Steve.
'07 Ford Ranger XLT Supercab diesel + '91 Shadow Cruiser - Sky Cruiser 1
'98 Jeep TJ 4.0
'15 Ford Fiesta ST
'09 Fiat Panda 1.2
Question: what would be the best way to unscrew the nut on the ABS shower drain? Meaning, the thing in the hole in the floor here:
![[image]](http://i.imgur.com/6sgvwpd.jpg)
Do I need to take off the whole fiberglass pan? Does somebody make a really stubby crescent wrench I could use?
Also, at first glance the underside of my black tank looks solid, a little rusting at the bottom screws but that's about it. Folks who redid their leaky tanks, how did yours look compared to this?
![[image]](http://i.imgur.com/S5BEKPP.jpg)
Thanks all,
- Stefan
garryk6 wrote:
For Dennis' (69cayo) question about the east west bed... We are going to do a two-piece matress, and a slider that will slide out over the two rounded corners exactly one foot. That will allow for a queen east-west bed. We also may add some storage on each end of the E/W bed...
Garry
For Dennis' (69cayo) question about the east west bed... We are going to do a two-piece matress, and a slider that will slide out over the two rounded corners exactly one foot. That will allow for a queen east-west bed. We also may add some storage on each end of the E/W bed...
Garry
Hey, Garry.
Did you ever get the Q/S mattress with the slider idea to work? We have our '66 set up for Shirley to sleep up in the cabover, and I'm down below on the the dinette convertible. Gets lonesome when you've been sleeping together for thirty-eight years.
See y'all on the roads, or in the parks.
tonyj & Shirley
'66 AVION C-10
'86 F-250 6.9 DIESEL
KJ4OEQ 146.520MHz
CB Channel 7
tonyj54 wrote:
Hey, Garry.
Did you ever get the Q/S mattress with the slider idea to work? We have our '66 set up for Shirley to sleep up in the cabover, and I'm down below on the the dinette convertible. Gets lonesome when you've been sleeping together for thirty-eight years.
garryk6 wrote:
For Dennis' (69cayo) question about the east west bed... We are going to do a two-piece matress, and a slider that will slide out over the two rounded corners exactly one foot. That will allow for a queen east-west bed. We also may add some storage on each end of the E/W bed...
Garry
For Dennis' (69cayo) question about the east west bed... We are going to do a two-piece matress, and a slider that will slide out over the two rounded corners exactly one foot. That will allow for a queen east-west bed. We also may add some storage on each end of the E/W bed...
Garry
Hey, Garry.
Did you ever get the Q/S mattress with the slider idea to work? We have our '66 set up for Shirley to sleep up in the cabover, and I'm down below on the the dinette convertible. Gets lonesome when you've been sleeping together for thirty-eight years.
We ended up going with a full size mattress. I added a piece of aluminum angle iron plywood and a piece of oak trim to make it fit.
I think there are some pics of it some where in the high teens or early 20's for the pages of this thread. Works well form my wife and I, and our twins share the dinette.
Garry
Garry K
Wife + 4 kids
Retired Military Family.... Alway's on the move....
2002 F350 CCSB 5.4 6spd 4x4 in AK
1966 Avion C-10 Truck Camper
sabconsulting wrote:
Most people won't change fridge until their old one fails (i.e. the coolant leaks out). When it does you then need to make the decision which technology to go with. Compressor fridges really benefit from a good amount of solar - much easier and neater to install on a flat roofed TC than an Avion. If you boondock for days on end without electric hookup then a propane-driven absorption fridge will probably be better for you. On the other hand we offroad a lot and park at angles an absorption fridge wouldn't cope with, have solar power and are usually moving every day so the battery is charged from the truck alternator, so a compressor fridge is a better fit for us. When you eventually have to change your fridge you will have to weigh up the pros and cons and see which fits your camping style best.
Steve.
Most people won't change fridge until their old one fails (i.e. the coolant leaks out). When it does you then need to make the decision which technology to go with. Compressor fridges really benefit from a good amount of solar - much easier and neater to install on a flat roofed TC than an Avion. If you boondock for days on end without electric hookup then a propane-driven absorption fridge will probably be better for you. On the other hand we offroad a lot and park at angles an absorption fridge wouldn't cope with, have solar power and are usually moving every day so the battery is charged from the truck alternator, so a compressor fridge is a better fit for us. When you eventually have to change your fridge you will have to weigh up the pros and cons and see which fits your camping style best.
Steve.
