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Topic: B+ motorhomes

Posted By: Snowman9000 on 06/09/13 06:15am

Thanks guys, very helpful.


Currently RV-less but not done yet.


Posted By: Teacher's Pet on 06/09/13 10:44pm

We're about 3800 miles into our Alaska trip, parked at SueT's cabin west of Whitehorse in the Yukon Territory for the night. The 213 is doing well, only recurring problem so far is a leaking PressurePro sensor, the sensor has a big bulge on the top today, will program an extra sensor tomorrow. The 2 - 6 volt AGM batteries have been an excellent addition. The batteries are staying at almost 100% over night while dry camping in the mid 40's, while using the furnace set at 65°. The electric water heater rod modification is supplying plenty of hot water when on shore-power. We rotated the dump valve 90° up, for the black tank last Monday, extra clearance will be handy when loading on ferries. We had ground off about a ½" off the lower corner on a campsite approach last week. Picked up new dump valves just in case.


'06 Phaeton 40' QSH
'14 Ford Flex SEL AWD Toad
'04 R-Vision Trail-Lite 213
Scottiemom's Pet or husband to Dale
RV.net Rallies 13, Other Rallies 21, Escapades 7
Fulltimers since 2005, Where are we?
Our Travel Blog


Posted By: Snowman9000 on 06/10/13 06:16am

I love to hear about Alaska trips.

Yeah, a two battery tray would not be hard for a welder to make and install. That's high on my list. AGMs would seem almost essential given the poor access. We dry camped last year in our 213 for a couple of different nights, and one healthy battery did fine, though. We have put in ebay-sourced LEDs, and that made a huge difference in drawdown.


Posted By: Snowman9000 on 06/12/13 05:46am

Preventive repair time for TL owners.

On my Trail Lite 213, the rear cargo door is starting to show delamination across the bottom. Water is getting into the door panel. I found water sitting in the bottom of the aluminum channel frame that holds the filon panel. Once there is water there, it has nowhere to go but to be soaked up by the wood behind the filon.

I discovered two ways that water can get into/onto that lip. First, if I don't lock the upper (keyed) lock, it doesn't hold the upper part of the door tight against the gasket. I rarely leave it unlocked, but it could have been the problem.

Second, this door was designed to be mounted horizontal, not vertical. What would be weep holes in the bottom of the frame are now in the side of the frame. They are near the exterior edge, and in a prolonged rain, could probably take in a few ounces of water. Which would run down and sit in the bottom of the door as mentioned above.

Here is a photo of the holes. I'm going to plug them with caulk or cover them with eternabond, and drill a couple of new weep holes on the bottom. I would recommend others consider doing the same.

(You can't see the delam in the photo. It's a bulge across the bottom, buy only raised about 1/8", on both the outside and inside filon pieces.)

[image]


Posted By: burlmart on 06/12/13 07:39am

Snowman,

You are amazing w/ such analyses of details.

Thanls, I will look at mine.


2005 Trail Lite 213 B-Plus w/ 6.0 Chevy



Posted By: Snowman9000 on 06/12/13 08:17am

burlmart wrote:

Snowman,

You are amazing w/ such analyses of details.

Thanls, I will look at mine.


Well, this is our 4th RV and I keep learning new ways that the companies cut corners. :/

The TL has a lot of good stuff but to get it into the second decade we are going to have to pay attention to some of the cut corners. Most of which involve poorly protected filon. I'm coming to hate the word filon.
[emoticon]


Posted By: burlmart on 06/12/13 12:46pm

I see no delam bulging. Our TL has spent most of its time under a roof, so that helped.

My 90 degree silicons caulk just ooed down the inside of the two existing

If you think of a simple everyday item to plug them, let us know. holes


Posted By: Snowman9000 on 06/12/13 02:00pm

Eternabond tape, or aluminum tape. I used eternabond today.


Posted By: ron.dittmer on 06/12/13 02:29pm

Snowman9000,

You should be able to adjust the top lockset latch by simply bending it slightly. If you think you are adding too much stress on the door, then unscrew it and bend it off the rig.

Your door system is extremely common in the RV industry. You'd have to spend really big money on a high-end rig to get a better door system. Most of us are in your boat, me included. Fortunately I have not yet had any such trouble. I did adjust my latches so my two sealed/gasketed doors require a bit of a push at the lock with my other hand while turning the key to assure the gasket makes good contact.

You got the right idea on drilling two new pin-holes at the bottom. But I would leave the side drain holes alone, allowing the inside of the door to breathe. If that is later determined a bad idea, then dab them with a little silicone caulk which is easy enough to do anytime, even during a trip.


2007 Phoenix Cruiser model 2350, with 2006 Jeep Liberty in-tow


Posted By: ron.dittmer on 06/12/13 02:34pm

Snowman9000 wrote:

...a two battery tray would not be hard for a welder to make and install. That's high on my list.
Our PC has an off-the-shelf 2 battery tray. I think you could easily order one, with or without drawer glides. If you want, I could get the manufactures name and maybe part number off mine which has latches and glides.


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