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| Topic: Avion truck campers - Hundreds of photos |
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Posted By: 69cayo
on 06/02/14 06:40am
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I got to the point that if I wanted to build a better mousetrap I should start from scratch. Using less rivets to secure the luan will also weaken the "bond" to the ribs. Keep in mind that the shell does twist and move if nothing else through expansion and contraction and now your installing a different material that expands and contracts at a different rate. Your cabinets and walls will have to be fastened to something solid so you'll have to install more wood bracing for that. Dennis |
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Posted By: 67avion
on 06/02/14 07:32am
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X2. The jostling of a riveted truck camper inevitably introduces gaps and leaks that have to be policed. Sealing them from the inside is probably helpful in the short term, but dubious over time. As to the ribs, in my coach they were screwed into, not riveted. I presume the plan is to somehow create a foam insulation barrier then attach a heat barrier to the ribs and then skin the interior including the compound complex curves at the front and back. 69cayo has gone down some of that road. You may want to solicit his advice. But, I personally would eschew Luan. It's a soft material that melts in a morning shower, much less in intense exposure to leaks.
* This post was edited 06/02/14 07:40am by 67avion *
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Posted By: Desertboy
on 06/02/14 08:24am
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For no more good than it will do to keep a camper cooler, I personally wouldn't want to drill that many holes in my frame if I could avoid it. Is there a paint or coating that you could use to coat the ribs to stop heat transfer if that's what he is trying to accomplish. I know they make a flat wide foam weather stripping with adhesive on one side that you could use. Once you attach the inner skin how can it move anywhere? That's what I would do if I were worried about it.
1969 AVION 3/4 12 VALVE Freightliner/24' Flatbed 50,000 miles/ Titan 4000 receiver Hitch, no Mods needed. |
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Posted By: Michael 111
on 06/02/14 09:47am
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Desertboy wrote: For no more good than it will do to keep a camper cooler, I personally wouldn't want to drill that many holes in my frame if I could avoid it. Is there a paint or coating that you could use to coat the ribs to stop heat transfer if that's what he is trying to accomplish. I know they make a flat wide foam weather stripping with adhesive on one side that you could use. Once you attach the inner skin how can it move anywhere? That's what I would do if I were worried about it. The "Swiss Cheese" issue is a concern to me , that's why i am toying with the luan strip,i will probably seal the luan with CPES from the rotdoctor.com, this would give me the option to attach the inner skin to the overhang and not to the ribs themselves. so just a few rivets in the ribs.This should also allow for the flexing of the inner skin. Planed test drive end of July Just thoughts at this point....the nice thing is I can always change my mind. here is a thought that might work as well .....i know..... don't use Silicone But you i could use Platinum Cured Silicone - that has nothing to do with the caulking you get at the hardware store. I could poor a strip, 1-1/2 inch wide by 8 feel, long out of a variety that has the consistency of think the bottom of your tennis shoes This type of silicone has great heat insulation, you can buy oven mitts made out of this. but then i am facing still the many new holes in the ribs more to ponder |
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Posted By: D1trout
on 06/02/14 11:30am
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Quote: For no more good than it will do to keep a camper cooler, I personally wouldn't want to drill that many holes in my frame if I could avoid it. Is there a paint or coating that you could use to coat the ribs to stop heat transfer if that's what he is trying to accomplish. I know they make a flat wide foam weather stripping with adhesive on one side that you could use. Once you attach the inner skin how can it move anywhere? That's what I would do if I were worried about it. The "Swiss Cheese" issue is a concern to me , that's why i am toying with the luan strip,i will probably seal the luan with CPES from the rotdoctor.com, this would give me the option to attach the inner skin to the overhang and not to the ribs themselves. so just a few rivets in the ribs.This should also allow for the flexing of the inner skin. Planed test drive end of July Just thoughts at this point....the nice thing is I can always change my mind. here is a thought that might work as well .....i