 09:01am

Garry, I have done business with Pelland Enterprises around parts for Hehr Windows and found them to be prompt, efficient and well-stocked. They say they can provide any Hehr window...
Ck it out: www.pellandent.com. Alternatively, I bought a big sliding window for the front of Argo from eBay before I turned him into a class C. It was adequate but certainly not OEM quality. There is an outfit near me in northern CA: www.all-rite.com that seems very competent on the phone. They also seem pricey. The source of last resort would be Chuck Cayo himself. He has been very willing to talk about Avion and Cayo issues: 269-463-5068. I was able to buy some curved aluminum extrusions from him. He might have windows...
Good hunting!

Posted By: ticki2 on 01/28/16 11:12am

Garry

When I removed my side windows to replace the discolored plexi I found the original foam sealant between the frame and skin did not seal adequately . From some paper work I found it seems the original owner had the problem from day one . I found one rivet under the window frame that would not let it lie flat to the skin and ground it down flat , but I don't think that was the whole problem . When reinstalled I used Vulcum caulk instead of the foam tape . I think it fills in better on the uneven surfaces , especially on the front window where you have overlapping panels . If the window is in otherwise good condition I would try removing and reinstalling with some good caulking . Another area of concern is the top rubber seal . They tend to shrink and if they don't overlap the window sash they will leak . These can be replaced without removing the window .

Posted By: 67avion on 01/28/16 02:56pm

Garry, I think those are good suggestions to resolve the window issue. My front window was broken in my latest crash and I had Chuck Cayo replace it. I didn't ask where the glass etc came from, but the job looked like it was relatively simple and inexpensive. Give him a ring as Trout suggested and I think he'll have some good advice.

Posted By: SilverPompadour on 01/29/16 04:59am

That Hepvo valve is slick, thanks. Im going to see if I cant shoe horn one in on the shower drain. There is enough room for a conventional trap under the sink. Im also going to plumb in a cold water spigot on the bathroom wall near the Curve so I can fill the flush tank with the toilet in place. Too bad the Curve has to be removed to drain.
Im really surprised that none of the larger fresh or grey holding tanks commonly available have baffles in them. Seems like a good idea.

1968 Avion C-11
1993 Dodge D250 LE Cummins

Posted By: D1trout on 01/30/16 09:50am

Silver, I'm planning to put one Hepvo at the point where the combined pipes from sink and shower enter the graywater tank. I have also eliminated the vent - one less roof penetration. It's my goal to run only the solar panel wire through the roof.

The Argo project lurches along. I have completed the mock-up for the side storage units, the areas under the wings. I cut 1.5"x1.5" strips of rigid foam and using hot glue and tape, devised a layout that works pretty well. The CAD guy is drawing up the plans for Gary, the fabricator, to work from. I am thinking to attach the outer skin to these frames with 3M VHB tape, a double-sided, industrial strength adhesive and sealant tape that is being used by truck, trailer and RV manufacturers. It will reduce the number of rivets, which is probably a good thing. If the outside skin goes on easily, I'm thinking to use the tape to apply a new inner skin. I'm ditching the old vinyl covered inner skin. It would be a very clean installation without the hundreds of rivets.
The revelation in doing the mock up was that following the curve of the camper - reflected in the way the sides angle in at the rear of the camper - results in a very clean design. Note: I haven't added the frames for the curved fronts of the side units but they will be there in the final product. Plus doors configured in a manner still to be determined:

The lower half of the forward compartments will have plastic water tanks, one on each side of about 30 gallons each, keeping the weight low and centered on the chassis.

While the frames are being built, I'm going to go thru all the wiring I've installed inside Argo to prepare for installing the inner skin.

Desperately hoping to be roadworthy by summer...

Posted By: Dave Pete on 01/30/16 09:57am

D1, if your floor plan, etc. allows for it, you might consider running your solar rooftop wiring out through the refrigerator vent and some kind of adhesive to secure it over to the panel. That's what I plan if and when I install solar in Lil' Queeny. You might avoid another rooftop hole that way.

Posted By: 69 Avion on 01/30/16 05:05pm

Silver, very nice job. You are making remarkable progress.

I noticed the type of fill hose that you are using on your 40 gallon potable water tank. I had a similar type of fill hose and I couldn't get it to seal properly. I had to remove the entire kitchen cabinet to change it. I just want to warn you before you reinstall everything. Your hose may not give you the same problems mine did, but just in case, I wanted to warn you of the issue I had. I used some hose from Home Depot, of all places, that actually worked quite well.

Page 67 and 69 shows the difference.

Ford F-350 4x4 Diesel
1988 Avion Triple Axle Trailer
1969 Avion C-11 Camper

Posted By: Teacher's Pet on 01/30/16 05:56pm

I had the same problem with the fill hose on our B+ when we bought it. Changed it out for a new hose with about a 4" smooth section for every 8" of corrugated, worked great, no leaks.

'06 Phaeton 40' QSH
'14 Ford Flex SEL AWD Toad
'04 R-Vision Trail-Lite 213
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