Glamping
Washington state
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Joined: 06/16/2016
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We are so close to being done with our cool mods (I think)! We just returned from a one week glamping trip and came home with a few more mods to make. I need the shower head lowered, so DH is going to add a lower bracket. We also want to add an extension cord for a power strip to be located in the corner of the bedroom. None of the outlets are located where we want them, so we have already run 4 power strip extensions. We also want a plug in motion sensor night light in the bathroom. We tried a battery powered one, but we apparently used it too much and the batteries didn't last long enough. We did add motion sensor lighting to the closet and also at the "front" door so we can more easily read the holding tank levels and labels for the different switches. Small adds, but they make a big difference.
We've also added six drawers where there were only cupboard doors before. DH used high quality glides, and they are truly wonderful!
Too many other upgrades to list here.
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RedRocket204
Colorado mountains - Got trail?
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Joined: 05/22/2010
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I have a bunkhouse trailer with two bunks. Just added to each bunk USB ports that can be turned on/off with a switch. Reason for the switch is the USB ports have LEDs to show they are active and I didn't want an additional parasitic draw from those ports while boondocking. I do realize it would have been a minimal draw, but with the switches there is no draw and every little bit counts. I was able to feed each bunk off of the 12V lights on the ceiling.
![[image]](http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii301/_RedRocket_/IMG_1789_zpsraudzxkl.jpg)
I love me some land yachting
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53chevy
Idaho
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Joined: 06/22/2017
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Beachums, I know this is an old post, but is there a chance you could please provide a few details on your battery box? Such as how you secure the batteries and how and where your wiring exits the box? Thanks.
Beachums wrote:chr$ wrote:Folks, I am looking at having a custom battery box made for my TT.
Is there interest in having a tongue box that can hold 4 GC2 batteries with vents and divided compartments for tools, inverter, etc. that is narrower than the current available tongue boxes?
Typical tongue boxes only are wide enough for a couple of batteries. No reason they cannot extend out each side of the tongue as our trailers are up to 8 feet wide.
These would be aluminum diamond plate, with weatherproof hinged lids, and two hasps to secure the goods inside.
I am thinking of having 5 made to reduce the overall unit cost.
What would such a box be worth to you?
![[image]](http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/500/battery_box_72.png)
![[image]](http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/500/battery_box_72_side.png)
Do you mean something like this?
![[image]](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-HAeOReSLPrM/Vx2kBH5OgKI/AAAAAAAAI4I/2G9UbY3G4rACNMMHD1PUpCvHSdBxcjnAwCCo/s1600/20140622_183452.jpg)
![[image]](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2IswqCdNPaA/Vx2kBo_joCI/AAAAAAAAI4A/iAxsxeiozlM73EI-ZSLh35GD3MV1hQV5QCCo/s1152/20140622_183523.jpg)
Allan
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53chevy
Idaho
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Joined: 06/22/2017
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chr$ wrote:Well, I did the passthru slideout tray this weekend. I used mostly leftover materials from a shipping crate. All I bought were the casters and two 1x3's for the top of the rails.
I'll be sanding, staining, and clearcoating it after this weekend's camping trip. It holds my Camp Chef 30,000 BTU stove, Solaire infared grill, tool bag, EZ-up, and assorted other things. I have a leg for it to bring it out all the way, basically a 2x4 with a hole drilled every inch for about 2 ft so I can set it on any surface.
It isn't the fully OMG outdoor kitchen, but this way, it holds more. It is 6' with 8' runners so I can put large items on the other end separate of this, and It is 4" off the floor so I can fit a 2'x4' lifetime folding table and grill tool kit underneath it.
It slides out both ways to access the table.
I will be adding some 2" PVC pipes the length of the passthrough for fishing poles and High Power Rocket Launch Rail storage.
It's about a $40 project, and took me about 4 Hrs.