know..... don't use Silicone But you i could use Platinum Cured Silicone - that has nothing to do with the caulking you get at the hardware store. I could poor a strip, 1-1/2 inch wide by 8 feel, long out of a variety that has the consistency of think the bottom of your tennis shoes This type of silicone has great heat insulation, you can buy oven mitts made out of this. but then i am facing still the many new holes in the ribs more to ponder Michael, I'd seriously reconsider Luan. I share 67's view that it's a pretty cheesy product and poorly suited to this use. It will not hold up to moisture. If wood is your interior finish of choice, consider a thin marine grade teak ply - it's expensive(compared to Luan), but well-suited to the environment and available in a variety of thicknesses. I admire and applaud your desire to insulate the ribs. Let me again suggest you consider the sealing tape that is commonly used to bed hatches, doors and other joints in RVs. It can be stuck to any surface, requires no extra holes to be drilled, must have a higher R value than Luan strips, and as a bonus, will seal fasteners driven thru it... Dick |
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Posted By: D1trout
on 06/02/14 11:44am
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Cajunavion wrote: My other problem is I can not seem to visualize how to get a 41 inch wide dinette bed, across the full 8ft width of the camper. 3/4 plywood is HEAVY and any thing less is bowable. So I need a 41x41 piece of something to serve as kitchen table and lower bed that one person can easily move into position. Maybe making removable leaves. I dont know. Most layouts I have seen either have a small side table or the benches come in to the center isle a bit. I really want to seat on the wings as is and have Cajun, as you may recall, I'm doing an east-west dinette that converts to a single bed so the dogs can lie at window height and commune with us thru the rear truck sliding window as we drive along... I am thinking to use the Lagun table system - I think you pointed it out to us - and a composite table top, the same material I'm using for cabs and counters and bulkheads. Here's the website for that composite: www.productsignsupplies.com. Look for "aluminum composite boards". This material is likely available from a wholesaler near you. It's sign stock: thin aluminum sheets laminated over a polyethylene core and it comes in various thicknesses. I'd suggest you consider having a 1" square aluminum tubing frame welded and then fasten whatever surfaces you wish onto it. It sounds as if my table will considerably smaller than your's: something like 28" wide by 32" deep. Dick |
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Posted By: D1trout
on 06/02/14 12:12pm
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Tonyj54 wrote: Which brings up a question. A possible opportunity has arisen, and I need advice/opinions. What would you guys think of putting a C-10 on the back of a diesel dually set up as a service truck, complete with side-boxes? I'm thinking I could move my gunsmithing gear out of the small trailer, and into the boxes. I'd have to figure out how/where to mount a gun vice, and a couple of other things, obviously, but I think it might work, IF the rig can be pulled together at all. Would it be too top-heavy or tippy? Would the height of the rig make it too susceptible to acting as a sail? Would the height make it too much of a low-bridge risk. I know I'll have to do a lot of measuring, just wanted to get some background expertise to get the idea moving. Tony, I too have thought about a utility truck bed as a base for my C11. Our campers are woefully deficient in storage! In doing the homework on that notion, I found that utility beds come in a great many sizes and shapes. There are models that are no higher that the bottom of the rear window of the truck and that, it seems to me, is the model to use. It would keep the camper load in the same relative position as if it were in a conventional pick up bed. They are even available in aluminum, to keep weight down. This approach would make it impossible to carry the camper jacks mounted under the wings. In fact, the jack mount system would have to be reengineered, but the increase in storage seems to make the whole prospect well worth considering. And the fiberglass bustle would have to be carefully considered. I further discovered that Ford and Chevy (perhaps others as well) trucks can have a conventional-looking bed with storage doors and compartments built in to the side panels. Check out the Royal truck body "Sport" model. It's the one that I've seen. I'm not sure they make them anymore but with patient searching... The fellow in the Ford truck liked the body but had trouble with the latches and couldn't get replacements from Royal, for whatever that's worth. I've some pics somewhere. I'll endeavor to post them soon. Dick |
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Posted By: D1trout
on 06/02/14 12:28pm
