Intelligent battery monitoring to prevent unwanted switching
Some battery combiners (also called voltage controlled relay, or split charge relay) will disconnect a battery incase of a short but high amperage load. A battery combiner also may fail to connect a large but discharged battery bank because the DC voltage immediately drops below the disengage value once the batteries are connected.
The software of the Cyrix-ct 12/24 does more than simply connect and disconnect based on battery voltage and with a fixed time delay. The Cyrix-ct 12/24 looks at the general trend (voltage increasing or decreasing) and reverses a previous
action only if the trend has reversed during a certain period of time. The time delay depends on the voltage deviation from the trend.
(for Battery Combiners with multiple engage/disengage profiles, please see the Cyrix-i 400)
Long bolts to allow connection of more than one power cable Cyrix 12/24-120: 13 mm (M6)Cyrix 12/24-230: 16 mm (M8)
Protection against overheating(due to a long duration overload e.g.)
The Cyrix will disengage in case of excessive contact temperature, and reengage again after it has cooled down.
12/24V auto ranging
The Cyrix-ct 12/24 automatically detects system voltage.
No voltage loss
Cyrix battery combiners are an excellent replacement for diode isolators. The main feature is that there is virtually no voltage loss so that the output voltage of alternators or battery chargers does not need to be increased.
Prioritising the starter battery
In a typical setup the alternator is directly connected to the starter battery. The accessory battery, and possibly also abow thruster and other batteries are each connected to the starter battery with Cyrix battery combiners. When a Cyrix senses that the starter battery has reached the connect voltage it will engage, to allow for parallel charging of the other batteries.
Bidirectional voltage sensing and power supply from both batteries
The Cyrix senses the voltage of both connected batteries. It will therefore also engage if for example the accessory
battery is being charged by a battery charger.
The Cyrix-ct 12/24 has a dual power supply. It will therefore also close if the voltage on one battery is too low to operate the Cyrix.
In order to prevent unexpected operation during installation or when one battery has been disconnected, the Cyrix-ct 12/24 will not close if the voltage on one of the two battery connections is lower than 2 V (12 V battery) or 4 V (24 V battery).
Parallel connection in case of emergency (Start Assist)
The Cyrix can also be engaged with a push button (Cyrix remains engaged during 30 seconds) or a switch to connect batteries in parallel manually.
This is especially useful in case of emergency when the starter battery is discharged or damaged.
* This post was last edited 11/17/17 01:05am by Eric Hysteric *
'79 Dodge Sportsman 5.9 LA 360 TEC Campmate
We took it to our mechanic to get ready for the trip. It turns out he has a one year newer (I think a Sportsman) that he has hopped up. It looks like about 28 feet long. 525 horsepower. He says it will go well over 120 mph. To quote, "It'll go faster, but I won't." At that speed it starts rocking. I guess he does a lot of speed work for people.
Welcome to the forum. Now it seems there are three of you in Fairbanks. I've been there, and considering the size of Fairbanks, I'm surpised there are three of you.
Oh wait, your mechanic isn't named Griff is he?
Fbx-Ak wrote:
Mechanic's name is James. I don't know Griff, but after reading some of his posts, he must be quite knowledgeable.
Mechanic's name is James. I don't know Griff, but after reading some of his posts, he must be quite knowledgeable.
Thank you for the compliment.
I apologize to everyone for disappearing for a bit. My right knee pain flared up ... to the point I could barely play solitaire, never mine writing a coherent sentence. (I also wanted to see if anyone made the place connection ... and laugh when I read what TreeSeeker wrote.)
I live in Two Rivers, just off 22.5 CHSR. (Actually, in the Pleasant Valley area but everyone says I'm too grouchy to claim that place.)
I've probably met James, selling or delivering parts to him when I worked at CarQuest a few years ago.
I normally don't work on other people's vehicles. Instead, I prefer to help them fix their vehicles themselves. The satisfaction those people get from learning and doing something new gives me a lot of personal pleasure. (Plus, it tells me just how serious they are about solving their problems.)
My daughter is almost as knowledgeable as me but is 100 percent service-connected disabled. She's been trying to find someone -- who won't piss me off -- to 'help' me fix her pickup.
In any case, welcome to the 'old Dodge motorhomes' thread. You've joined what is probably the best place for information and help with your motorhome.
You mentioned owning a Class A Explorer in the early '70s. You may have also noticed, in my signature block, that I own two early '70s Class A Explorers. Both were acquired in Alaska so it's possible you were a previous owner.
![[image]](http://www.riffgan.com/motorhome/my_little_project/progress/_page/images/2005_04_21_1.jpg)
![[image]](http://www.riffgan.com/motorhome/my_little_project/progress/_page/images/2005_04_21_2.jpg)
Did yours look like this?
1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A
James has his shop in what used to be the Jade shop just off the Steese. I don't know where he was before that.
By the time those pictures were taken, the roof had rotted through and was starting to cave in. So, the roof line in the pictures would definitely be different from what you remember.
I stripped it all the way to the frame and was starting to rebuild a custom body for it. (Among other things, the new body was going to be bit wider to allow for R15 XPS insulation in the walls.)
I screwed up the frame in the process. Just as I was getting ready to fix what I'd screwed up someone offered me the '73 RM350 Explorer for free. (Someone had pulled the 440 engine and transmission and abandoned the rest.) The RM350 was heavier duty, with a longer wheelbase, so that chassis was better for MLP (aka My Little Project).
I still have most of the salvageable parts (windows, etc,) from both, in case anyone's looking for replacements.
I think I saw the one out on the Rich you mentioned. That's another one I was offered free but it got sent to the crusher before I could arrange to have it towed.
Eric Hysteric wrote:
Engine starts cold very well, warm needs cranking.
Engine starts cold very well, warm needs cranking.
Sounds, like your choke isn't opening properly when the engine is warm.
Eric Hysteric wrote:
The carburator leaks and i need to change some gaskets and maybe the float needle.
The carburator leaks and i need to change some gaskets and maybe the float needle.
Rebuilding a carburetor is a bit difficult, particularly in terms of the right size needles, adjusting the float, and making sure everything is installed correctly. I used to do it myself but now usually just buy a rebuilt. (Recently, I've had mine rebuilt by a friend who specializes in that ... unfortunately, he's fighting cancer now.)
Eric Hysteric wrote:
Where can i find a manual how to remove the carburetor from block or is it easy and self explanatory?
Where can i find a manual how to remove the carburetor from block or is it easy and self explanatory?
Removing the carburetor from the intake manifold is easy. (It usually take me about 15 minutes but I have lots of experience.) Reinstalling it takes longer, to make sure everything is connected correctly.
Take lots of good, close-up pictures so you know how everything goes back together.
Throttle and choke linkage takes less than a minute. There (should be) clips that keep the linkage in place. There are replacement clips available but finding the right ones can be difficult.
At least one vacuum hose for distributor vacuum advance. Probably more for other things. Getting them back on the right places can be tricky. (Putting any of the hoses on the wrong nipples can make your engine run poorly.) I normally use masking tape and a felt-tip pen to label each hose. (You might think "I'll remember." I do sometimes ... a day or two later and I'm not sure what goes where.)
There's probably not any electrical wires. If there are, pictures and masking tape labels are just as important for the wires as for the vacuum hoses.
The fuel line and four nuts (on studs) at the base of the carburetor is all that remains before lifting the carburetor off the intake manifold. (While I normally prefer six-point sockets and box-end wrenches, an open-end wrench on at least one of the nuts will be necessary.)