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| Topic: Avion truck campers - Hundreds of photos |
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Posted By: rfuerst911sc
on 09/16/13 09:11am
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I'm planning on installing the Stable Lift this coming weekend. Bought it used so no instructions. Pretty straight forward but I want to get the side to side spacing right to clear the dually fenders. My old manual jacks were spaced 26 " from the sidewall of the camper tub to the inside of the tube of the lift. This was sufficient to squeeze the dually in there. Just want to confirm from anyone with any type of lift is 26 " the minimum you need from the camper tub to the inside of the lift to fit your dually ? I'm going to try and make it a little bigger but want to confirm the minimum it has to be. Thanks
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Posted By: NJAvion
on 09/17/13 09:58am
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Okie doke. I'm at a loss with the search function. Anyone remember where in this monster thread somebody talked about how to remove the fiberglass pan? I remember someone mentioning those rusty nails on either side, but wondering if anyone had tips for what to remove in what order to make the thing come loose. Issue is, I have floor rot in the aft sections of the foam sandwich under both the bathroom and the closet. I want to make a clean cut in the floor and lay down OSB over it. My thinking was, this would be easier with the tub off. Now I am thinking maybe it's best to leave it on there, for another 45 years or so. Stefan |
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Posted By: 67avion
on 09/17/13 11:04am
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I am totally in agreement about the search function. A lot of valuable stuff is awfully hard to find as this string gets ever longer. NJ on page 11 is a discussion with photos of the reworking of the plumbing that is protected by the fibreglass pan in the rear. It may help you visualize what is under there. I remember that we discussed the removal of the pan at some point, and I think it was pretty straightforward. There is a band that surrounds the pan which has to be removed, and then there are the fasteners that hold the aluminum to the interior wood panels. I think that we all found that the bracing was inadequate and had to be replaced. In my case, I was amazed that the whole bathroom didn't just fall through the floor due to the poor support. I'll bet that everyone else here will chime in, but I doubt you will be encouraged to leave it on for another 45 years ;-)
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Posted By: Dodgeavion
on 09/17/13 11:52am
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On mine the pan was put on before the skin. This meant I had nails holding the pan on that were under the skin. Most were rusted away and posed no problem but a few required pulling the skin out a bit and cutting the head off. Pulling the pan for me was a PIA but worth it. The floor under my closet latterly fell out when I removed the closet. The closet was holding up the floor. Bathroom wasn't much better. When I removed the bathroom that floor sagged and fell out with a gentle budge.
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Posted By: Avion C-11
on 09/17/13 01:29pm
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I have lots of pics of that section coming apart here: http://avioncamper.wordpress.com/2011/11/09/build-photos-to-date/
Happy Camping! Avioncamper.wordpress.com
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Posted By: NJAvion
on 09/17/13 01:49pm
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Got the left (closet) side off with a bit of wrangling. Huge stockpile of squirrel nuts in there, and the floor did fall right out. I'm going to try and clean it up today and start laying new wood and insulation tomorrow. Always exciting. |
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Posted By: 69 Avion
on 09/17/13 03:08pm
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NJAvion wrote: Okie doke. I'm at a loss with the search function. Anyone remember where in this monster thread somebody talked about how to remove the fiberglass pan? I remember someone mentioning those rusty nails on either side, but wondering if anyone had tips for what to remove in what order to make the thing come loose. Issue is, I have floor rot in the aft sections of the foam sandwich under both the bathroom and the closet. I want to make a clean cut in the floor and lay down OSB over it. My thinking was, this would be easier with the tub off. Now I am thinking maybe it's best to leave it on there, for another 45 years or so. Stefan I think that it was my post about taking the fiberglass pan off. It was a real pain. Once you know how they built the camper it is easier to figure out. They laid out the floor first, shot some nails through the fiberglass pan to hold it in place, put the ribs on and then the aluminum outer skin. The nails will be hidden by the aluminum and you can't pull them straight out because you can't get to them under the aluminum. Avion should have just put two nails on each side to hold it, but they went overboard with several nails on each side. The nails will be rusty as mine were, even in Arizona. My FiL spent many hours under there with a hack saw blade cutting each nail. The nails were so rusty and loose that they will rotate. Some of them I was able to get out with needle nose pliers. I think someone here said that they used a dremel tool to cut the nails. Either way, once you get it off you can redo all the plumbing if necessary. I showed pictures of how I reinforce the fiberglass with a stainless steel band and 1/4-20 SS nuts tacked to the band. I now have a diamondplate cover that looks awesome. ![]() ![]() Inside of fiberglass with stainless steel reinforcement. ![]()
Ford F-350 4x4 Diesel 1988 Avion Triple Axle Trailer 1969 Avion C-11 Camper |
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Posted By: garryk6
on 09/17/13 03:15pm
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Avion C-11 wrote: I have lots of pics of that section coming apart here: http://avioncamper.wordpress.com/2011/11/09/build-photos-to-date/ Link to pics * This post was edited 09/17/13 03:21pm by garryk6 * Garry K Wife + 4 kids Retired Military Family.... Alway's on the move.... 2002 F350 CCSB 5.4 6spd 4x4 in AK 1966 Avion C-10 Truck Camper |
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Posted By: Avion C-11
on 09/18/13 09:18am
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Thanks for fixing the link Garry.
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Posted By: cajunavion
on 09/19/13 08:01pm
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Howdy! I?m trying to figure out how to cool this thing. Its alot hotter down here than Alaska! I saw the 5000 btu window unit. What temperature can that bring it down to on a hot day? Some folks are using mini splits in their RVs with great results. Thoughts? |
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