tr3rt
Lake Odessa
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how can I get this write up?
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jjinatx
Austin, TX, USA
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Joined: 11/25/2003
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MTBob,
Thanks for the great info on the jack motors. While I have the motor off the jack,I'll go ahead and check that clutch for any damage.
As for the jack itself, I wire brushed the whole screw thread and coated it with the white grease for GD openers. I ran it in and out a few times, each time wiping off the threads because first time when I backed it out the grease looked tan (rust?). I recoated it once more and ran it in and out. It is well lubed now and I can turn the acme rod with my fingers.
I thought about repainting the inner leg, but the finish is in pretty good shape, so I just waxed it good with Johnson's paste wax.
Current Rig: 2017 F350 Crew Cab Short Bed 4X4 Powerstroke, 2018 Grand Design Reflection 29RS. Dearly Departed: 2003 GMC Sierra 3500 Dually, 2002 Bigfoot 25C10.6.
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MTBob
Montana
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jjinatx wrote:MTBob,
Thanks for the great info on the jack motors. While I have the motor off the jack,I'll go ahead and check that clutch for any damage.
As for the jack itself, I wire brushed the whole screw thread and coated it with the white grease for GD openers. I ran it in and out a few times, each time wiping off the threads because first time when I backed it out the grease looked tan (rust?). I recoated it once more and ran it in and out. It is well lubed now and I can turn the acme rod with my fingers.
I thought about repainting the inner leg, but the finish is in pretty good shape, so I just waxed it good with Johnson's paste wax.
Be sure to clean and re-grease the gear train in the head. I wouldn't put grease in the ball clutch, just a light coat of machine oil will do. Lubriplate grease is a good choice for the gear head.
HJ tech support suggests not using a grease on the jack threads, but rather use an oil coating. I disagree with that recommendation and used a Stay-Lube Marine grade wheel bearing grease, made by CRC. It's a blue grease, a little thicker than Lubriplate and is designed to repel water. Like you did, I coated the threads and then wiped them so there was only a light coating remaining. Either Stay-Lube or Lubriplate is a good choice for coating the thread.
Bob
2002 10-2000RR Northern Lite
2008 Chevy 3500 DMAX, SRW,
2001 Lund 1700 Fisherman
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bigfootford
Fair Oaks, California
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tr3rt wrote:how can I get this write up?
Are you talking about the jack lube procedure?
Here the link, which is in the Truck Camper University - Free Online Schoolin'
Click below:
HJ lubrication procedure
Jim
* This post was
edited 08/14/10 10:03am by bigfootford *
2000 2500 9.6 Bigfoot,94 F250, Vision 19.5, Mich 245/70XDS2's, Bilstein shocks, air bags/pump, EU2000, PD 9260,Lifeline 100ah, 200W. solar, Morningstar Sunsaver 15A/ display panel, Trimetric, Delorme/laptop, Holux gps rec,led lights, Wave-3 heat.
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bigfootford
Fair Oaks, California
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I think everyone that has HJ's should print the whole procedure, pix's and all.
The pictures may disappear and then the article/thread will be worthless....
The pictures are on Photo Bucket so if KKeller14K does not keep his account up we will loose these valuable pictures.
Jim
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jjinatx
Austin, TX, USA
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Just finished jack #2. Jack#2 has only a touch of rust on the upper part of the acme rod. Not much of any residual lube though - it would come pretty close to passing a "white glove test." Interesting that the 2 jacks I've worked on are slightly different from each other and from the one in Keller's pictures. I would caution anyone attempting this operation to pay REAL CLOSE attention to how things come apart and in what order. You can't depend 100% on the pictures shown in this thread. Either HJ has multiple suppliers or each build lot is different. Wondering if jacks #3& #4 are going be different in some way.
-jj
* This post was
edited 08/30/10 07:02pm by jjinatx *
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KKELLER14K
BEAVERTON OREGON
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Thanks Jim, I do sign on to that account to keep it current on a regular basis...I heard the same rumor and I have a lot of my pics of projects there, would hate to let you all down. I had the fear that some jacks would be differant....but it does give some idea of how it works. jjinatx, your so very right in the mentioning of attention to detail as to how it comes apart...can't stress that enough. I have two separate pairs on mine and have yet to tear another one down yet so more info to come if it is differant...thanks all!
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MTBob
Montana
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KKELLER14K: You've done a great job in documenting the jack tear down and maintenance. Similar to you, I've done the same job and took photos of all the steps. Since your post is so well done I've not added anything here except recent posts about the gear box and motor maintenance.
Like you said taking care not to lose parts or get them back in the wrong order is critical. It is a good idea to get the bearings (particularly the trust roller bearings) back in the same orientation that they came out. Bearing can have a tendency to "set in" to a given track or grove and changing that orientation can lead to accelerated wearing after reassembly. To make sure I got them back in the same order I placed the bearings and shims on a small piece of wire, made a loop and secured it. I then cleaned the shims and bearings while on that loop and reinstalled them in the same sequence and orientation that I removed them. Depending on shop layout and bench space it may also be handy to get several zip lock bags to keep parts and pieces from "walking off".
On my 10-2000 2002, Nothernlite I have 4100 and 4600 series jacks. If I recall correctly its the 4600's that use a ball screw and are on the front. The jack components are similar to the 4100, but there is a ball nut on the jack leg with matching ball type screw. The gear box and motor drive appeared to be the same on both models.
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MTBob
Montana
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tr3rt wrote:how can I get this write up?
As said in another post, the only way to get a "write up" is to printout this post. Happijac supplies a limited amount of (and somewhat misleading) lubrication instruction (the screw cannot be lubricated unless the jack leg is disassembled). They do not provide any detailed information about how to take a jack apart, nor do they provide parts lists or assembly diagrams. If you have troubles with a jack, they recommend that you send the jack back to them for maintenance. I forgotten the exact cost but it's not much... around $50 / jack if I recall. But, you also have to pay the shipping cost and it's fairly high.
Because these jacks are such a critical part of owning a TC, I made the decision to dig into the jacks and figure out how they work myself. They are not terribly complicated, but they do require some level of mechanical skills to work on the jacks. Failure to disassemble, lubricate and reassemble them correctly could lead to jack failure.
* This post was
edited 08/15/10 08:43am by MTBob *
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bigfootford
Fair Oaks, California
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This is a great conclusion to the HJ lubrication!!!
What I did with mine, the first time, I had my camera there as a witness....Hee hee.
One thing everyone should notice is the mounting of the jacks.
I had a couple of degree outward tilt to the passenger front jack....and about a 1 deg on the front drivers....
Think about this....If you raise the camper way up you will begin to notice a bit of binding of the jacks....and if you lower the camper all the way down It will really bind. This is really a serious issue, especially if you have more than 1 deg tilt in any direction. You will not notice any issue if you never lower the camper way down....
Jim
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