Coast Resorts Open Roads Forum: Honda 2000i Carb Job With Photos Must Read!!!!!
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 > Honda 2000i Carb Job With Photos Must Read!!!!!

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weymard

NORMANDY

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Posted: 04/03/09 02:35am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Great job ! Very interesting and useful ! Thanks !


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Fish 'n ' Grits

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Posted: 04/03/09 04:33am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The only thing I would add is; Keep Sta - Bil in your gas, and run your generator now and then. I know it's easy to forget about it until it's needed (and won't crank!) I try to run mine at least twice a month. I start it and plug in a fan or some other constant load and let it run 15 minutes or so. That seems to keep it happy and ready to start next time.


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AISURFFISH

BERLIN MARYLAND

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Posted: 04/03/09 01:51pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

SidKaye wrote:

Ron, thanks for a great post. I have a EU1000i, do you know if the procedure would be the same or similar. Mine has been running rough on ECO and jut today I was searching the net for carb maintenance.

Sidney


i have no idea what the 1000 carb looks like so i cant comment but the principles are the same.


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capterik

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Posted: 04/03/09 03:09pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Only thing I would add is to do this when you put it away instead of waiting, as shapeshifter found out, when he needed it it didn't work. Great writeup.


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JacintoKid

San Antonio, Texas (formerly sheepdog)

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Posted: 04/03/09 03:10pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks. Mine is way overdue and I was planning on getting this done before we go up to the mountains this summer. You have just made it very easy. Thanks AISURFFISH


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ShapeShifter

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Posted: 04/03/09 03:54pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

capterik wrote:

Only thing I would add is to do this when you put it away instead of waiting, as shapeshifter found out, when he needed it it didn't work.

It didn't let me down -- it worked, it just took several extra pulls. It normally starts on the first or second pull, this time it took a dozen or so. It's not used all the time, but it is used several times a year, and I store it filled with Sta-Bil treated gas.

But it's close to 10 years old now, and even though it's been treated well, it probably could use a good cleaning to bring it back to 100%.

I've been reluctant to touch the carb, but with these great instructions I have no more worries. OK, maybe one worry -- when putting the main jet back, is there any adjustment that needs to be made? Or does it just go back in and the retaining screw gets snugged down?

wnjj

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Posted: 04/03/09 04:22pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

ShapeShifter wrote:

I've been reluctant to touch the carb, but with these great instructions I have no more worries. OK, maybe one worry -- when putting the main jet back, is there any adjustment that needs to be made? Or does it just go back in and the retaining screw gets snugged down?


Just snug it up. The jet diameter is what sets the "adjustment".

wnjj

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Posted: 04/03/09 04:24pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

capterik wrote:

Only thing I would add is to do this when you put it away instead of waiting, as shapeshifter found out, when he needed it it didn't work. Great writeup.


Unless you drain the gas or use fuel stabilizer, it won't do any good to clean it before you put it away. Mine had problems because I put it away and the gas went bad. It was running perfectly when I had used it previously. In my case the carb cleaning was needed to get it running again.

curt12914

Bombay NY (5 miles from Quebec, 15 from Ontario)

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Posted: 04/03/09 05:48pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Great post!!!

However, I don't agree with some of the posts after the original. It's probably a good idea to clean the float bowl periodicaly, but there is no reason to remove the jet unless it's dirty or plugged.

I, also don't put much credence in the "bad gas" theory. I have left untreated gas in my "twins" for several winters. It may have taken a little squirt of gas in the spark plug or through the carb to first get it started, but once they start, I have never had a problem.

Since they have no filter, it's imperative to be careful handling the fuel. I would never use a steel can (that could rust) or never completely empty the can when refilling.

I'm not much for "snake oil", but if they run a little rough, Sea Foam is by far the best stuff I have found. It sure beats tearing the carb apart if you don't have to!


2021 F-350 Platinum 4X4 PSD SRW 2016 Montana 3950FL (2) Honda EU2000i's
...and a few (twenty-some, but other than my wife, no one is counting) antique Allis Chalmers tractors

AISURFFISH

BERLIN MARYLAND

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Posted: 04/04/09 05:57pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Mine prolly did not need to be removed again. it would not start and after i drained the gas i knew why... The gas was almost brown in color and smelled really bad. It was bad gas ... So after the new gas new plug and clean carb it ran as good as new...

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