D1 wrote:
t turns out the rear vent in the shell has power to it as well as to the front vent, similar to what 69Avion has. Perhaps in later years the factory added power to the rear. Certainly makes sense to have it there
t turns out the rear vent in the shell has power to it as well as to the front vent, similar to what 69Avion has. Perhaps in later years the factory added power to the rear. Certainly makes sense to have it there
Well, its that sinking feeling if I made a mistake. I'm sure that we didn't have power in the rear vent.....but. Oh well.
Here is the mod of the rear vent. I photographed Jeff, craftsman extraordinaire, who works for me. We took on the Avion when business was slow.
First we popped the interior shell. In the background you can see where we have removed the AC and the new fan hanging from the vent in the front. Heh. Its also possible to see the place in the right front where I drove the Avion into an overhanging porch - ruining the exterior aluminum and bending in the fiberglass. That's another story.
![[image]](http://s739.photobucket.com/user/dgorton/media/rearfan_zps4ef0ca36.jpg.html)
Then we created a track through the insulation and ribs from the area of the cabinet to the area where we wanted the wire to run to the rear vent.
![[image]](http://s739.photobucket.com/user/dgorton/media/rearfan3_zpsb4e777da.jpg.html)
Finally it was a fishing expedition. But it eventually was tied together and the fan installed.
![[image]](http://s739.photobucket.com/user/dgorton/media/rearfan2_zps36571769.jpg.html)
As to the rear lights of the Coach, here is a photo. You can see that I have a back - up light in the old heat exhaust. I plan to switch out the clearance lights and get the ones that Garry6 recommends.
![[image]](http://s739.photobucket.com/user/dgorton/media/avionrear_zps7383572f.jpg.html)
By the way Dick, I note that you are posting pictures like a house-a-fire. Excellent. Onward!
Garry
Garry K
Wife + 4 kids
Retired Military Family.... Alway's on the move....
2002 F350 CCSB 5.4 6spd 4x4 in AK
1966 Avion C-10 Truck Camper
![[image]](http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/D1trout/media/Photobucket%20Desktop%20-%20Dicks%20MacBook%20Air/iPhoto%20Library/IMG_1716_zps8c7e68e1.jpg.html)
You can see where an extra 1.5" tube has been added at the door to provide extra support for mounting the steps. And here are two pics showing the left and right sides in detail. Gary built a jig to bend the square tubing and it has worked out well. The curves are the same at the front of the camper and at the cabover, so we'll just make more as we proceed.
![[image]](http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/D1trout/media/Photobucket%20Desktop%20-%20Dicks%20MacBook%20Air/iPhoto%20Library/IMG_1719_zps2372df60.jpg.html)
![[image]](http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/D1trout/media/Photobucket%20Desktop%20-%20Dicks%20MacBook%20Air/iPhoto%20Library/IMG_1718_zps18a80586.jpg.html)
Now we build the bulkhead at the front, with an enlarged window opening, and add tubing of the proper length the connect the bottom frame and bulkhead into a single assembly. Then we'll add the sides and wings...
Onward!
Dick
I don't know what sort of steps you are installing....perhaps the OEM that hang down? We put in "Torklift Glowstep" scissor steps and have been pleased with their utility. We have used them with as much as 36" clearance - depending on our parking set up.
We installed a metal plate - under the coach - that reached as far forward as possible to defeat the cantilever effect on the steps. We then inserted stovebolts to the plate to preserve a flat surface for the floor.
With the placement of the steps on the ground most of the weight is relieved from the door opening. I mention this because the OEM step had racheted over the years and broken the metal at the base of the door.
Steve.
'07 Ford Ranger XLT Supercab diesel + '91 Shadow Cruiser - Sky Cruiser 1
'98 Jeep TJ 4.0
'15 Ford Fiesta ST
'09 Fiat Panda 1.2
67avion wrote:
Looks great!
I don't know what sort of steps you are installing....perhaps the OEM that hang down? We put in "Torklift Glowstep" scissor steps and have been pleased with their utility. We have used them with as much as 36" clearance - depending on our parking set up.
We installed a metal plate - under the coach - that reached as far forward as possible to defeat the cantilever effect on the steps. We then inserted stovebolts to the plate to preserve a flat surface for the floor.
