SCVJeff

Santa Clarita, CA.

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Joined: 07/28/2006

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Well that's a start. Can we lobby to get it moved where it will be seen by the masses?
Jeff - WA6EQU
'06 Itasca Meridian 34H, CAT C7/350
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MrTravelDecal

wandering

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Joined: 11/22/2007

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h45wt wrote:
I believe that there is a fuel filter inside the fuel tank as well as the tubular screen in the filler neck. I'd like too change the inside one but haven't been able to figure out where it is. Anyone ever changed it?
I know this is way late but OF COURSE there is a filter in the tank!
You will need to pull the fuel line off of the bottom of the tank. Inside of the little moulded nipple of the plastic tank (that you just pulled the fuel line from) you will find a long and skinny fuel filtering screen. It is no larger in diameter than a pencil. probably a bit thinner actually.
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sleepy

Oak Ridge,Tennessee

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Joined: 04/07/2003

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Excellent write up. You have preformed a very nice service for many of the people on RV.net.
Makes me pesonally glad that I have a propane generator...
Sleepy
2003 Lance 1161,/slideout/AGM batteries/255W Solar/propane generator/Sat dish/2 Fantastic Fans/AC/winter pkg
AirFoil, Trimetric, LED lights, Platcat vent heat
2003GMC K3500 LT/Crewcab/duramax diesel/allison/dually/4x4/OnStar/front reciever mounted spare
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rjsurfer

North Carolina

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Joined: 10/19/2007

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I don't care for these well written technical write ups, sorry.
At least before I read this thread I had an excuse for not cleaning out my Honda carb, now I feel bad every time I run the genny with the choke slid half way over to keep it running.
Ron W
03 Dodge 2500 SRW,SB,EC
2018 Keystone 25RES
DRZ-400SM
DL-650
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bigfootford

Fair Oaks, California

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Joined: 12/03/2002

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Are you running your honda with the choke set 1/2 way to get it to run....Read on:
The emulsifier tube that is part of the jet...which the OP was removing with the screwdriver is where most of the run problems will occur. Something gets in the tube....thus you have to run with the choke slightly closed.....Thats the symptom...
The first time I took my carb apart, 4 years ago, I removed the jet and the tube wouldn't come out. I cupped my hands around the ends of the carb body so i could force air backwards through the ports in the venturi area of the carb.....out came the tube, across the shop, I almost lost it!!!!!! So be careful.
Jim
* This post was
edited 01/30/10 09:49am by bigfootford *
2000 2500 9.6 Bigfoot,94 F250, Vision 19.5, Mich 245/70XDS2's, Bilstein shocks, air bags/pump, EU2000, PD 9260,Lifeline 100ah, 200W. solar, Morningstar Sunsaver 15A/ display panel, Trimetric, Delorme/laptop, Holux gps rec,led lights, Wave-3 heat.
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Atchafalaya_man

Lafayette, Louisiana

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1) Get into the habit of turning off the fuel cutoff valve and letting the carb run out of fuel. NO GAS REMAINING IN THE CARB at the end of the day means nothing from which to form gunk if you leave it in there for too long.
2) Try to use fuel stabilizer each time you purchase gas.
3) Attempt to purchase straight gasoline, rather than ethanol-gas. Ethanol attracts water from humidity in the air and ends up condensing in your gas tank.
a) Gasoline and Water will not mix. Water will puddle in the gas container.
b) Gasoline and Alcohol will mix. No puddle.
c) "Water and Alcohol" mix too. No puddle.
ONCE THEY HAVE MIXED;
d) Gasoline will mix with "Water and Alcohol" , resulting in:
UNSEEN WATER MIXED IN YOUR GAS!
I doubt if any engine is designed for this mix (d), so don't give it to your engine.
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Reddog1

El Dorado, CA

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Joined: 03/09/2004

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Great post on the carb.
I have had my Honda for over five years. It has failed to start four times. The first time, I took it the the Honda shop. They allowed me to watch, while they checked it out. They poured the gas out (with water), replaced the gas, installed a spark plug, and it fired right up. They charged me for a new spark plug.
The other three times, I simply poured the gas and water out, filled it with gas and it fired up. One of those times, I captured the gas/water, when I poured it out. There was less than a teaspoon of water. I did not drain the oil before pouring the water out.
I will only buy the argument of bad gas, if you or I made it bad after we got it. I think condensation in the fuel can is the biggest problem. Try to keep your fuel tank and fuel can full, to reduce the condensation.
Wayne
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mchero

Henniker, NH

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Joined: 11/09/2004

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Note that the EU100 cark looks exactly the same! Should be close to identical to the EU2000. I'll post w simular write up on the EU1000
Thanks!
Robert McHenry
Currently, Henniker NH
07 Fleetwood Discovery 39V
1K Solar dieselrvowners.com
2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee
Prior:1993 Pace Arrow 37' Diesel
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Atchafalaya_man

Lafayette, Louisiana

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Reddog1 wrote:
I will only buy the argument of bad gas, if you or I made it bad after we got it. I think condensation in the fuel can is the biggest problem. Try to keep your fuel tank and fuel can full, to reduce the condensation.
Wayne
Good point Wayne. If stations sold 'bad gas' you'd see vehicles broken down in all directions 1/4 mile from those stations and you'd probably hear about it on the news. Sure it happens but rarely. They have filters on most pumps anyway and at stations that sell a lot of gas, they get refills often from the refinery, sometimes DAILY.
I wonder if people ever LOOK into their almost-empty fuel container before they buy their fuel?
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Matthew_B

The boonies near Dallas, Oregon

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Joined: 08/18/2005

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Atchafalaya_man wrote: a) Gasoline and Water will not mix. Water will puddle in the gas container.
b) Gasoline and Alcohol will mix. No puddle.
c) "Water and Alcohol" mix too. No puddle.
ONCE THEY HAVE MIXED;
d) Gasoline will mix with "Water and Alcohol" , resulting in:
UNSEEN WATER MIXED IN YOUR GAS!
I doubt if any engine is designed for this mix (d), so don't give it to your engine.
Only a little bit of water can be in solution with gasoline and ethanol. After it saturates the alcohol will come out and you'll have puddles of alcohol and water under the gasoline. Methanol is much better at mixing them up. That's why dry gas is methanol and not ethanol.
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