bighatnohorse
Cave Creek
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Joined: 01/15/2005
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Summerizing? It's 115 and 115+ outside this week in Arizona. It's hot enough that the label adhesive on the antiseptic bottle melts in the car and the label slips away.
The roof shingles would probably slide off the roof if they weren't nailed on.
I need to set and leave the air conditioning on in the house before leaving for the summer.
I'm thinking 90-degrees.
Any suggestions as to what to set the AC temp?
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pawatt
Brainerd MN / Palmview TX
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bighatnohorse wrote:Summerizing? It's 115 and 115+ outside this week in Arizona. It's hot enough that the label adhesive on the antiseptic bottle melts in the car and the label slips away.
The roof shingles would probably slide off the roof if they weren't nailed on.
I need to set and leave the air conditioning on in the house before leaving for the summer.
I'm thinking 90-degrees.
Any suggestions as to what to set the AC temp?
we do 88 in south texas
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BarbaraOK
On The Road
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Joined: 10/27/2003
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bighatnohorse wrote:Summerizing? It's 115 and 115+ outside this week in Arizona. It's hot enough that the label adhesive on the antiseptic bottle melts in the car and the label slips away.
The roof shingles would probably slide off the roof if they weren't nailed on.
I need to set and leave the air conditioning on in the house before leaving for the summer.
I'm thinking 90-degrees.
Any suggestions as to what to set the AC temp?
Why haven't you left already? We leave the mid to end of April. Since our Park Model is old, we just shut off the water, shut off the power, cover every thing, put blackout curtains in the windows to cut down on sun infiltration and go. We have someone check on it all summer, and they turn on the water and power about 3-4 days before we arrive back, usually the first of October.
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bighatnohorse
Cave Creek
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BarbaraOK wrote:bighatnohorse wrote:Summerizing? It's 115 and 115+ outside this week in Arizona. It's hot enough that the label adhesive on the antiseptic bottle melts in the car and the label slips away.
The roof shingles would probably slide off the roof if they weren't nailed on.
I need to set and leave the air conditioning on in the house before leaving for the summer.
I'm thinking 90-degrees.
Any suggestions as to what to set the AC temp?
Why haven't you left already? We leave the mid to end of April. Since our Park Model is old, we just shut off the water, shut off the power, cover every thing, put blackout curtains in the windows to cut down on sun infiltration and go. We have someone check on it all summer, and they turn on the water and power about 3-4 days before we arrive back, usually the first of October.
We're tethered to Mayo Clinic for treatments.
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rerod
Iowa
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baconnokie wrote:Just one addition. Depending on where you live of course. We live in Iowa and where it gets 20 to 30 below zero and one winter we went to Calif. My son called and said we had a frozen lake in the yard. The watermeter froze and broke!! We had a mess. In contacting the rural water company where we live, they said they would shut off water and REMOVE the meter for no charge and when we returned would put it back in at no charge. That is what we will do this Winter to be safe.
New subject...........we plan on going to Victoria, Texas with a 5th wheel. Anyone stay there? We heard it's so crowded in the valley is the reason. Wanted Rockport but couldn't get any recommendations there.
Ive been dreaming about heading south from Iowa in a camper during the winter after I retire, but even after you blow out all the waterlines or design the plumbing to drain and winterize every appliance etc, Ive been told the frost heave could damage the foundation of a home if you turn your heat off.
That's were I'm at.. Designing a small retirement home/shop that I could leave unheated from November to April.
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Fizz
Ottawa, Canada
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Joined: 07/28/2003
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rerod wrote: Ive been told the frost heave could damage the foundation of a home if you turn your heat off.
Never heard of that before, ever.
I have a cottage that we don't use in Winter anymore. We shut down at the end of October and go back early April.
It has no heat all winter, never had a problem, it gets to -30C more often than not. It's been 35 yrs now.
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rerod
Iowa
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Fizz wrote:rerod wrote: Ive been told the frost heave could damage the foundation of a home if you turn your heat off.
Never heard of that before, ever.
I have a cottage that we don't use in Winter anymore. We shut down at the end of October and go back early April.
It has no heat all winter, never had a problem, it gets to -30C more often than not. It's been 35 yrs now.
Thanks Fizz.
What I'm gathering, is that your basement walls are "probably" safe if your footings are below the frost line. But if your slab in a garage doesn't have foam and the soil freezes, moist soil can heave the slab. Only way to prevent that is to use insulation but insects including termites love to tunnel in foam. https://www.jlconline.com/how-to/foundations/special-report-insect-infestations-in-buried-foam_o
"Unfortunately, it could take years to field-test any proposed cures. For now, the best solution is to steer clear of below-grade foam altogether."
Any idea how cold it actually gets inside your home when its -30 outside?
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Fizz
Ottawa, Canada
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My cottage sits on 12 concrete pilings that go down to bedrock 6 ft bellow grade.
When its -30 outside its also -30 inside. Everything is frozen solid and takes a full day to thaw out. It's one of the reasons why we don't go up in winter. The quickest way to heat it up is put the kettle on and let it steam away to moisten up the air. When we go home we leave the doors open while we pack up to let all the moist air out.
We retired 18 yrs ago and spend the summer there, 4-6 months so we don't miss it in winter.
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JaxDad
Greater Toronto Area
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Fizz wrote:rerod wrote: Ive been told the frost heave could damage the foundation of a home if you turn your heat off.
Never heard of that before, ever.
I have a cottage that we don't use in Winter anymore. We shut down at the end of October and go back early April.
It has no heat all winter, never had a problem, it gets to -30C more often than not. It's been 35 yrs now.
Frost heave is a very real issue, but not one you can make a ‘blanket statement’ over.
There are so many factors involved, full sun, full shade, sun on just one area, dry soil, sand, clay, etc, etc. that can make a huge affect on the whole process.
The frost heave issue arises when there’s a constant freeze / thaw cycle with damp soil, the moisture causes expansion of the soil, the next thaw cycle causes more moisture to fill the voids and the next freeze cycle causes more expansion.
It mostly affects foundations that are more exposed to the atmosphere, like piers or shallow ‘rat walls’.
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