dro1984
Midwest
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Atchafalaya_man wrote:1) Get into the habit of turning off the fuel cutoff valve and letting the carb run out of fuel. NO GAS REMAINING IN THE CARB at the end of the day means nothing from which to form gunk if you leave it in there for too long.
2) Try to use fuel stabilizer each time you purchase gas.
Where is the "fuel shutoff" on the Honda 2000i? I just took delivery of mine and am very excited over this great little Generator!
I know the Yamaha's I looked at have a fuel cut off that you can turn off and continue to run engine until fuel is off. The dealer that was demo'ing the machines, said the engine/fuel on/off switch on the Honda is the only cut-off, but that shuts the engine too? I prefer to run my equipment out of gas by cutting the fuel off?
By the way, this carb cleaning writeup was great! Great job! You guys and gals all rock!! Thanks in advance!
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ShapeShifter
Buffalo, NY
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Joined: 04/03/2007
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dro1984 wrote:Where is the "fuel shutoff" on the Honda 2000i? I just took delivery of mine and am very excited over this great little Generator!
It's built into that big black run/stop rotary knob. Turn that knob to off, and it electrically stops the motor, and mechanically closes the fuel supply valve.
There is also a vent control on the fuel filler cap. You need to make sure to turn that on when you start the generator, or the generator will stop after a few minutes, once it develops a vacuum in the tank and can't suck out any more gas. When shutting down the generator, it's a good practice to also close that vent.
2007 Holiday Rambler Endeavor 40PDQ LE
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bill h
hassayampa valley
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Joined: 08/02/2001
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Atchafalaya_man wrote:1) Get into the habit of turning off the fuel cutoff valve and letting the carb run out of fuel.
Turning the big black knob turns off both fuel and ignition.
How do I turn off the fuel without turning off the ignition?
How about just draining the float bowl?
NOTE: Any incorrect spelling is intentional to prevent those annoying popups.
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Siamese Calvin and Airedale Hobbes, 4WD Toyota toad
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Tennesseepowerstroke
Mt. Juliet, TN
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One of my Honday EU2000 generators began to run rough and had to have the choke half closed. I ran a healthy dose of Sea Foam through it and it cleared up. I have not had any more problems with either generator and they are around 6 years old.
2003 F350 CC DRW 6.0L Torqueshift 4X4 Lariet Moonroof
1997 Mountaineer AWD V8 Moonroof JBL Audio
1993 Holiday Rambler Aulmalite 35'
1989 Stratos 266FS
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curt12914
Bombay NY (5 miles from Quebec, 15 from Ontario)
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I guess I have been lucky. My "twins" set all winter, every winter (4-5 years), with gas in the tank and the carb. I have never had a problem with a dirty carb (yet).
I just got them out a couple weeks ago. I pulled one 15 times and the other 18 times before they started. After I started them, I ran them about 3 hours each with no problems.
I always run Seafoam through the first tank of fresh gas in the spring and I try to remember to put it in the last tank every fall.
2021 F-350 Platinum 4X4 PSD SRW 2016 Montana 3950FL (2) Honda EU2000i's
...and a few (twenty-some, but other than my wife, no one is counting) antique Allis Chalmers tractors
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JDTECH1
CHARLEVOIX, MI
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Nice thread before some go taking your carb apart check with the dealer. As I've cleaned many a carbs working at a JD dealer. Some how lately we can buy carbs for $15 to $25 our cost from the honda dealer for the small HP eng's. At $69/hour I can't clean a carb for that cheap. Wish JD could get their prices down there.
Some have talked about putting sta-bil in their fuel. This is fine but one word of caution. Make sure you follow the direction on the bottle. In the old days if a little was good a little more should be better right. Not so with sta-bil !! If you mix to heavy and the fuel in the carb evaporates. It leaves a sticky gum in the carb that carb cleaner will not touch. Have taken many apart that are junk because of sta-bil being mix to heavy.
When it comes to fuel octane read your OP manual. It will tell you what to run for fuel. Those in the more northern areas that get colder weather. Like diesel fuel, gas has summer and winter grades. So only buy enough fuel for 30 to 60 days. Could go on about fuel forever, but just do a search on fuel storage shelf life.
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mchero
Henniker, NH
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Sidney
EU1000 genset is slightly different. The car cleaner assembly does not remove like the EU2000. You pull the two nuts holding the ductwork from air cleaner to carb & remove. It connect between the Air Cleaner and carb. Once that's removed you have to carefully remove the fuel line. You can then remove the carb. Looks exactly like the EU2K.
I have had my EU1K case stripped down a number of times. Hard part is routing all the cables properly.
I'll be doing a similar writeup on the EU1000. Carb & electrical diagnosis on my writeup.
SidKaye wrote:Ron, thanks for a great post. I have a EU1000i, do you know if the procedure would be the same or similar. Mine has been running rough on ECO and jut today I was searching the net for carb maintenance.
Sidney
Robert McHenry
Currently, Henniker NH
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Reddog1
El Dorado, CA
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mchero, you can add to this Thread, but I suggest starting a new Thread, unique to the 1000. It would be easier to find in a search, and have it's own identity. It would be a great Thread, and valuable to many RV'ers.
Wayne
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thataway
Pensacola, FL
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Good write up. I have been using an almost indentical proceedure for about 5 years. I use Stabil, but if I don't run the Honda every few months, there is some gunk in the carb. Sea Foam helps, but in my experience does not prevent it. Shutting down the engine does not drain the carb, as a fuel shut off valve. Also there may still be some residual even with closing the vent.
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Angel miniature poodle
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bob_b
Souderton, PA
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I just successfully finished the carb cleaning thanks to these well documented procedures. It was much easier than I thought. Thanks, Thanks, Thanks!
'93 Itasca Suncrusier diesel towing a '05 Honda CR-V.
Bob, Pam(DW), Bridget(DD) and Christine(DD)
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