My 66 C-10 was completely gutted when I bought it.. So I had to make a choice, buy a propane fridge/freezer, or buy a compressor fridge that could also be used as a freezer. Here in Alaska, we have the problems of not always camping where level. But we are like others here that move more than stay put, so driving each day charges our single group 24 deep cycle. We have run the fridge for 3 days so far without depleting the battery with no charging. Our Engel MT-45 does the trick well for our family and how we camp and travel. Some day we will add solar and another battery or two to extend our range. Propane is also very expensive and some times hard to get in Alaska, so by minimizing our use of propane to the stove and catalytic heater. Hopefully soon we will have a front rack to carry our generator we got for free. This will also make extended boon docking easier. The new 40 gallon water tAnk fits well, with room for the new water pump. We carry our C10 on a shortbed truck, so I have tried to keep overall weight down, and as much weight of the remaining shifted as far forward as possible.
I say this not to change anyone's mind, but to explain why we chose to build our camper the way we have.
Good luck, and keep the pictures coming!
Garry in AK
NJAvion wrote:
Took off the metal plate under the rear fiberglass tub that covers the black water valve and P-trap for the shower. I am working on getting the shower pan out.
Question: what would be the best way to unscrew the nut on the ABS shower drain? Meaning, the thing in the hole in the floor here:
Do I need to take off the whole fiberglass pan? Does somebody make a really stubby crescent wrench I could use?
Also, at first glance the underside of my black tank looks solid, a little rusting at the bottom screws but that's about it. Folks who redid their leaky tanks, how did yours look compared to this?
Thanks all,
- Stefan
Took off the metal plate under the rear fiberglass tub that covers the black water valve and P-trap for the shower. I am working on getting the shower pan out.
Question: what would be the best way to unscrew the nut on the ABS shower drain? Meaning, the thing in the hole in the floor here:
Do I need to take off the whole fiberglass pan? Does somebody make a really stubby crescent wrench I could use?
Also, at first glance the underside of my black tank looks solid, a little rusting at the bottom screws but that's about it. Folks who redid their leaky tanks, how did yours look compared to this?
Thanks all,
- Stefan
IIRC the shower drain unscrews from the top . If you don't have the proper wrench you can make one with a piece of flat bar cut at the bottom so you have two prongs that will go into the drain holes . Then put a vise-grip on the bar and turn counter clockwise . If it is really stuck you may have to cut the black pipe and replace the fitting . You can get them at most any RV store . The nut in the picture is not a nut but a way to hold the pipe if needed when you screw or unscrew the top .
From the picture your black tank seems to be in good condition . Go easy on those rusted bolts , they are threaded into the plastic tank . If and when you replace them , use stainless steel bolts .
'68 Avion C-11
'02 GMC DRW D/A flatbed
Ford F-350 4x4 Diesel
1988 Avion Triple Axle Trailer
1969 Avion C-11 Camper
NJAvion wrote:
Took off the metal plate under the rear fiberglass tub that covers the black water valve and P-trap for the shower. I am working on getting the shower pan out.
Question: what would be the best way to unscrew the nut on the ABS shower drain? Meaning, the thing in the hole in the floor here:
Do I need to take off the whole fiberglass pan? Does somebody make a really stubby crescent wrench I could use?
Took off the metal plate under the rear fiberglass tub that covers the black water valve and P-trap for the shower. I am working on getting the shower pan out.
Question: what would be the best way to unscrew the nut on the ABS shower drain? Meaning, the thing in the hole in the floor here:
Do I need to take off the whole fiberglass pan? Does somebody make a really stubby crescent wrench I could use?
I was unable to unscrew the drain from above. Whether you can do so will depend mainly on what kind of sealant was used between the drain and the tub. I had to cut the pipe at the trap and unscrew it with a pipe wrench.
The shower pan is ABS, not fiberglass.
Quote:
Also, at first glance the underside of my black tank looks solid, a little rusting at the bottom screws but that's about it. Folks who redid their leaky tanks, how did yours look compared to this?
Also, at first glance the underside of my black tank looks solid, a little rusting at the bottom screws but that's about it. Folks who redid their leaky tanks, how did yours look compared to this?
Mine had patches from previous repairs.
I sanded it and patched it with epoxy and fiberglass mat, then overcoated it, using components from West System.
1971 Cayo C-11 truck camper, 2010 Airstream Classic, 1997 Chevrolet K2500, 2004 Chevrolet Suburban 2500 8.1.
