How thick is our walls? The reason I ask, is that my front window still leaks and leaks in Alaska stink.... I am researching options to replace with a newer style that won't leak in Alaska winds and rain. So I have aC10, but I believe that the C11 should be e same.
Thanks!
Garry
Garry K
Wife + 4 kids
Retired Military Family.... Alway's on the move....
2002 F350 CCSB 5.4 6spd 4x4 in AK
1966 Avion C-10 Truck Camper
Have you been able to trace were the leak is coming from ? It might just be a matter of removing and reinstalling with fresh caulking . I didn't have a problem with the front window , and have driven through some heavy rains .
The two areas I would look at is the top seal/flap , make sure is covers the ends of the sash and hasn't shrunk . The other is the bottom seal for the same reason .
'68 Avion C-11
'02 GMC DRW D/A flatbed
I too have thought about upgrading the windows but concluded that the period camper look is important enough to me to really work on getting a good seal. To that end, below is a link to a butyl tape used in marine applications to seal joints and bed hardware on deck. I have found it to be so superior to anything else on the market that you may wish to check it out. I bought some "RV bedding tape" a few years ago to bed some deck hardware on my sailboat. After discovering this butyl tape, I removed and rebedded the same hardware. There's no comparison in the products. I'm using this butyl tape around all the windows and the door, along the joints where the main panels meet the edge molding, between the tread plate on the bottom of the camper and the bottom of the aluminum frame. I'll probably find other places as I go along. The guy who developed this tape is a very thoughtful and sensible fellow who calls himself "Maine Sail". You can read his posts and see his excellent videos, many of which are entirely appropriate to truck camper work, from the "Compass Marine How To" articles at the top of this page.
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape
BTW, I've never met this guy and have no connection with him or his business other than to admire the way he thinks through and executes his projects. And documents them really well!
Cheers!
Dick
Okay now to get all this stuff in under the kitchen sink!
I know dimensionally it all fits, but future access
is the deal breaker.
![[image]](http://s1014.photobucket.com/user/cajunavion/media/0C2CD6BD-338E-455F-AFCA-96A46B279ED7_zpsflqxt0wn.jpg.html)
67avion wrote:
Don't mean to blow my own horn.....but we made the TCM calendar for the year. Probably the first Avion C-10 on a calendar in many a moon!
http://www.truckcampermagazine.com/campe........announcing-the-2015-tcm-calendar-winners
Don't mean to blow my own horn.....but we made the TCM calendar for the year. Probably the first Avion C-10 on a calendar in many a moon!
http://www.truckcampermagazine.com/campe........announcing-the-2015-tcm-calendar-winners
Congratulations on the picture in TCM. That was an awesome view. You are probably the first C-10 in TCM.
Ford F-350 4x4 Diesel
1988 Avion Triple Axle Trailer
1969 Avion C-11 Camper
![[image]](http://s1014.photobucket.com/user/cajunavion/media/05B572E5-C826-4250-AE0F-9FF868DB3CFF_zpsh0ispljg.jpg.html)
![[image]](http://s1014.photobucket.com/user/cajunavion/media/D02F238B-0068-4C93-8751-05B4C3C68A9F_zpsam5ubkqw.jpg.html)
![[image]](http://s1014.photobucket.com/user/cajunavion/media/3E887D9B-EEC2-4FD9-9053-F8F5B9BD368F_zpsalmsbdyh.jpg.html)
First up is to get the hot water heater installed
an running. Anyone have ideas on conviently
installing a valve manifold?
ticki2 wrote:
Thought I'd add an addendum to my recent repair . In the process of the front end repair I also rebuilt the two large side windows . This info is mostly for the 68 and newer Avion/Cayo with plexiglass . The two large side windows have been foggy since purchase and a thorn in my side . Since it was in the shop for other repairs it seemed like the logical time to address the issue . Unfortunately I didn't take a lot of photos of this phase .
Removal is pretty straight forward , remove the curtain and track , remove the interior trim and handles , drill out the exterior rivets and remove the window with frame .
Once the widow is out you can separate the lower movable window from the upper fixed pane . By taking the lower frame apart and removing the hinge screws you can remove the lower operating window . Note : once the window is out it is obvious how the frame comes apart by removing the corner screws .
I discovered this in the process . At the top of the hinge the top channel for the plexiglass extends about 1/32 past the vertical channel on both side . This little extension prevents removal of the lower operating sash without removing the entire window ( rivets ). By removing this extension the sash can be removed with the window frame in place by simply removing the hinge screws .
![[image]](http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv151/ticki2/avion%20panels/avionpanels039_zpsa3b15757.jpg)
![[image]](http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv151/ticki2/avion%20panels/avionpanels040_zpsd0eb02f2.jpg)
![[image]](http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv151/ticki2/avion%20panels/avionpanels041_zps2fa182a0.jpg)
![[image]](http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv151/ticki2/avion%20panels/avionpanels042_zpsdf2e8f89.jpg)
In searching for plexiglass at the local glass shops I found out a few things . First the color is bronze 2412 , which is medium . Most places only dealt with light or dark . Second what is referred to as 1/8" is no longer .125 but rather .118 . This actually worked in my favor as the rubber glazing channel I found was thicker than original .
