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bigfootford

Fair Oaks, California

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Posted: 08/12/12 09:59am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have some scraping/scratching going on but it is the area where the 4 guide pads are at the bottom inside of the outer tube....
Some places on the inner tube I do have a bit of flaking...
My jacks are 12 years old and get used a lot...
I customarily drop them every time we camp...For slightly leveling and stabilization... The Wife does not like the feeling of being in a boat that rocks when you turn over in bed...

Wonder what Atwood jacks do for centering...

Jim


2000 2500 9.6 Bigfoot,94 F250, Vision 19.5, Mich 245/70XDS2's, Bilstein shocks, air bags/pump, EU2000, PD 9260,Lifeline 100ah, 200W. solar, Morningstar Sunsaver 15A/ display panel, Trimetric, Delorme/laptop, Holux gps rec,led lights, Wave-3 heat.

magic43

Brookhaven, Ms.

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Posted: 08/12/12 12:02pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The 4 nylon pads on the bottom seem to be doing their job because there was no paint skimmed off of the center of the jack leg. Of course, uneven terrain puts uneven pressures on the jack legs so surely there is some flexing taking place.

All 4 of my jacks are missing paint, but only one had any sign of any paint build up. A silicone spray may improve the slideability (is that a new word?)of the jack legs. Surely it would not do any harm.

* This post was edited 08/12/12 06:52pm by magic43 *


magic43

wnjj

Cornelius, Oregon

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Posted: 08/12/12 02:27pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

magic43 wrote:

The 4 nylon pads on the bottom seem to be doing their job because there was no paint skimmed off of the center of the jack leg. Of course, uneven terrain puts uneven pressures on the jack legs so surely there is some flexing taking place.

All 4 of my jacks are missing paint, but only one had any sign of any paint build up. A silicone spray may improve the slideability is that a new word?)of the jack legs. Surely it would not do any harm.


HJ recommend waxing both the inner and outer tubes. Maybe that would help prevent the paint scraping?

bigfootford

Fair Oaks, California

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Posted: 08/12/12 07:50pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Pete_k wrote:

I do mine a little different but its worked for over 6 years. Taking a picture from the first post.
[image]
[image]
And just taking the motor off the top. In the above picture you can see there's room to use a White grease spray can and straw placing the straw next to these small openings around that inside SQ you can shoot this White Grease down onto the worm gear.
Sure beats tearing your jacks in pieces. And doing it this way It takes me less then an hour to do all 4 jacks with the camper sitting on the truck.
Plus less room for me to mess something up or leave a step out that could cause a camper to fall.

Pete


If it were this simple those of us that have taken our jacks apart would have not had to...

Someday you will have to....but for now, I am glad that works for you..

Jim

KKELLER14K

BEAVERTON OREGON

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Posted: 08/13/12 03:22am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Just like any mechanical jack screw device it will eventually need attention. Do you all remember what happened to an Alaskan airliner? They use a jack screw for tail trim and if it is not lubed correctly and it binds?...well a fail is not in my vocab....I'm not so happy with Happi Jack as they should have a more complete maintenance section to advise the consumer what can happen to their jack product and show everyone how to properly lube the jack screw. A partial problem is that the drains are not long enough from TC builders to wick the water further away from the top of the jack itself. You have seen the rust damage right?....MMM? Did you see the TC that fell over from a jack fail? Just saying that you have to be on it and watch for this stuff... I mean it could be down right dangerous. A TC that weighs in at almost 4500 pounds and your jacks fail trying to take it off the truck? Yeah walking a thin line here....that is why I did what I could to help....And I hope the thread will keep others informed when the questions come in on how to keep them working. I would not skimp at the first hint of a binding jack....take it apart,clean,inspect,look for bearing damage,re-lube if all is well. Good luck everyone and be safe!

INSAYN

NW Oregon

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Posted: 08/14/12 01:26pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Pete_k wrote:

I do mine a little different but its worked for over 6 years. Taking a picture from the first post.
[image]
[image]
And just taking the motor off the top. In the above picture you can see there's room to use a White grease spray can and straw placing the straw next to these small openings around that inside SQ you can shoot this White Grease down onto the worm gear.
Sure beats tearing your jacks in pieces. And doing it this way It takes me less then an hour to do all 4 jacks with the camper sitting on the truck.
Plus less room for me to mess something up or leave a step out that could cause a camper to fall.