![[image]](https://scontent.fphx1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtp1/v/t1.0-9/12109272_10204467977331076_7673447802946796843_n.jpg?oh=bfbfbfd087ce4216a2807028f1338441&oe=568D66B4)
![[image]](https://scontent.fphx1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/12118628_10204467977451079_6284448888150577025_n.jpg?oh=f0bf641803907efbcd557f579c8c1811&oe=568B33FA)
![[image]](https://scontent.fphx1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xta1/v/t1.0-9/12107834_10204467977811088_8088272658283041206_n.jpg?oh=a3d3ab92f6072292aa8a8edba0ab7d1e&oe=5692D0CF)
Next project: Adding internal drawers to the stupid 10" wide by 24" deep by 62" tall three shelf pantry-black-hole-endless cabinet-full-of cr*p next to the refrigerator.
Chr$, I know this is an old post, unfortunately the pics are not accessible anymore. Any chance of posting these pics again? I'm really curious as to what your pull out looks like. Thanks.
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PennyPA
Out There Somewhere
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Joined: 03/11/2002
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I second that request!!!
COPD and LVRS
On the Road Again
My Home - 2002 Glendale Titanium, 32/37DS with a basement slide.
Our Home's Leader - Dodge Ram 3500 Cummins Turbo Diesel Dually
Our Leaders - Sam(Bird), Chirp(Bird), Nellie(FAT cat), Lucy(Kitten), Willie(Dog) & Daisy(Dog)
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pchartrand
Michigan
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Joined: 02/17/2012
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PennyPA wrote:I second that request!!!
I second the second!......
2014 Keystone Bullet Premier 22RBPR
2017 Chevy Colorado (Duramax)
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chr$
Arizona
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Joined: 02/14/2013
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Lemme see if I can dig them up
-CHR$
1996 Safari Sahara Edition 35' Diesel Pusher. Just getting the Solar stuff started.
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chr$
Arizona
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Joined: 02/14/2013
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Couldn't find them, Here is a link to the site where I put them and it includes a lot of the other mods I did.
Photos Here![[image]](http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/6317/medium/IMG_15671.JPG)
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53chevy
Idaho
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Joined: 06/22/2017
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Thanks! That's a great idea.
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nadkaw1957
Reno
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Joined: 07/07/2010
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Here is how I built my storage slide:
![[image]](http://i68.tinypic.com/2i235aa.jpg)
![[image]](http://i65.tinypic.com/25tyix0.jpg)
![[image]](http://i64.tinypic.com/6xu5hf.jpg)
![[image]](http://i66.tinypic.com/zujmlh.jpg)
All lumber is cut to length according to your space. The plywood width is cut to accommodate your door width. The 1X4 height can be adjusted to whatever height you need to clear the door frame.
Glue and screw the lower 1X2 to the 1X4 to act as a base.
Drill and screw the 1½” angle aluminum to the top of the 1X4, allowing just enough room for the ½” plywood to slip in between the angle and the lumber. You don’t want it TOO tight, but it needs to be snug. Screw the base to the trailer floor at the appropriate place to allow clearance through the door frame. Make sure it is lined up to the door frames on both sides of the trailer if you want to access it from either side and make sure that the slides are parallel and square to each other.
Measure the width from the inside of one angle aluminum to the inside of the other to determine the width of the plywood. Again, you want it to be snug, but not so tight as to hinder movement. Cut it to the correct width and slide it in. Mark the inside edge of the 1X4 on the bottom of the plywood, then glue and screw the upper 1X2’s to the bottom. This will act as a guide as it slides, as well as adding strength to the length of the plywood. If your door is wide, you may want to add another 1X2 to the center of the plywood for more linear strength.
Drill 1” holes in the center at each end of the plywood for someplace to grip.
I am able to pull the slide out more than halfway with little to no sagging. I also installed plastic bins at each end and another in the middle to keep things organized. The plywood is snug enough that it won’t slide either direction on its own, so there was no need for latches of any kind.
* This post was
edited 07/21/17 06:52am by nadkaw1957 *
2018 Grand Design Imagine 2250RK
2018 Toyota Tundra 5.7L
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