'79 Dodge Sportsman 5.9 LA 360 TEC Campmate
I just posted it because I never saw that newer technology ICM before.
Eric Hysteric wrote:
Hirev 7500 is the name of the ECU module and Hirev 7500 is a trademark of Richard J. Ehrenberg. I also read a lot about his big knowhow.
Hirev 7500 is the name of the ECU module and Hirev 7500 is a trademark of Richard J. Ehrenberg. I also read a lot about his big knowhow.
I think what we all have been saying is eBay sellers can misrepresent what they're selling, both in images and text.
Assuming that's not true in this case, I would definitely consider what the seller is offering. However, I would look for a (reliable) source other than eBay first, even if I had to pay a bit more.
I am concerned about the 7500 RPMs rating. Mechanically, most stock Mopar engines red-line around 6000 RPMs so 7500 RPMs is a bit excessive for a stock engine. However, the rating in this case may be to ensure reliability. (Ignition systems sometimes misfire when you approach 6000 RPMs ... if the ICM is capable of handling 7500 RPMs, it's less likely to misfire at lower RPMs.)
(If you routinely run your stock engine in the 5000-6000 range, you're shortening the engine's life and risking damage.)
TreeSeeker wrote:
I agree with Griff, investigate before you buy. Especially when it costs $200!
I just posted it because I never saw that newer technology ICM before.
I agree with Griff, investigate before you buy. Especially when it costs $200!
I just posted it because I never saw that newer technology ICM before.
I've been aware of efforts to produce a 'new and improved' ICM for at least three decades. Over that period, I haven't heard a lot about the result of those efforts. IMHO, this is due to most people preferring to stay with something that resembles stock OEM in appearance and performance.
1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A
I drive my cars very sensitively and i have no plan to destroy this oldschool engine ;-)
If it's a Ehrenbergs product, i think i can trust this ICM.
In the box was a sheet of paper inside and a instruction how to test the correct coil voltage. Very interesting. Should i check it with the ICM connector plugged in?
![[image]](https://img1.picload.org/image/dgwclorw/img_20171020_130305327.jpg)
and here is my old original Chrysler ICM
![[image]](https://img1.picload.org/image/dgwclpoa/img_20171022_142327906.jpg)
* This post was edited 10/23/17 05:59am by Eric Hysteric *
I'm sold on the Hirev 7500. I had planned to find a Mopar Performance ignition system. (The 318 I'm using in MLP had a points-type distributor so replacing it with an OEM-style electronic vacuum advance distributor was a given.) Plans have now changed ... I'm going with a Hirev 7500 instead.
I did some research to answer a question that popped into my head -- Did Mopars with points-type distributors uses ballast resistors? (Pre-electronic ignition Mopars, like my '66 Polara and '69/70 M300 Class A.)
The answer is yes. (I may wander over and look at my daughter's '59 Savoy to see if it has an original ballast resistor.)
So, the purpose of the ballast resistor was most likely to extend the interval between resetting/replacing the points in the distributor, in addition to extending the life of spark plug gaps.
For everyone -- Jegs sells the Hirev 7500, both by itself and as part of a kit. The kit includes a ballast resistor and wiring harness ... with a new ICM connector.
Sorry, Eric ... I know you already bought your Hirev 7500 and also need a new ICM connector, to replace the current cracked connector. Fortunately, Jegs sells just the wiring harness, for $22.99USD. Part number is 555-40801, via this link.
Note that the wiring diagram shows a two connector ballast resistor. Also note that the diagram shows the fifth ICM connector (green wire) is not used. I believe the fifth connector is for the other side of four connector ballast resistors. (Google extensively to make sure this belief is correct ... I could be wrong.)
DO NOT rely on the 10.8 volts I stated in a previous post I made. I obviously screwed up my calculations.
Instead, rely on the 7 to 9 volts stated in the .pdf link (above) and the instructions image Eric posted.
ECU can refer to a lot of electronic control units that are very different in function and application. (For example, some newer RV refrigerators have 12V electronic control units --ECUs -- for governing the propane and 120V operation.)
Ignition Control Module (ICM) is more specific. Via context, we can assume it applies to a motor vehicle engine ignition system.
(ICM is still somewhat ambiguous, although less so. Some non-pilot light stoves and furnaces have ICMs for igniting the propane or natural gas.)
For example: In my 25 years old Honda Africa Twin i have replace the old regulator with a modern mosfet-one. No heat, very effective and reliable.
Also placed some relays (the ordinary 85/86/87a...) to release the switches and wires.
The result is bullet proof simple mechanic and maintenance-free longlife electrical.
A vehicle with which you can drive around the world
This type of gauge is specifically designed for monitoring the charge level in deep cycle batteries. So, it's suitable for marine and recreational vehicle applications.
The gauge looks like a fuel gauge, with (left to right) E, 1/4, 1/2, 3/4. and F. To the far left, past the E mark, it reads 'Dead' and to the far right, past the F mark, it reads 'Charging."
Most automobile gauge manufacturers don't offer this type of gauge because of its limited application. I settled on a Faria 13012 because I've received indications Faria gauges are reliable. (Faria focuses on the marine market but there's no reason their gauges can't be used in a motorhome.)
Battery Condition Indicators and automotive voltmeters appear similar in function but each is intended for a specific purpose.
Before proceeding, I'll repeat what I've said before. Automotive ammeters are useless. They served a useful purpose over a half century ago, when the electrical generators and alternators had a relatively small output. (They are also a royal PITA to wire in correctly.)
Voltmeters now provide a better indication of electrical system performance. (Automobile and truck manufacturers are finally catching on to this fact and offering voltmeters instead of ammeters in the instrument clusters.)
So, I typically disconnect ammeters and install voltmeters instead. (The custom instrument panel for MLP will retain the late-60s Dodge truck appearance but with a voltmeter where the ammeter was originally.)
Voltmeters are suitable for monitoring the operation of an engine's electrical system, in the same manner as the fuel, coolant temperature, and oil pressure gauges. As such, the voltmeter should be active when the engine is running.
Battery condition indicators (BCIs) are not meant to be on continuously. Knowledgeable practice is to use a momentary (spring loaded) switch to activate the BCI when someone wants to check the battery's charge level.
(Leaving a BCI on continuously won't hurt most BCIs but will create an unnecessary drain on the deep cycle battery/bank.)
Questions and comments are welcome.
IMHO the high-tech 12V batteries are (yet) to expensive for the added value (weight, high% use of the capaticy...). I bought a classic lead-acid 100Ah batterie for 75 $ and if the batterie dies after 3 years it wasn't an expensive investement.
My plan is to buy this panel. Nice look for an old motorhome, battery charge level gauge and some switches (want to install a refrigerator-fan).
![[image]](https://img3.picload.org/image/drgddowl/ee.jpg)
* This post was edited 10/25/17 05:07am by Eric Hysteric *