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| Topic: B+ motorhomes |
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Posted By: Orion_42
on 12/11/14 08:05am
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I have a similar model and I found that the clearance lights above the cab had a leak as well as the seam where the rubber roof meets the fiberglass cowling. The other leak area I had was at the back and I had to do extensive treatment around the bathroom skylight as it's an area where water can puddle. I used that foil tape with the sticky black stuff on one side (it was discussed back in this long thread somewhere).
---------------------- 2001 Trail Lite B+ 211 |
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Posted By: cheeze1
on 12/11/14 01:05pm
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The water tank was the problem in mine. Certain fittings are friction welded to the tank, and if they are not done properly they leak, mimicking leaks from outside. I decided to try a fix, so I drained the tank, made sure it was completely dry, reset the fitting that attached to the leaking one, and then used The best aquarium silicone I could get. After letting it all dry for a few days I tried it and it never leaked after. Sometimes the input hose is not lined up properly, they are usually very cheap like you find on an inexpensive swimming pool. I replaced mine with neoprene hose and used good-quality hose clamps. Hope this helps and good luck!
Chas Morristown, NJ Trail Lite ">
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Posted By: mstanis
on 12/11/14 07:28pm
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Gene Yes it is that model. My understanding is that unit was in one family, grandpa->father->son. It had a little under 22K miles when I bought it last May. Orion_42 & cheeze1 Thanks for the valuable info. I have been working at a Habitat Cara-A-Vanners build here in FL this week. Next week will be vacation time, and I hope to look at some of the areas mentioned. I'm thinking it is the water pump. It is no longer mounted to the floor, it appears the mounting hardware broke. I have a plastic container under the pump. I did drive through a lot of rain last weekend however, which made me wonder. 2001 Trail-Lite B-Plus 211 w/ 5.7L Chevy
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Posted By: cheeze1
on 12/11/14 07:58pm
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Anytime mstanis. there are lots of opportunities for stray water infiltration. They will drive you crazy. |
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Posted By: Gene in NE
on 12/12/14 10:51am
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mstanis wrote: That is a low mileage unit. We are close to 50k miles. Our floorplan is slightly different, so not sure how easy it would be to get to your water pump. Ours is under the dinette and can be seen by taking off the cushions and lifting up the thin plywood cover. Our water pump sits on rubber bushings and is bolted down to the wood floor underneath. If yours is not mounted, you likely have holes in your wood floor allowing rainwater to be splashed up onto your floor. Our pump looks a lot like this one - Camping World water pump
Gene Yes it is that model. My understanding is that unit was in one family, grandpa->father->son. It had a little under 22K miles when I bought it last May. Orion_42 & cheeze1 Thanks for the valuable info. I have been working at a Habitat Cara-A-Vanners build here in FL this week. Next week will be vacation time, and I hope to look at some of the areas mentioned. I'm thinking it is the water pump. It is no longer mounted to the floor, it appears the mounting hardware broke. I have a plastic container under the pump. I did drive through a lot of rain last weekend however, which made me wonder. 2002 Trail-Lite Model 211-S w/5.7 Chevy (click View Profile) Gene |
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Posted By: quietjake
on 12/13/14 09:23pm
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Gene/forum 213ers: our year camping in our 23' 2004 model was marred a bit by some unexpected repairs. One foray over Santiam Pass ended with a dead RV. The tow bill was $400+/- but ins paid. The errant (Chevrolet) fuel pump @ nearly $1k was unexpected. Shortly thereafter, discovered badly rim cracked tires, whole set cost $1200. Then the controller brain for the power step required major transplant surgery. Hope this isn't a trend. I still haven't figured out how to run the Visio flat screen. Have 'mostly' remedies the fold-out sofa bed, but still have a bit of a sag of nearly 2". Been seeking fixes but haven't come across adequate hardware or a support/ledger board to keep the intersection where it meets the dinette seat. Divine foam pads make sleeping much better, yet there remains this bit of sag. Continue looking for some kind of fold-out hardware that folds out of way during day. May just have to break down & bolt a piece on the aisle-side seat panel to support the folded-down sofa bed end. In any case, Merry Christmas to all. |
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Posted By: Teacher's Pet
on 12/13/14 09:54pm
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Bought our 213 during April 2012 with 8K miles. Had the fuel pump go in July 2012, second time out at a cost of about $800. Had bought new tires in May 2012 about $1200 for (7). Took the 213 to Alaska 2013 w/o any problems in 11,200 miles. I made supports for the jack-knife soft using 2" schedule 80 PVC and 2" to 4" schedule 80 PVC couplings. 2" PVC pipe is slotted to fit frame of the sofa. I have a 1/4" sheet of plywood the size of the table (fits under a dinette cushion) that I lay over the crack between the sofa and knocked down dinette. On top of that we put a throw. We sleep on a $25 queen air mattress, 8" high, on the Alaska trip we had to purchase a new mattress due to air leak at night 77 of 79 out. We have a sleep sack my wife made and use a 20° queen sleeping bag as a cover.
