SidKaye
Mt Dora Florida, Montreal QC for the Summer
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Joined: 09/03/2003
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Well here it is June 23, 2010 nearly 2 years since Les made his wonderful contribution. I have just finished reading all 23 pages and am planning to buy the Kit which fortunately is on sale at Dexter for $149.67. I will have to pay someone to do the job as I do not have any of the required tools, jacks, etc. However I feel confident in discussing how I want it done after reading the many great posts in addition to the original by Les. The pictures are fantastic.
Thanks to all who contributed for a job well done.
Sidney
2003 Dodge Ram 3500 SLT,48RE, 4:10,Cummins HO Diesel,Quad Cab,LWB,SRW,PacBrake,Prodigy, X-Monitor Gauges,Line-X,Bedsaver
2002 Excel,Ltd,30RGW,Hughes Autoformer,Honda Eu1000i, ClearSpot 4G+,
http://www.kayepics.com
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hoghead55
High River, AB
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Joined: 04/09/2010
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I need help with the wet bolt install. I have a huge clamp from my welding buddy but cannot get the bolts to press in flush with the hanger. I am not having a problem pressing the old bolts out. Is there another way to seat the bolts such as using an impact wrench and pulling the bolt in place? I have tried driving the bolt in the last little bit using a sledge hammer and socket but no luck. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated to finish the job.
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RCMAN46
NorthWest
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Joined: 02/24/2008
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hoghead55 wrote:I need help with the wet bolt install. I have a huge clamp from my welding buddy but cannot get the bolts to press in flush with the hanger. I am not having a problem pressing the old bolts out. Is there another way to seat the bolts such as using an impact wrench and pulling the bolt in place? I have tried driving the bolt in the last little bit using a sledge hammer and socket but no luck. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated to finish the job.
Read the first post. The tool from Harbor Freight is shown which does the job. Do not try to pull the bolt in with an impact. You will strip the bolt.
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Jerry9n
SE Michigan
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Joined: 10/28/2008
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Second to the HF tool. I had a couple that were stubborn and had to use a rather large breaker bar on the HF press, but got them seated. I was surprised to see that from the factory several were not seated and several nuts were nowhere near torqued to specs.
You will like the results. Quiets and smooths the ride remarkably.
Jerry9n
2009 23' Cikira Escape EXP
2006 Ford Expedition
Reese Pro Series SC
Tekonsha Primus IQ
HTT Mods
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JBarca
Radnor, Ohio, USA
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Joined: 12/16/2004
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hoghead55 wrote:I need help with the wet bolt install. I have a huge clamp from my welding buddy but cannot get the bolts to press in flush with the hanger. I am not having a problem pressing the old bolts out. Is there another way to seat the bolts such as using an impact wrench and pulling the bolt in place? I have tried driving the bolt in the last little bit using a sledge hammer and socket but no luck. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated to finish the job.
This clamp is about the smallest that will work. It has a 3/4 ACME thread. I have used this on 3 installs and I can attest anything smaller and it will not do the job. The HF ball joint tool I believe and is 1" fine thread. You can get more power with the ball joint tool and if I have to do another one I will buy one.
![[image]](http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/JBarca/T310SR%20Camper%20Upgrades/EZ%20Flex%20Install/17Wetboltinstall.jpg)
A few things that help reduce the power needed:
Try and align the serreated teeth on the new bolt with as many of the prior cut teeth in the hanger. It helps vereses cutting all new teeth in the hanger.
There is 1 limited trick with the C Clamp if you have a 3/4" or larger one to start with. Arranging the head of the bolt to be on the screw side, preload the clamp as much as you can. Use sockets to not mark the grease fitting/hanger. 1 or 2 impacts on the screw using medium force hammer can seat them. Do not whale heavy with a heavy hammer.
You mentioned using the nut to draw in the bolt. No do not do that. The nut is made of low gage metal and will strip out for sure. I riped up several old one taking them off once rusted on.
Good luck and hope this helps
John
John & Cindy
2005 Ford F350 Super Duty, 4x4; 6.8L V10 with 4.10
CC, SB, Lariat & FX4 package
21,000 GCWR, 11,000 GVWR
Ford Tow Command
1,700# Reese HP hitch & HP Dual Cam
2 1/2" Towbeast Receiver
2004 Sunline Solaris T310SR
(I wish we were camping!)
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hoghead55
High River, AB
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Joined: 04/09/2010
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Update on the wet bolt install. I went back and read the entire post again to see if I was missing something. The one thing I did notice was the size of ratchet being used with the ball joint tool so I made a couple of short snipes to use with my large C clamp for more torque. This was the answer, as I had no problem getting the bolts to seat using the snipes. The set up I was using was just like the one in John's picture. This is a great post and thanks for all of the write ups and pictures as they made this job possible. Also, thanks for all of the help the last couple days to keep my project going. I finished the one side today and then completed the other side, start to finish in 3 1/2 hours.
