TreeSeeker wrote:
I guess Griff fell in the black hole of his new game...
Somewhat but not entirely. I've also been involved in my annual autumn 'race the white stuff falling out of the sky.' As usual, I lost, with a number of outdoor tasks still undone. (It's been snowing for two days, with several inches on the ground as I write this.)I guess Griff fell in the black hole of his new game...
TreeSeeker - 'NOS' is an example of experienced people assuming everybody knows the argot associated with an activity. When I developed and taught an Introduction to Small Computers course in the early '80s, students quickly learned I'd say, "Gesundheit," whenever someone used an acronym or term unique to their career field. (Our use of 'ICM' is another example/)
NOS is highly sought after by the elite of automobile restorers. In car shows, they lose points for every detail that isn't exactly factory original.
So, you might be able to sell the NOS ICM for a healthy sum and buy a new aftermarket ICM. You might even be able to sell the NOS ICM for enough to buy several new ICMs.
Eric - It's very possible the manufacturer used more sophisticated circuitry inside the ICM you discovered. Doing so would allow their ICM to work with both two and four connector ballast resistor.
I'm intrigued by -- and tempted to buy -- the ICM you found. My up-to-date currency converter indicates it costs roughly $85USD, which is a point in it's favor. (Assuming the price point is realistic and not artificially inflated.)
1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A
Spark plugs require a very high voltage to 'do their thing.' Per Wikipedia:
Quote:
Spark plugs usually require voltage of 12,000–25,000 volts or more to "fire" properly, although it can go up to 45,000 volts.
Spark plugs usually require voltage of 12,000–25,000 volts or more to "fire" properly, although it can go up to 45,000 volts.
The higher the voltage, the 'hotter' the spark. The spark plug gap has a bearing on how much voltage is needed, with wider gaps requiring higher voltage.
The distributor send the high voltage to the right spark plug, when the plug is supposed to fire. Older distributors used a set of contacts (points) to cause each plug to fire at the correct instant, relative to the piston's position in the cylinder. Newer (electronic) distributors use an electromagnetic sensor (reluctor) to determine when to 'shoot' the current to each plug.
In both types of distributors, the 'gap' for the points or reluctor is critical. In points-type distributors, steel feeler gauges could be used to set the gap. Because of the magnet in reluctor-type distributors, brass feeler gauges are vital to accurately set the gap. (An advantage for electronic distributors is the reluctor rarely, if ever, needs to be re-gapped, unless the reluctor needs to be replaced, slips due to loose screws, or someone messing with it.)
Electronic ignition Dodge ICMs use the 'signal' from the reluctor to 'know' when to trigger the high voltage current.
The ignition coil is essentially a 'step-up' transformer. It converts the relatively low (roughly 13.5 volts) input voltage into the thousands of volts needed to fire the plugs.
The plasma created by the high voltage spark tends to 'blast' material off the spark plug electrodes. The 'hotter' the spark, the more material is 'burned off.' (This is why spark plugs need to be re-gapped or replaced periodically.)
Cold engines need a relatively hotter spark in order to start running. Once the engine is running, a 'less hot' spark is suitable for continuing operation. So, an ignition circuit needs to 'switch' between a 'hot' spark and a 'not-so-hot' spark, mostly to extend the time between re-gapping/replacing spark plugs. (Lots of stop-and-go driving, versus longer trips, tends to wear out spark plugs faster.)
This dichotomy is the reason for the ballast resistors in Dodge ignition systems. The ballast resistor reduces the voltage going to the ignition system, resulting in a 'not-so-hot' spark.
When I was trying to come up with an example using actual numbers, I wound up going down a rabbit hole of algebra, physics, and mathematical calculations. Assuming my starting figures are correct and I didn't screw something up somewhere, 13.5 volts input to a 5 ohm ballast resistor yields a 10.8 volts output.
