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Topic: B+ motorhomes

Posted By: cheeze1 on 06/27/09 06:31pm

Artum, yes there is a extra heavy duty wire. It looks like #10 or 8. There is another like it that was likely the culprit. I have a friend who is an Electrical Engineer and he corroborated all of your advice and concerns. Thank you.
Burl, replace the cord. It's sold at Camper's World and most campgrounds with little stores carry them. As for the screws, tighten all of them. The buss bar is not so much a tube but a bar with tapped holes. I believe most are aluminum and that's the 'rub'. Aluminum wire and other implements have been a problem for the electrical industry. I had a house that was wired with aluminum wire. We had to pigtail off every connection, crimping them to copper leads. Some of the connections, which were NOT subjext to the movement of a motorhome, broke off before I could unscrew them. Just the "movement' from heat expansion was enough to fatigue the metal. So, since our 'houses' bump and jiggle down the road, we have to be more vigilant...something I will be from now on!


Chas Morristown, NJ
Trail Lite

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Posted By: Artum Snowbird on 06/27/09 07:01pm

Burlmart,

You can just replace the cord cap. Likely at Home Depot you can buy another plug and just replace the moulded one that heats up. It is likely just as said, the wires connect to the metal strips inside the moulding, and fray away with time, causing heat and sometimes fires.

There are many different types all rated for different amps, phase, voltage, etc... so be sure to read the type on your present cord cap before you head to the store, and look up the lettering on the internet to confirm that is what you have.

I found this site... http://www.ervparts.com/rv-power-cords-outlets-adapters.htm#RV%20Extension%20/%20Power%20Cords%20-%2030%20Amp

Mike


Mike
2012 Winnebago Impulse Silver 26QP
2005 16.6 Double Eagle
2018 Jeep Wrangler JK
previously Snowbird Campers,
Triple E Motorhome and Fifth Wheel


Posted By: My Roadtrek on 06/27/09 07:05pm

See this thread in CVC.
http://www.trailerlife.com/cforum/index.........d/21670682/gotomsg/21674302.cfm#21674302


Posted By: cheeze1 on 06/28/09 07:20am

Rodger, thanks for the reference. Looks very similar.

* This post was edited 06/28/09 10:14am by an administrator/moderator *


Posted By: burlmart on 06/28/09 12:09pm

Thanks all. Good to see you here with us, Rodger, and thanks for the post. Now with you and Cheese suffering the same thing, I will be double motivated to check ours.

Cheese, will I have a hard time accessing the bus bars - I assume they are under my dinette seat that backs up to the kitchen (behind the breaker panel in the 'hallway')?

Artum, are you saying there are important differences among 3 prong 30A replacement plugs that I will need to research?


2005 Trail Lite 213 B-Plus w/ 6.0 Chevy



Posted By: cheeze1 on 06/28/09 01:20pm

Burl, your breaker/fuse panel should be under your rear dinette seat right next to the sink cabinet. You need a torx bit (#10?) to remove the front panel. There is another panel held with 2 normal screws that surrounds the breakers. Remove that and you will find the buss bars. In addition, under the rear dinette seat (if the cover doesn't lift remove the screws) you will find another buss bar screwed to the floor. That's where I found one loose wire. The ones on the melted bar were too far gone for me to determine if any of those were loose/causing the problem.


Posted By: Artum Snowbird on 06/28/09 07:12pm

Burlmart,

You might find when you go to a big store like HD there may be choices galore. The 30 Amp 120 volt plug in you need is just that, but there are a great many three and four prong plugs and receptacles all for different uses. The 50 amp ones the big DP's use is a different plug, and there are many more, each for a unique application.

It is vitally important to connect the wires correctly if you replace something electrically. If you can see the connections from your present plug in cable, and the color of each wire and where it goes in your panel, you will need to know which terminal each goes under if you replace the cord cap (plug).


Posted By: cheeze1 on 06/28/09 09:37pm

I've seen them in HD. I have no idea of the prices, but sometimes repairing a wire is less cost-efficient than buying a new fully assembled one.


Posted By: Artum Snowbird on 06/28/09 10:22pm

Sometimes true... but putting a good quality plug on a perfectly good cord might be a better alternative than buying another perfectly good cord with another cheap molded plug attached for less $$$.


Posted By: burlmart on 06/29/09 03:47am

Artum, that makes sense to me. Before all this came up, I was not aware that these molded plugs were poorly built.

You raise the bigger point that I forgot: I cannot tell which color wires go to which of the 3 prongs in a molded (enclosed) plug. I assume there are three wires, and maybe a universal color scheme, like green=gnd, white=pos, black=neg???


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