* This post was edited 05/14/14 08:40pm by 67avion *
Jamm3r wrote:
I have had good luck with my repairs, though they were time consuming.
RV toilets have to be mounted to the top of the tank. If you have the waste pipe enter the side of the tank it will clog.
There are plenty of short toilets available.
You may be able to fit the tanks in there but I would be surprised if you can do so and still have room for the dump valves, shower trap, and other plumbing. Remember that the sink drain has to pass the black tank on its way to the greywater tank so you'll lose a couple of inches for that. Think about how you're going to place dump valves and T them together -- they use quite a bit of space.
rfuerst911sc wrote:
Guys I will soon be dropping the rear cover so I can access the rotted wood in the rear floor section. As I peak into the side opening cover I see the existing holding tank which looks like previous owners have cobbled some leak repairs. I believe the factory black tank is difficult to repair and from the initial peek through the cover this one might be toast.
Guys I will soon be dropping the rear cover so I can access the rotted wood in the rear floor section. As I peak into the side opening cover I see the existing holding tank which looks like previous owners have cobbled some leak repairs. I believe the factory black tank is difficult to repair and from the initial peek through the cover this one might be toast.
I have had good luck with my repairs, though they were time consuming.
Quote:
The original tank has a raised section that the toilet mounts to, is there any problem if I replace the tank with a rectangular tank and have the waste pipe dump into the side of the tank ? Or should I have it dump into the top of the tank ?
The original tank has a raised section that the toilet mounts to, is there any problem if I replace the tank with a rectangular tank and have the waste pipe dump into the side of the tank ? Or should I have it dump into the top of the tank ?
RV toilets have to be mounted to the top of the tank. If you have the waste pipe enter the side of the tank it will clog.
Quote:
If I go that route I won't have to rebuild such a high raised platform for the toilet to sit on, that would allow a toilet that is taller.
If I go that route I won't have to rebuild such a high raised platform for the toilet to sit on, that would allow a toilet that is taller.
There are plenty of short toilets available.
Quote:
I have found some used aluminum tanks locally that are 39 " long x 15 " wide by 8 " high that will fit under the rear cover. That's about 22 gallons which will just be black water. I think I can get two of them in there and have 22 gallons each for black and grey. Am I crazy or is this doable ? The tanks I found are dirt cheap so easily worth trying.
I have found some used aluminum tanks locally that are 39 " long x 15 " wide by 8 " high that will fit under the rear cover. That's about 22 gallons which will just be black water. I think I can get two of them in there and have 22 gallons each for black and grey. Am I crazy or is this doable ? The tanks I found are dirt cheap so easily worth trying.
You may be able to fit the tanks in there but I would be surprised if you can do so and still have room for the dump valves, shower trap, and other plumbing. Remember that the sink drain has to pass the black tank on its way to the greywater tank so you'll lose a couple of inches for that. Think about how you're going to place dump valves and T them together -- they use quite a bit of space.
Sound advice , plan ,plan,plan , when making alterations Assume everything had a reason in the original design . Successful alterations have been made as witnessed by this thread but it always took very careful planning , and a healthy knowledge of the mechanics involved .
'68 Avion C-11
'02 GMC DRW D/A flatbed
I don't find that it helps much, though it's quiet, or at least the bearings are. It does keep the furnace and the immediately surrounding area a little cooler. Part of my rationale for reducing the firing rate is that I want to leave the fan off.
1971 Cayo C-11 truck camper, 2010 Airstream Classic, 1997 Chevrolet K2500, 2004 Chevrolet Suburban 2500 8.1.
Jamm3r wrote:
Furnace Blower
I don't find that it helps much, though it's quiet, or at least the bearings are. It does keep the furnace and the immediately surrounding area a little cooler. Part of my rationale for reducing the firing rate is that I want to leave the fan off.
Furnace Blower
I don't find that it helps much, though it's quiet, or at least the bearings are. It does keep the furnace and the immediately surrounding area a little cooler. Part of my rationale for reducing the firing rate is that I want to leave the fan off.
My fan is also very quit . The flow of air is up from the floor across the heat exchanger . I have been toying with the idea of reversing the the flow to draw the air down across the exchanger to start the warm air at the floor . It seems it would even out the temperature better from floor to ceiling . Thoughts ?
ticki2 wrote:
My fan is also very quit . The flow of air is up from the floor across the heat exchanger . I have been toying with the idea of reversing the the flow to draw the air down across the exchanger to start the warm air at the floor . It seems it would even out the temperature better from floor to ceiling . Thoughts ?
Jamm3r wrote:
Furnace Blower
I don't find that it helps much, though it's quiet, or at least the bearings are. It does keep the furnace and the immediately surrounding area a little cooler. Part of my rationale for reducing the firing rate is that I want to leave the fan off.
Furnace Blower
I don't find that it helps much, though it's quiet, or at least the bearings are. It does keep the furnace and the immediately surrounding area a little cooler. Part of my rationale for reducing the firing rate is that I want to leave the fan off.
My fan is also very quit . The flow of air is up from the floor across the heat exchanger . I have been toying with the idea of reversing the the flow to draw the air down across the exchanger to start the warm air at the floor . It seems it would even out the temperature better from floor to ceiling . Thoughts ?
That seems like a good idea if it will draw enough air properly.
If I could quiet mine down, then reverse it, I would have a nice heater. Mine has made noise as long as I can remember. It doesn't have much of a bearing, so I need to find a quality bearing for the outside of the squirrel cage.
Ford F-350 4x4 Diesel
1988 Avion Triple Axle Trailer
1969 Avion C-11 Camper
Here's my dilemma dujour for you vintage
OEM types. What is this and where can I
get them? This is the showers Ptrap. I have
another on the bath sink. Ptrap and basin
fixture is standard fare, the connection is the
question. I am used to slip tail pieces, this
is some sort of threaded glue in adaptor.
![[image]](http://s1014.photobucket.com/user/cajunavion/media/BDB86D12-10C3-4CCC-95E5-031DAB5AA1CF_zpsoecxgqtg.jpg.html)
cajunavion wrote:
Howdy!
Here's my dilemma dujour for you vintage
OEM types. What is this and where can I
get them? This is the showers Ptrap. I have
another on the bath sink. Ptrap and basin
fixture is standard fare, the connection is the
question. I am used to slip tail pieces, this
is some sort of threaded glue in adaptor.
![[image]](http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af270/cajunavion/BDB86D12-10C3-4CCC-95E5-031DAB5AA1CF_zpsoecxgqtg.jpg)
Howdy!
Here's my dilemma dujour for you vintage
OEM types. What is this and where can I
get them? This is the showers Ptrap. I have
another on the bath sink. Ptrap and basin
fixture is standard fare, the connection is the
question. I am used to slip tail pieces, this
is some sort of threaded glue in adaptor.
Pretty standard RV shower drain tail piece , the rest are standard ABS fittings . You can get them at most RV parts stores .
Steve Hingten over at Vintage Trailer Supply
did not have it, but the correct terminology
saved the day : Swival Tray Plug Adaptor.
Who knew?
Thanks Dennis, your fast!