On another note, I was going to buy a ball joint tool to finish the job after I ran into the initial problem but they wanted $120.00 up here for the kit, a little rich for my blood. Once again, thanks to everyone who has contributed to this post.
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TECMike
Texas
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Joined: 01/03/2010
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Just greased my wetbolts for the first time. A few were stubborn about
taking grease. Jacked the trailer up a little to relieve some of the pressure and finally got them to take the grease.
I suspect next time will be easier after they loosen up a bit. Used Valvoline fully synthetic grease.
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kaiserrw
Dyersburg, TN, USA
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Joined: 09/03/2003
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Just wondering if anyone has installed the EZ Flex Equilizer on a trailer with tandem AlKo axles on 35" spacing and a 4" equilizer. I spoke to a Dexter rep yesterday concerning which packaged parts would be appropriate and was told it is doubtful the system could be properly installed to work on my trailer.
Since my 5er does not have Dexter components under it, I can understand their reluctance to assure a potential customer their product will function as desired.
2012 F-250 6.2L gasser, 2015 GrandDesign Reflection 303, SuperGlide, TrailAir Pinbox, AirLift Air Bags
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JBarca
Radnor, Ohio, USA
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Joined: 12/16/2004
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kaiserrw wrote:Just wondering if anyone has installed the EZ Flex Equilizer on a trailer with tandem AlKo axles on 35" spacing and a 4" equilizer. I spoke to a Dexter rep yesterday concerning which packaged parts would be appropriate and was told it is doubtful the system could be properly installed to work on my trailer.
Since my 5er does not have Dexter components under it, I can understand their reluctance to assure a potential customer their product will function as desired.
I have done the EZ flex on my Alko setup but not knowing exactly what you are referring to the 4" equalizer. You mean the monster vertical equalizer? Actually Dexter has one like that too. Is this the one you mean? This is a Dexter.
![[image]](http://pi.b5z.net/i/u/1080235/i/K71-448-00.jpg)
Mine are 32" nominal axle centers. This pic is before my alignment corrections.
![[image]](http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/JBarca/T310SR%20Sunline%20As%20Built/Tire%20Wear/15Axlecentercheck-right.jpg)
And by using the EZ flex in place of the Alko equalizer which was wider left to right I lost some tire clearance, top of tire to bottom of fender. But I corrected for it on the hanger. This clearance issue was also altered by me going from 5,200# axles to 6,000# axles as the 6K's have a beefed up axle seat and drop the camper 1/4" The EZ flex dropped me 1/4" as well with the Alko equalizer so I had 1/2" to make back up.
The Alko laying over top of the Dexter
![[image]](http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/JBarca/T310SR%20Camper%20Upgrades/EZ%20Flex%20Install/EZFlexoveroldEqualizer.jpg)
![[image]](http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/JBarca/T310SR%20Camper%20Upgrades/Axle%20Rebuild/hexboltendassy.jpg)
![[image]](http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/JBarca/T310SR%20Camper%20Upgrades/Axle%20Rebuild/sideviewassy.jpg)
If you are referring to that 4” tall equalizer, you are going to have to do some hanger work similar to the work I did. But if you do, then the EZ flex should work. I doubt you can get it to work and not have a tire to fender issue on the pure stock configuration.
John
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kaiserrw
Dyersburg, TN, USA
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Joined: 09/03/2003
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John,
Thank you for the response. I kept my original question short on info to keep from boring anyone. I had reviewed the work you did on your hangers and I have congratulated you many times in my mind over the past year. If I had the ability to weld mine would look very much the same as yours especially with the load distribution across the frame.
My signature shows what I pull and with what. The unit sits on top the springs and I had 2" box steel inserted between the springs and axles to level the 5er stern-aft when towing. Yesterday I made two cardboard templates the size of the K71-653-00 and K71-652-00 EZ Flex Equalizers (1 ea) per specs Dexter provides guessing at the bolt hole size for 7/16" or .4375" bolts. Also made 2 shackles, guessing at size being 3.5" x 1.25". Attached shackle templates to equilizer templates and hung the unit(s) on the existing 4" equilizer hanger mounting bolt. Result indicates a 1.4" reduction in overall 5er height; which does not present a tire-to-fender problem, but counters the 2" original lift for towing.
It appears I have 4 options. 1) Trade for a new 5er, 2) Learn to weld, 3) Find a capable person to weld the mod, 4) Install HD suspension parts from Dexter having improvement over plastic bushings. Option 3 being more difficult than it should be or else I'm just too picky about QA, but I'm not going to change at my age.
Thank you for your posts, pics showing excellent processes/work/mods, and support. You and Les always take the time to help others as we all make our way.
R. Kaiser
USACE Retread
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