'06 Phaeton 40' QSH '14 Ford Flex SEL AWD Toad '04 R-Vision Trail-Lite 213 Scottiemom's Pet or husband to Dale RV.net Rallies 13, Other Rallies 21, Escapades 7 Fulltimers since 2005, Where are we? Our Travel Blog |
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Posted By: Orion_42
on 12/14/14 06:42am
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I'm starting to think I should replace my fuel pump in my 2001 w/47K miles before my next long trip. EDIT: Changed my mind after reading this post below from another forum....I'll change the filter NOW!.... "The Technical Bulletin is #04-06-04-088C Aug 24 2006 and can easily be found by Googling. Note that GM only found problems with the square Metri Pack 150 connector. - Not the GT 280 connector. The GT280 connector is the one currently used on replacements - Delphi and ACD for sure. Nevertheless, since its CLEAR the pump draws lots of amps before it croaks, IMHO, replacing an old GT280 with a new one is a lot easier than dropping the tank again in a year for another dead pump. I am not so sure the Metri Pack connector was so bad, but GM did not anticipate that users would (1) NOT change the fuel filter ever and (2) run the pump dry; which causes the pump to draw more amps fighting against******in the old filter. The connector burns/arcs from the amps - raising resistance in the circuit and then the resistance causes the pump to die. In other words, the GT280 connector seems to do a better job of handing higher than designed for amps. Let me make one last pitch for fuel filters. I have seen 88-2003 GM trucks and burbs goes 150k+ with no fuel pump problems IF the fuel filter is changed every 20k/once a year AND the tank does not go below 1/4 or so. The ACD pro stainless steel filters are only $8 (use new O rings - 84 cents at the dealer). Delphi and Carter now state that install of a new pump or module without a new inline filter instantly voids warranty." * This post was edited 12/14/14 08:02am by Orion_42 * |
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Posted By: quietjake
on 12/14/14 08:03pm
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TP: re: "I made supports for the jack-knife soft using 2" schedule 80 PVC and 2" to 4" schedule 80 PVC couplings. 2" PVC pipe is slotted to fit frame of the sofa. I have a 1/4" sheet of plywood the size of the table (fits under a dinette cushion) that I lay over the crack between the sofa and knocked down dinette. On top of that we put a throw." I'd love to see photos illustrating that frame. I'm having troubles visualizing the application of the slotted PVC. Maybe I can cobble something suitable together. We did get a Coleman air mattress...while it was 'better' it really didn't serve out needs very well. Got the little 12V air pump, could have used that back about 50 years ago... |
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Posted By: Gene in NE
on 12/14/14 08:28pm
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Orion_42 wrote: Seems as though you have some good information, but I'm a little bothered by this link http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/Bluego........29_230146_connector_update_fuel_pump.pdf as it does not include the Chevy 3500 express which many of us have. That does not mean it does not apply. I also am concerned as our 2002 has almost 50k miles and I have not changed the fuel filter. Sometimes I operate on the philosophy that if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
I'm starting to think I should replace my fuel pump in my 2001 w/47K miles before my next long trip. EDIT: Changed my mind after reading this post below from another forum....I'll change the filter NOW!.... "The Technical Bulletin is #04-06-04-088C Aug 24 2006 and can easily be found by Googling. Note that GM only found problems with the square Metri Pack 150 connector. - Not the GT 280 connector. The GT280 connector is the one currently used on replacements - Delphi and ACD for sure. Nevertheless, since its CLEAR the pump draws lots of amps before it croaks, IMHO, replacing an old GT280 with a new one is a lot easier than dropping the tank again in a year for another dead pump. I am not so sure the Metri Pack connector was so bad, but GM did not anticipate that users would (1) NOT change the fuel filter ever and (2) run the pump dry; which causes the pump to draw more amps fighting against******in the old filter. The connector burns/arcs from the amps - raising resistance in the circuit and then the resistance causes the pump to die. In other words, the GT280 connector seems to do a better job of handing higher than designed for amps. Let me make one last pitch for fuel filters. I have seen 88-2003 GM trucks and burbs goes 150k+ with no fuel pump problems IF the fuel filter is changed every 20k/once a year AND the tank does not go below 1/4 or so. The ACD pro stainless steel filters are only $8 (use new O rings - 84 cents at the dealer). Delphi and Carter now state that install of a new pump or module without a new inline filter instantly voids warranty." |
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