Pete


Sorry, but this will not work. Once you actually remove the guts of a Happijac, you will understand how there is no way you can get any white lithium grease onto the worm gear from the top section of the jack housing. I have taken all four of my jacks apart several times over the years and completely cleaned and relubed each worm gear.


See how the worm gear is installed in relationship to the upper section? The square bearing and the coupler both completely block any chances of just squirting lithium grease onto the worm drive from above. You could however take your jacks apart one by one and cleanly drill a small hole into each one where you KNOW that you could put the lithium grease spray straw through for later applications. The hole could be tapped for a seal screw, or just a nice redneck cover made of camo duct tape. [emoticon]

[image]


1997 F350 CrewCab PSD 4x4, auto.
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magic43

Brookhaven, Ms.

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Posted: 08/14/12 08:31pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Since taking mine apart, I know that even with a hole drilled anywhere you want it, you absolutely can not properly lubricate everything that need it without a dis-assembly. Plus the complete dis-assembly is not a chore.

Two screws remove the motor assembly. One plastic plug and the "shift" lever removes the nylon motor socket "clutch", and one "E" clip removes the manual drive socket and the top gear. Lift the bottom gear out and a roll pin slipped out releases the entire lower telescoping section.

I then removed the 6 screws to remove the top motor/gear housing and greased all of the gears in the top gear assembly.

I used a small tub of Liquid Wrench white lithium grease that I bought from Carquest. That is some sticky grease. It will surely outlast whatever the factory used.

I spent about 30 minutes per jack and I now have complete confidence in my jacks. I would also be very comfortable dis-assembling one if a failure should occur while traveling.

* This post was edited 08/14/12 08:37pm by magic43 *

bigfootford

Fair Oaks, California

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Posted: 08/14/12 08:46pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

magic43 wrote:

Since taking mine apart, I know that even with a hole drilled anywhere you want it, you absolutely can not properly lubricate everything that need it without a dis-assembly. Plus the complete dis-assembly is not a chore.

Two screws remove the motor assembly. One plastic plug and the "shift" lever removes the nylon motor socket "clutch", and one "E" clip removes the manual drive socket and the top gear. Lift the bottom gear out and a roll pin slipped out releases the entire lower telescoping section.

I then removed the 6 screws to remove the top motor/gear housing and greased all of the gears in the top gear assembly.

I used a small tub of Liquid Wrench white lithium grease that I bought from Carquest. That is some sticky grease. It will surely outlast whatever the factory used.

I spent about 30 minutes per jack and I now have complete confidence in my jacks. I would also be very comfortable dis-assembling one if a failure should occur while traveling.


Excellent, that's the steps that most of us do...

I use a Battery operated 1/2" drill and adjust the chuck to fit the top of the screw shaft...I can run that screw each direction and lubing extra where needed...

The first time I did mine there were places that the screw would bind and stop....WD, wire brush and elbow grease prevailed and the screw freed up...That was over 9 years ago...

The first time I thought I needed to do something about my jacks was when we were on a trip....Took the camper off and lowered it about 1 ft off the ground....I noticed that the front passenger jack was struggling/groaning....

When I started to put the camper back on the truck....that jack was really struggling....I did not think it was going to make it!!!
This was before we knew how to take them apart!!! I learned!!

Jim

KKELLER14K

BEAVERTON OREGON

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Posted: 08/15/12 01:22am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Just like I said any binding is a bad deal...thanks for the input you all!

meyerz1

Southern California

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Posted: 03/09/13 06:24pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks for the information Kevin!!

Just tore my down, lubed the worm gear, and prepped the tube to be powder-coated. I used the blue marine gear lube. All four were bone dry. The front 2 had lots of corrosion for some reason. The rears looked brand new. Anyway, all the cleaned and ready for reassembly when the outer tubes are painted.


2012 Ram 2500 short bed 6.7 Laramie
2007 Northstar

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