The START circuit in our older Dodges bypasses the ballast resistor, supplying a full 13.5 volts to the ignition circuit. (This is for a two connector ballast resistor, the START side of four connector resistors is low resistance so essentially the same.) The RUN circuit goes through the ballast resistor, supplying 10.8 volts to the ignition circuit.
Assuming a 25,000 volt output from the coil during starting (and a simple ratio relationship), the output from the coil while running is 20,000 volts. (25,000 divided by 13.5 times 10.8)
I'll take a break while everyone goes get some aspirin or a stiff drink.
https://www.moparshop.de/search?sSearch=Hochleistunsz%C3%BCndbox+Mopar+
I bought the 4/5 PIN Version and will report.
'79 Dodge Sportsman 5.9 LA 360 TEC Campmate
I noticed, when I followed the link, that two of the ICMs offered are from Standard Motor Products (SMP). This is one of the manufacturers/distributors I generally trust.
Griff in Fairbanks wrote:
I noticed, when I followed the link, that two of the ICMs offered are from Standard Motor Products (SMP). This is one of the manufacturers/distributors I generally trust.
I noticed, when I followed the link, that two of the ICMs offered are from Standard Motor Products (SMP). This is one of the manufacturers/distributors I generally trust.
yes, i saw i too late, especialle because the price for the SMP is humane. Now i have R. Ehrenbergs Hi-Rev 7500 Module and hope it's worth the extra charge ;-)
I found this module also at Ebay.com
https://www.ebay.com/itm/MOPAR-Hi-Rev750........tem4b2a78abcf:g:7YEAAOSwrmdTqBnk&vxp=mtr
Ordered yesterday solder connector with heat shrink tubing.
I love them. Weekend is saved ;-)
![[image]](http://i.imgur.com/ySlVcI4.jpg)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mopar-Ignition-Control-Module-w-Coil-Ballast-Jumper-kit-and-Limiter-Plate-/221759869530?hash=item33a1eb125a:g:qjYAAOSwe-FU2NjM&vxp=mtr
Yes, I'm aware of the heat shrink tubing with low temperature alloy solder inside. (It's similar to some copper plumbing fittings now available.) However, not all have the epoxy adhesive that seals the heat shrink tubing to the wire insulation. (The epoxy adhesive seals the connection against air and moisture that can lead to corrosion.)
The picture in the eBay link you posted had a "R. Ehrenberg" copyright overmark. I assume this means Richard Ehrenberg. If so, I'm inclined to trust this product.
Richard Ehrenberg is a long-time, very knowledgeable Mopar expert, who has written extensively on Mopar electrical and electronic systems. I've learned a lot from what he's written and trust anything and everything he's involved in.
I've actually contributed to one of his online articles -- https://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/electrical2.html -- which describes a mod Leeann (among others) has made to have both an oil pressure gauge and warning ('idiot') light.
TreeSeeker -
The eBay link you provided (naturally) only includes favorable reviews. I'd search for other -- independent -- reviews before buying.
Based on sometimes painful experience, I'm wary of anything 'innovative' until it's proven through (other people's) experience. There's far fewer people available to help you 'once you go off the beaten path.'
I've been considering, for a long time, changing the v-belts on my engine to a serpentine belt system. One concern that's holding me back is availability of parts and technical assistance for maintenance and repair.
BTW - the ICM in the link you provided doesn't have the visible large power transistor ... but it most assuredly has internal transistors. (The use of semiconductors -- diodes and transistors -- is one thing that separates 'electronic' from 'electrical.')
Recently got caught myself looking for a specific clutch basket for my racing kart. They come in 1, 2, and 3 disk versions, with brass sleeves, or with bearings. Picture was what I wanted, and I ended up skimming the description because the stopped making that particular version, and it was the last one... so I was overly excited and anxious... Wrong picture and the difference of one word in the description...
I digress....
Griff in Fairbanks wrote:
In spite of eBay's best efforts, it's one place where 'buyer beware' is especially appropriate.
In spite of eBay's best efforts, it's one place where 'buyer beware' is especially appropriate.
ebay's best efforts are a whole debate on its own.
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