'73 Concord 20' Class A w/Dodge 440 - see profile for photo
First question: 16 or 16.5 inch rims? That half inch makes for a big difference. 16 inch tires will not fit 16.5 rims. (I've personally seen people try it ... and seen the disastrous results.)
Decades ago, 16.5 rims and tires were fairly common. Not any more. So, 16.5 tires tend to be harder to find and usually have to be specially ordered. Likewise, there's a far narrower range of selection. Finally, they tend to be much more expensive due to manufacturing costs and economic supply and demand.
On the other hand, 16 inch tires are common, readily available, and less expensive. (Although, 17 inch tires are starting to eclipse 16 inch.)
16 inch rims will fit the Dana 70 rear axles that are in most of our motorhomes. They will also fit the front axles in most older Class C motorhomes.
Leeann and I, with our Class A beasts, are stuck with 16.5 rims due to larger brake calipers on the front. I've spent a lot of time trying to find a way around that problem. Current plans for MLP is 16 inch rims on the rear and 16.5 on the front. I won't carry spare tires for the 16 inch rims but WILL carry at least one unmounted 16.5 tire for the front.
(Regardless of where I'm at in Alaska -- or Canada -- I can get a 16 inch tire within a few days. To the best of my knowledge, 16.5 tires aren't stocked in Alaska. That means as much as 4-6 weeks to get one shipped up from the Lower 48.)
1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A
Final question -- which tire is best? It depends on where and when you'll be doing most of your motorhome driving.
I spend a lot of time "off the pavement" in all seasons. So, what's best for me probably isn't suitable for you.
In Alaska, supposedly "all season" tires are really only suitable for, at most, 3-5 months per year. Instead, experienced Alaskans run "winter" tires year around, largely due to numerous high altitude/latitude mountain passes. Yes, the tires we prefer are "noisy" but it's a minor annoyance compared to being delayed or prevented from going where we want.
I could go on but you get the idea.
I wouldn't get one without that feature.
Consider the possibility a previous owner swapped out the duallies for singles. Entirely possible when you consider the cost of two truck tires versus four.
Doing so would cut the load capacity of the rear axle in half. The result could easily be a dangerously overloaded rear axle.
For example, 235/85R16 Goodyear SR-A tires have a Load Index of 120, which translates into 3,086 pounds maximum per tire. A pair of singles means safe rear axle loading cannot exceed 6,172 pounds total for vehicle, cargo, and passengers. A pair of duallies means up to 12,344 pounds is safe.
While relatively minor, routinely running close to maximum tire capacity will also result in the tire tread wearing out sooner. So, you will probably find yourself replacing tires more frequently.
RvFNG76 wrote:
Which model
Which model
You were asking about the 30 amp WFCO unit. Leeann's is rated at 45 amps. Progressive Dynamics has 30 and 40 amp units that cost less than Leeann's. Personally, I'd go big (within reason).
Also, Leeann's unit was factory refurbished, which further reduced cost. I usually avoid refurbished electronics but, based on Leeann's experience, I would definitely look for a refurbished unit.
I'd add a Blue Seas Automatic Charging Relay (or similar) so the Charge Wizard could also maintain the engine's SLI battery when plugged into shore power. (Alternative is a separate IUoU charger to maintain the SLI battery.)
Note: more research is on my to-do list to see if I can tweak the entire electrical system for optimum operation and performance.
Consider that Leeann's model doesn't seem to have a built-in AC/DC distribution panel.
My current one (factory original) has a separate (residential) AC panel and the converter/charger has the 6vDC fuse panel built-in. So, if I were going with Leeann's model, I would also need, at the miniumum, a DC distribuiton panel. I would probably get an AC/DC distribution panel and eliminte the old AC panel.
Leeann, please correct me if I am wrong.
Griff, what would be the reason to go larger than a 30 amp unit when our rigs are only setup for a 30 amp connection?
12V panel front:
![[image]](https://s20.postimg.org/7n2so81od/IMG_1920.jpg)
12V panel back:
![[image]](https://s20.postimg.org/5wjrmqk59/IMG_1921.jpg)
AC Panel:
![[image]](https://s20.postimg.org/qhyjen1q5/IMG_1934.jpg)