With the placement of the steps on the ground most of the weight is relieved from the door opening. I mention this because the OEM step had racheted over the years and broken the metal at the base of the door.
Looks great!
I don't know what sort of steps you are installing....perhaps the OEM that hang down? We put in "Torklift Glowstep" scissor steps and have been pleased with their utility. We have used them with as much as 36" clearance - depending on our parking set up.
We installed a metal plate - under the coach - that reached as far forward as possible to defeat the cantilever effect on the steps. We then inserted stovebolts to the plate to preserve a flat surface for the floor.
With the placement of the steps on the ground most of the weight is relieved from the door opening. I mention this because the OEM step had racheted over the years and broken the metal at the base of the door.
I agree, that based on the type of steps you go with, you may want to add a bit more strengthening forward to keep the frame work from buckling.
Additionally, looking at the Bathroom area, you may want to think about the type of toilet and mounting that will be required, as that may necessitate moving things around on the supports to accomodate a toilet flange or shower drain flange etc.
See these pics for Ideas...
![[image]](http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d92/garryk6/1966%20Avion%20Camper%20remodel/DSC06707-2.jpg)
I had to deal with all this framework to get the drain fed down to the plumb all the drains...
![[image]](http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d92/garryk6/1966%20Avion%20Camper%20remodel/DSC06015.jpg)
Other than that it is looking GREAT!!
Keep the pics coming, and maybe some base line weights of each section as it is added to the mix would be helpful!
Garry
* This post was edited 01/28/14 12:32pm by garryk6 *
Ford F-350 4x4 Diesel
1988 Avion Triple Axle Trailer
1969 Avion C-11 Camper
The fiberglass "bustle", as I've come to refer to it, will be sealed. That means that I'm reglassing it to eliminate the existing hatches and access panels. Then I'll put proper sealable plastic marine-style hatches in the bottom and sides to make a dirt, dust and water-free storage space, with access when necessary. I'm going to use a garden hose for draining the gray water tank. Trying to keep the plumbing as simple as possible.
That part of the new existing frame that fills the rear compartment behind the two side panels weighs about 35 pounds, not counting those lengths that extend forward towards the front of the camper. The 1.5"x1.5"x1/8th inch wall tubing is 0.8 pounds per foot.
The steps are the double folding style that Garry has on his rig and visible in his undercarriage picture. I added the extra tube just behind the threshold of the door to give a solid member to bolt the front of the step to. The back will bolt to the frame member further in. If it appears it will need more support - that seems unlikely, but perhaps so - I'll put a solid aluminum plate on the frame at the point where the steps will mount to keep everything rigid.
Just drawing up the Tyvek pattern for the bulkhead to get Gary going on that. Going to put a big sliding window in it to allow access - for dogs anyway - to the front of the truck.
Also thinking to redesign the interior to a front dinette style. I prefer that arrangement. It means relocating propane tanks but I have some thoughts about that.
Onward!
Dick
I'm talking to the guys at Wind and Sun in Flagstaff and they have a kit with 2 Kyocera panels totaling 280 watts, with all the controllers, etc for $870. I also talked to an installer in Flagstaff who estimated (since he has not seen my camper) that the install would run in the neighborhood of $550 to $850. Total between $1400 and $1700. That seems high to me, but then the guys out there do them all the time and it should be a good install.
I've also talked to my local RV guy who has performed miracles on my electrical system. He is a highly adept guy, but hasn't done many solar installs in general and none on a truck camper.
He is interested in doing mine, however, to extend his expertise. We haven't talked money at this point. But, like I said, I have a lot of confidence in him.
We agree that the curve of the roof is a bit of an issue. Here is his solution.
He suggests installing aluminum tubes, east-west, that will be attached to the structural ribs of the Avion's roof...and then attaching the solar panels to the tubing. He believes it will minimize the danger of leaks that can occur when the "Z bracket" mounting feet are set in the roof. While we haven't really investigated my roof real estate for the exact placement, we have agreed that we can run the wires down the unused refrigerator vent. The charge controller and other gear will go in the upper cabinet next to the stove.
I hope this is making some sense in terms of my description. Does anyone have any ideas about this project both in terms of installation as well as costs?
Does anyone have solar on their Avion TC?