mustex

NZ

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Joined: 01/08/2012

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RVRODDER wrote: I used some "snake"or "reptile" aquarium type, infra red heaters to fight off the freezing temperatures affecting my holding tanks,this saves my propane,these heaters are not expensive,about $30 each,for a flat,1/16"thick pad.These can be attached directly with double sided tape to your tanks,very efficient and safe little heaters that put the heat where you need it the most.
How many did you put on each tank?
How cold were the temps you camped in?
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pianotuna

Regina, SK, Canada

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Joined: 12/18/2004

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Hi,
Be aware that inverter generators may not produce their full output in cold weather DAMHIK.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.
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boston blacky

Gatineau Quebec Canada

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Joined: 04/22/2004

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Greetings;
It's been cold the past few nights and here in Canada's National Capitol Region of Gatineau/Ottawa the local forcast calls for one more night of below freez'n temps. before it warms up. Bottom line is 35 yr. ago - when we camped out with our kids in an oversize pop-up tent trailer -cold nights didn't seem to really matter. Now, in my mid sixtys the cold gets to me. Especially after all winter in the warm Texas sun. "Help me make it thru the night". And bring on that south Texas sun. BB
p.s. Put something in the oven at 6 am to shake of the morn'n chill. That helps.
BOSTON BLK
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safn1949

Mankato,MN

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Joined: 10/23/2011

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So a question....I see where you have to be careful of the fridge because of the way it works but what if you don't run it and the TT is stored all winter? Mine is 21 years old so it seems to be a non issue,comments please.
I am parked in a campground with shore power and wonder how long we can stay in Minnesota's winter,wind is going to be a big factor as it is flat and windy.
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pianotuna

Regina, SK, Canada

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Hi safn,
I think when the fridge is turned off the water is all recombined into the ammonia. Ammonia freezes at -77.7 C (-107.86 F). If it is that cold, you will have other problems.
If you prepare properly and use the information on this thread you can stay through the entire winter--assuming a "four seasons" Rv with enclosed tanks.
The issues are where to dump and where to acquire fresh water.
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safn1949

Mankato,MN

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pianotuna wrote: Hi safn,
I think when the fridge is turned off the water is all recombined into the ammonia. Ammonia freezes at -77.7 C (-107.86 F). If it is that cold, you will have other problems.
If you prepare properly and use the information on this thread you can stay through the entire winter--assuming a "four seasons" Rv with enclosed tanks.
The issues are where to dump and where to acquire fresh water.
There is the rub,it is not a 4 season trailer. I would more then likely no keep water on board as we have another option for showers/toilet. It would just be sleeping hanging out about 4~6 days a month as I travel driving truck during the winter months.
Thanks for your response.
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pianotuna

Regina, SK, Canada

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Hi safn,
If running with no water that's even easier. Just keep enough electric heat on to keep the provisions from freezing. You could even get "sexy" and have a way to have a phone system to trigger the heat up to living temperatures a day before you arrived at the trailer.
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Red_747

Colorado

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Joined: 06/10/2012

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We are first year, full time RVer's here in Colorado and have made it through one winter without any serious issues. With that in mind I want to reduce both my cooling and heating costs. I have found that the ceiling and floor currently are warm to the touch. With temps in the 80's to the 90's I think I need to do some extra insulating now, obviously before winter. By insulating now I would also decrease potential cooling costs. My concern or question is this; there is approximately 3 inches between the ceiling and roof joists, currently with only approximately 1 inch of fiberglass insulation. I believe this dead space could either 1) be heated in summer or 2) be cooled in winter. In theory this hotter or colder temperature could be transferred into the living area. How can I put more insulation in the ceiling, without tearing the whole thing apart? I briefly considered using expanding foam; however, I don’t want any issues with a bulging ceiling or roof, and I would not be able to spread the foam out over a large area. I also have considered using the holes for ceiling lights to blow in insulation. These holes are about 1 ½ inches in diameter and are about 4 to 6 feet apart. I have talked with a couple of neighbors and a couple of RV stores about this and nobody has any ideas on how to accomplish this. The local DIY stores don’t have any suggestions either. The floor I am not that concerned about at this time. Sometime soon I will be installing R-Tech Foam Insulation, and covering with carpet to look more aesthetic. Does anybody have any ideas about the ceiling?
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pianotuna

Regina, SK, Canada

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Hi,
While in theory more insulation could be added condensation leading to wet insulation might be a serious issue.
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rehoppe

Denver & Nathrop Colo or somewhere else

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Joined: 01/30/2009

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Red747
You might give a call to some of the insulation specialists. They Might have a low expansion foam? Or may know how to do some blow in insulation. DIY places are not always the most knowledgable.
Hoppe
2011 Dodge 1500 C'boy Caddy
2000 Jayco C 28' Ford chassis w V-10 E450
Doghouse 36' or so Trophy Classic TT
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