I used a block of wood to gently tap on the channel to remove the plexiglass . Be gentle , it's easy to bend the extrusion . When everything was apart I did a thorough cleaning . Important , mark and number all the parts as you disassemble as to location and orientation it's easy to get confused .
I used a circular saw with a fine tooth carbide blade to cut the plxiglass which worked great , then touched up the edges with some sandpaper .
The rubber seals and channels were difficult to find in the correct size . I never did find the correct size that would fit the original .125 plexiglass . I sent for samples from All-Rite Manufacturing , Vintage Trailer Supply and Pelland Enterprises . The only ones that fit were from Pelland . Interestingly , the numbers on their site didn't match the numbers on the invoice , but the actual parts were the same.
Here is a list:
Upper fixed window channel H110-613 ( web )=H009-502-19 inv
Lower oper window channel H210-437 ( web ) = H109-326-19 inv
Vent closing seal H210-390-2 ( web )= H009-289-19 inv
Assembling I used liberal amounts of soapy water on the extrusion and rubber channel and my trusty wood block , it's a tight fit .
After the windows were assembled I used the tempro 635 caulking and Olympic rivets to install .
![[image]](http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv151/ticki2/avion%20panels/avionpanels066_zpsd95c45a4.jpg)
![[image]](http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv151/ticki2/avion%20panels/avionpanels064_zpsb69e2238.jpg)
![[image]](http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv151/ticki2/avion%20panels/avionpanels067_zps868875c5.jpg)
Hope this makes some sense .
Thought I'd add an addendum to my recent repair . In the process of the front end repair I also rebuilt the two large side windows . This info is mostly for the 68 and newer Avion/Cayo with plexiglass . The two large side windows have been foggy since purchase and a thorn in my side . Since it was in the shop for other repairs it seemed like the logical time to address the issue . Unfortunately I didn't take a lot of photos of this phase .
Removal is pretty straight forward , remove the curtain and track , remove the interior trim and handles , drill out the exterior rivets and remove the window with frame .
Once the widow is out you can separate the lower movable window from the upper fixed pane . By taking the lower frame apart and removing the hinge screws you can remove the lower operating window . Note : once the window is out it is obvious how the frame comes apart by removing the corner screws .
I discovered this in the process . At the top of the hinge the top channel for the plexiglass extends about 1/32 past the vertical channel on both side . This little extension prevents removal of the lower operating sash without removing the entire window ( rivets ). By removing this extension the sash can be removed with the window frame in place by simply removing the hinge screws .
In searching for plexiglass at the local glass shops I found out a few things . First the color is bronze 2412 , which is medium . Most places only dealt with light or dark . Second what is referred to as 1/8" is no longer .125 but rather .118 . This actually worked in my favor as the rubber glazing channel I found was thicker than original .
I used a block of wood to gently tap on the channel to remove the plexiglass . Be gentle , it's easy to bend the extrusion . When everything was apart I did a thorough cleaning . Important , mark and number all the parts as you disassemble as to location and orientation it's easy to get confused .
I used a circular saw with a fine tooth carbide blade to cut the plxiglass which worked great , then touched up the edges with some sandpaper .
The rubber seals and channels were difficult to find in the correct size . I never did find the correct size that would fit the original .125 plexiglass . I sent for samples from All-Rite Manufacturing , Vintage Trailer Supply and Pelland Enterprises . The only ones that fit were from Pelland . Interestingly , the numbers on their site didn't match the numbers on the invoice , but the actual parts were the same.
Here is a list:
Upper fixed window channel H110-613 ( web )=H009-502-19 inv
Lower oper window channel H210-437 ( web ) = H109-326-19 inv
Vent closing seal H210-390-2 ( web )= H009-289-19 inv
Assembling I used liberal amounts of soapy water on the extrusion and rubber channel and my trusty wood block , it's a tight fit .
After the windows were assembled I used the tempro 635 caulking and Olympic rivets to install .
Hope this makes some sense .
Ticki2,
What size rivets did your windows have? What size drill did you use for removing them?
Did you use the Olympic Rivet shaving tool and did it have clearance to work properly?
Thanks,
69 Avion wrote:
What size rivets did your windows have? What size drill did you use for removing them?
Did you use the Olympic Rivet shaving tool and did it have clearance to work properly?
Thanks,
What size rivets did your windows have? What size drill did you use for removing them?
Did you use the Olympic Rivet shaving tool and did it have clearance to work properly?
Thanks,
Good questions , I should have mentioned that . The blind rivet removal tool came from Airraft Tool Supply Co. #1341s which has a knurled tip to prevent the head from spinning . I have never used one before so cannot compare to the to the smooth tip that VTS carries . The shaver , olympic rivets , interior rivets , clecos , cleco plier and trempro 635 came from Vintage trailer supply .
The exterior rivets were 5/32" and the interior were 1/8" , drill size is #21 and #30 respectively .
There is a clearance issue on the exterior bottom of the windows because of the sill . The window also has to be open so it's not in the way .For removal I started all the rivets with the remover until it bottomed out , then removed the tip and finished them off .
The shaver has a cone shape tip . I filed down one side flat so it would fit under the sill . I'll see if I an get a picture later .
What sealer did you use for the joints where you had blue masking tape around the window and on the front cabover edge?