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Topic: How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's? |
Posted By: Eric Hysteric
on 10/03/17 10:10am
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Wow! Big help for me! I'll order 4 bushings. My Carter Thermoquad 9207s is a 4 barrel carburetor? I think there are 2x2 barrels? Is it right?
'79 Dodge Sportsman 5.9 LA 360 TEC Campmate |
Posted By: TreeSeeker
on 10/03/17 10:13am
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Eric, RE: Hard Starting Have you been following the discussion on this topic and the Ignition Control Module (ICM)? Have you found your ICM? Is it leaking? Also check the ground on the ICM. And check and clean the battery cables (both ends). And check your battery voltage. Let us know what you find. RE: Wiper bushings "Big help for me! I'll order 4 bushings." -You need four bushings for replacement of the existing ones and 4 more as spares. Note there are two bushings per package, so you need 4 packages. (I have no idea why there aren't 4 per package since you need 4.) |
Posted By: Eric Hysteric
on 10/03/17 10:21am
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Yes TreeSeeker. I have been following the discussion on this topic and the Ignition Control Module (ICM). My ICM is looking good but i'll check the ground. The sparks are old, the cables also. The condition is great but the the car needs some love. ![]() * This post was edited 10/03/17 12:34pm by Eric Hysteric * |
Posted By: TreeSeeker
on 10/03/17 10:55am
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Eric, I don't see any leaking but it does look like the original and probably should be replaced. I note that the wire connector is cracked and this probably let water into the connection so it is probably corroded. Also, the ground has probably been compromised due to rust. I would add a separate ground wire as Griff has suggested. I plan on doing this too. You might be able to pull off the wire connector and clean the pin sockets with a tiny file or rolled up emery cloth. And maybe you could re-seal the connector's cover with some liquid rubber or similar. |
Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks
on 10/03/17 02:52pm
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TreeSeeker wrote: ![]() Eric, I don't see any leaking but it does look like the original and probably should be replaced. I note that the wire connector is cracked and this probably let water into the connection so it is probably corroded. Also, the ground has probably been compromised due to rust. I would add a separate ground wire as Griff has suggested. I plan on doing this too. You might be able to pull off the wire connector and clean the pin sockets with a tiny file or rolled up emery cloth. And maybe you could re-seal the connector's cover with some liquid rubber or similar. Or, Eric could replace the connector. http://weblink.carquest.com/acl/?mfgName=BWD&partNumber=PT169 However, they're very proud of this part ... prices in several places I check were all in the $80-90USD range. If you do replace it, I'd solder and heat-shrink rather than use crimp-on connectors. Use the marine-grade epoxy-lined heat shrink tubing. This will result in more durable and corrosion resistant connections. 1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year) 1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in. 1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A ![]() |
Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks
on 10/03/17 03:11pm
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In terms of a tree-like dedicated (hard wired) ground distribution system, this is a wiring example using distribution blocks.![]() This example is for a positive (supply-side) circuit. (I made this diagram for an article I'm writing.) The negative (ground- or return-side) would be the same. Change the red wires to black. Change "From Source" to "To Source" and "To Loads" to "From Loads." I made this diagram for an article I'm writing, on motorhome wiring. (I'm getting lazy ... could have fired up my CAD software, changed color and labels, exported to .jpg, and resized.) Technically, it should be called a "ground collection tree" but everybody tends to used ground distribution tree. I also used generic terms, in keeping with the article. Loads are things like ICMs, voltage regulators, lights, and so forth. Likewise, the source is your battery or alternator. |
Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks
on 10/03/17 03:33pm
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Also worth noting about Eric's picture -- he has the four-pin ICM and four-terminal ballast resistor, which seems to differ from most of what I've read. Also, the wires for the top ballast resistor terminals are routed around both sides of a major wire bundle, making it difficult to work on. If I was in Germany, with my tools, I'd pop the wire terminals out of the shell and re-rout them on one side of the bundle. (People in manufacturing streams don't always consider maintenance ... and I call them many names, in multiple languages.) |
Posted By: TreeSeeker
on 10/03/17 06:28pm
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Griff, I see five wires coming out of the ICM-four black (or dark) and one red. I did not know there was a marine grade shrink wrap. I am going to look for some. |
Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks
on 10/03/17 06:43pm
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I was looking at the wires that go into the connector shell. There's only four ... the fifth would be at the top of the shell. Don't know where the fifth wire you see goes. |
Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks
on 10/03/17 06:49pm
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Adhesive lined (thermal plastic, a form of epoxy) heat shrink tubing. Available from several manufacturers and multiple sources, mostly catering to the marine wiring market. I prefer Ancor, for wire as well as the heat shrink tubing. http://www.ancorproducts.com/en/products/wiremanagement/heatshrink The adhesive/epoxy melts while you're shrinking the tubing. As the tubing cools, the adhesive/epoxy hardens, sealing the wire splice or connector crimp. |
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