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67Avion wrote: At first I was devastated. But, as I gradually realized it was not a death in the family, just a dent in the Avion. I felt better. In fact the motel owner, Sonny, lent me a ladder and shouted encouragement as I patched the holes. I am going to put the Avion away for a while. We'll repair it later this summer. In the meantime I savor the trip that Jane and I just experienced. Man, you have set a high bar for trip reports! Those southwest pics of Capitol Reef and Monument Valley - well, really all your pics - are superb. And to get poked like that on the way home... You've given a lot of us a mighty itch to get on the road with our Avions. Thanks for that! Chuck Cayo seems to have a pretty good supply of the specialized extrusions and curved panels on hand. Dick |
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Posted By: Michael 111
on 06/02/14 03:30pm
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D1trout wrote:
Cajunavion wrote: My other problem is I can not seem to visualize how to get a 41 inch wide dinette bed, across the full 8ft width of the camper. 3/4 plywood is HEAVY and any thing less is bowable. So I need a 41x41 piece of something to serve as kitchen table and lower bed that one person can easily move into position. Maybe making removable leaves. I dont know. Most layouts I have seen either have a small side table or the benches come in to the center isle a bit. I really want to seat on the wings as is and have Cajun, as you may recall, I'm doing an east-west dinette that converts to a single bed so the dogs can lie at window height and commune with us thru the rear truck sliding window as we drive along... I am thinking to use the Lagun table system - I think you pointed it out to us - and a composite table top, the same material I'm using for cabs and counters and bulkheads. Here's the website for that composite: www.productsignsupplies.com. Look for "aluminum composite boards". This material is likely available from a wholesaler near you. It's sign stock: thin aluminum sheets laminated over a polyethylene core and it comes in various thicknesses. I'd suggest you consider having a 1" square aluminum tubing frame welded and then fasten whatever surfaces you wish onto it. It sounds as if my table will considerably smaller than your's: something like 28" wide by 32" deep. Dick and everyone else .... I totally agree with you and everyone that Luan is second choice at best.... But let me clarify a few things about this build this camper had a rough life with probably many owners before me and everyone has done some repairs to it, lots and lots of pop rivets all over the place , you get the idea so for me this is a fun project that will provide me with a stable platform to build a off road capable camper that keeps 4 adults comfortable and has some personality to it without killing the lines of the C11. I am totally aware of the quality work that everyone has put into their rigs to make them as close to original or as fitting to their situations as needed. This is a wealth of knowledge here. and i am glad of tapping into this Dick, you probably take the cake on this with your aluminum frame. If finances would allow it,yes there would be only the best marine grade wood and even a diesel cooktop/ heater in it. I probably have the skills to totally automate the unit, sun tracking solar, etc.. gadgets galore and control it from your a phone or any web based application. I build artificial humans (and parts)for medical training purposes as one of my jobs Check it out at www.haatrainers.com WARNING SOME GRAPHIC IMAGES Will i ever deploy this technology in this build - probably not. This build will be a self contained C-11 for under 5K and under 2300 lb fully loaded and maiden voyage anticipated by the end of July, granted probably no solar or engel fridge by then. I have no idea if all of my plans will work out , but at a cost of $150 for the entire inner skin i have no problem ripping it out next summer and try something new. Latest crazy idea is to add a slide out kitchen.....in be belly pan Onward to build something Dick |
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Posted By: 67avion
on 06/02/14 08:56pm
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D1trout wrote: Man, you have set a high bar for trip reports! Those southwest pics of Capitol Reef and Monument Valley - well, really all your pics - are superb. And to get poked like that on the way home... Many thanks for your kind words. I enjoy our trips in the Avion. It's a real pleasure. It's amazing how many people just smile as we pass by, holding up a thumbs up or a wave. I return home energized by our trips. It's great to share our experiences as well in trip reports. I'm sure you've heard me banging the table for an Avion caravan. If you like we can all meet on the outcrop of Muley Point, Utah, and travel from there. Fair warning: the views may cause fainting spells. |
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