Coast Resorts Open Roads Forum: Class C Motorhomes: B+ motorhomes

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Topic: B+ motorhomes

Posted By: Teacher's Pet on 08/28/12 01:35pm

Snowman9000 Re: fuel. The generator problems started after about an hour.and a half of use, one day it just wouldn't start and run, when we were going to do a shake down run to an FMCA rally in the Rockford IL area. So we took our "house" instead. The in tank fuel pump acted up after about 3000 miles of use which included a trip to up-state Vermont for a rally. We put most of the 4200 miles on it in the past 45 days. Plus we've run almost 400 gallons of gasoline through the fuel systems, so we hope all those problems are by us now.

'06 Phaeton 40' QSH
'14 Ford Flex SEL AWD Toad
'04 R-Vision Trail-Lite 213
Scottiemom's Pet or husband to Dale
RV.net Rallies 13, Other Rallies 21, Escapades 7
Fulltimers since 2005, Where are we?
Our Travel Blog

Posted By: Snowman9000 on 08/28/12 07:18pm

Rats. Well I will hope we get lucky.

Currently RV-less but not done yet.

Posted By: Snowman9000 on 08/29/12 06:07am

Ooops, nevermind.

* This post was edited 08/29/12 06:54am by Snowman9000 *

Posted By: Snowman9000 on 08/29/12 06:45am

Here she is. As our daughter calls it, the cramper:
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Posted By: burlmart on 08/29/12 08:01am

You stole my RV

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2005 Trail Lite 213 B-Plus w/ 6.0 Chevy

Posted By: Snowman9000 on 08/29/12 11:42am

Guilty!
Hey Burl, why no wheelcovers?

Posted By: Snowman9000 on 08/30/12 10:27am

I got the steps working.

BTW you Trail Lite owners should do some PM on the electrical connections. TL omitted a waterproof clamshell shown on the Kwikee parts diagram. It was supposed to go over the two wire connections I'm going to describe. There are two orange wires coming off the chassis which connect to black wires on the Kwikee. One for the step light and one for the control module. Their connectors are basic plastic covered spades and females of same. I had to pull them apart and put them back together to get power to the step and light. They were dirty but not corroded, but whatever, they were not working. I filled them with dielectric grease and called it good for now. Really there should not be ANY of the crimp type connectors used underneath a vehicle, exposed to the elements. I also re-did the ground wires because they were very shoddy and did not look healthy.

Anyhoo, once I got power, the step was still frozen. I took the whole motor and gearbox off (four bolts), and got the step freed up and lubed. Everything works great now. Well, except the step light. Which is funny because it worked when the step was frozen. I checked the bulb and it's fine. I'll let it go for now and see if there is a gremlin that goes away later.
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This more or less completes the list of things (we know of) that didn't work at the purchase. I still haven't put water in it to check out the plumbing side of things, though. We are getting excited to take it somewhere soon.

Posted By: burlmart on 08/30/12 11:47am

Lost one rear in Missouri and decided to go without. It puzzles me how everyone gets all worked up about how important it is to acknowledge that a Class C MH is a coach built on a truck chassis, then hide the fact by making it look like some shiny car.

Be the C, or borrowing from Luther...

C Boldly!

Posted By: Teacher's Pet on 08/31/12 04:07am

Hey Burl..How did you weather the storm?
My cousin's fishing camp down at Leeville sat in the "eye" for 5 hours.
No word yet about any damages, since he is snug with his boats up at Zachary.

Posted By: Snowman9000 on 08/31/12 11:05am

Whoever winterized our TL 213 did not know what they were doing. They put antifreeze in the fresh tank, where it doesn't belong, and left water in the water heater instead of draining it. When I drained the water heater and saw the water come out, I thought "oh oh, but at least it still is holding water, anyway".

I removed the fresh tank to get all of the pink stuff out. Not too bad a job. Then when I filled the tank and turned on the pump, water started coming out of the water heater somewhere. Fortunately I got it shut off before too much came out. I turned the AC on and am running a fan in the cabinet.

Jeesh. So I have to pull the water heater and weld or replace the tank. Well, I knew there were going to be issues.

From what I can see, these units are not meant to do the wet winterizing method. Not only would they need a siphon valve kit, but also a valve at the water heater.

I'm also very curious about the panel that apparently was once stapled in place to prevent access to the lower portion of the undersink cabinet. (Where the water heater is.) It says Not A Storage Area (or cabinet or something), and Low Point Drain. How did they expect the person to pull the drain???? I guess you could remove the drawers to the side and reach around. Not to mention it can be a perfectly safe storage area with just a little carpentry. RV builders do stuff that makes me crazy.

* This post was edited 08/31/12 05:37pm by Snowman9000 *

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