Griff in Fairbanks wrote:
BTW - anyone want to start a pool as to what will happen to the forum page counter when we top 1,000 pages?
BTW - anyone want to start a pool as to what will happen to the forum page counter when we top 1,000 pages?
1001, 1002, 1003..............
Unless you know something I don't?
Downsizing ">
Then after it has started once, I can leave it for a few days, and it starts right up. If it sits longer (maybe a month or more) it won't start again. These symptoms seem more like a lack of fuel issue. It has been so long (years) since I last worked on this, so I don't remember what all I checked way back.
I need to remove the engine cover and air cleaner and check for gas when the pedal is pressed. If there is no gas, then maybe there is a leak in the gas line, or the fuel pump is not working, or there is a plugged up fuel filter (although I remember looking for one before and couldn't find one).
Griff wrote:
You can -- sort of -- test this yourself. Charge up the battery until the charger indicates fully charged, remove from the charger, wait 24 hours, and use a voltmeter to measure remaining charge. This will identify a battery that's definitely bad but may not catch one that's iffy.
You can -- sort of -- test this yourself. Charge up the battery until the charger indicates fully charged, remove from the charger, wait 24 hours, and use a voltmeter to measure remaining charge. This will identify a battery that's definitely bad but may not catch one that's iffy.
Well, I still doubt it is the battery. This problem has existed ever since I got the RV about 10+ years ago. I replaced both batteries when I got it and I know I have replaced the engine battery twice. Right now there is a "new" battery in it that has never even been used to start the engine. I did buy the battery about a year ago. It has been on a battery maintainer that whole time.
My batteries have always been strong enough to crank the engine for 5 to ten minutes before it finally starts. So, these are not weak batteries. And if it were a battery issue, then I would think that the hard-starting problem would go away, at least briefly, when I put a new battery in. Never happened.
I will, however, disconnect the maintainer and check the voltage after 24 hours just to see.
TreeSeeker wrote:
I need to remove the engine cover and air cleaner and check for gas when the pedal is pressed. If there is no gas, then maybe there is a leak in the gas line, or the fuel pump is not working, or there is a plugged up fuel filter (although I remember looking for one before and couldn't find one).
I need to remove the engine cover and air cleaner and check for gas when the pedal is pressed. If there is no gas, then maybe there is a leak in the gas line, or the fuel pump is not working, or there is a plugged up fuel filter (although I remember looking for one before and couldn't find one).
Yup, that's what I would do ... and meant to suggest but forgot.
Your fuel pump is working. Otherwise, your engine just wouldn't start, no matter how much pumping and cranking you do.
You should have an inline fuel filter. Some are small and difficult to recognize. (Some are roughly a half inch in diameter and inch long.)
However, I've encountered far too many cases where someone has replaced the inline filter with a chunk of hose. Those who do so invariably use the wrong type of hose and don't clamp it firmly. Gasoline and especially ethanol (i.e., 'gasohol') will dissolve the wrong type of hose, versus one made specially for fuel systems. The result initially is small fuel or air leaks. Failing to clamp the hose firmly ... or at all ... frequently causes the same leaks.
Ideally, your carburetor bowl holds enough fuel to start the engine and get the mechanical fuel pump working. This small 'starting reserve' will eventually evaporate but should last several months to a year or more. An empty bowl any sooner indicates a bowl leak or a faulty bowl float. (A visible squirt of gas in the carburetor throat indicates the bowl and float are acceptable.)
Likewise, the fuel line should remain full of fuel. Otherwise, the mechanical fuel pump needs to suck all the air out of the line before it can start pumping fuel. (Sounds like what you're experiencing, right?)
A small, barely perceptible (or imperceptible) fuel leak can partially or completely empty the line. (Your description sounds like the line is completely empty.)
As I mentioned before, as small air leak in the fuel line can allow the fuel to be siphoned out of the line and back into the tank. (By law, openings are only allowed in the top of motor vehicle fuel tanks ... I've been forced to replace the tanks that were in my RM350 because they have plugged pipe-thread bungs in the bottom.) The compliant arrangement of fuel pickups are ripe for siphoning, provide an air leak allows that to happen.
In addition to allowing siphoning, inadequately clamped hoses make it harder on mechanical fuel pumps. In addition to sucking all the air out of the line, the pump needs to remove any air coming in through the leak. In the worst case (large enough air leak), the pump is never able to draw fuel out of the tank.
Bottom line: The fuel line needs to be completely sealed from the tank pickup to the pump. Pushing fuel is easy, sucking -- especially air -- isn't. That's why electric fuel pumps -- in or close to the tank -- have become common practice.
One of the (unacceptable) reasons people replace the inline filter with a chuck of hose is they believe the filter is creating a restriction that's hampering the pump's ability to draw fuel. (The filter does restrict fuel flow, especially if it's clogged, but nowhere near the problems caused by an leaky line.) So, what they actually do is make the problem worse.
It's very common to find the filter between the tank and mechanical pump. A better place is between the pump (mechanical or electric) and the carburetor. This is a change I often make, while ensuring the fuel line is sealed tight.
BTW - there's probably a small, sintered bronze fuel filter on your carburetor. This is a final line of defense and not meant to replace the fuel line filter. Assuming you have an adequate fuel line filter, these almost never need replacement.
Idiots also tend to throw these away. Knowledgeable mechanics replace missing ones.
Carburetors vary so yours may not have one. They're fairly rare on one and two barrel carburetors and common on four barrel carburetors.
If a carburetor doesn't have one, knowledgeable mechanics tend to add one, especially if they care for the vehicle they're working on.
Enough, this should keep you busy for a week or two. (Your significant other can thank me later.)
1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A
Ballenxj wrote:
1001, 1002, 1003..............
Unless you know something I don't?
Griff in Fairbanks wrote:
BTW - anyone want to start a pool as to what will happen to the forum page counter when we top 1,000 pages?
BTW - anyone want to start a pool as to what will happen to the forum page counter when we top 1,000 pages?
1001, 1002, 1003..............
Unless you know something I don't?
It depends, the programmers may have only allowed for 999 pages. If so, the page counter may roll over to one or things may get weird.
Online reports indicate it could take months to finish the game or grow tired of it. One report stated it took a week of nonstop play to more or less finish it. Another report said someone was hospitalized for exhaustion due to lack of sleep.
Likewise, the weather forecast indicates better weather in a two or three days, right when I'm ready to take a break from the game. There's still things I need to do outside before the white stuff starts falling out of the sky in earnest.
Wife WILL NOT let me play nonstop, so I will have (forced) breaks.
If this is a Thermoquad, I doubt its a internal issue, it has 2 float bowls, but that sintered bronze filter, (or maybe replaced with a paper filter one) Griff mentioned is a prime suspect. Otherwise i would suspect and check fuel delivery, (volume and pressure).
You need 3 things , well really 4, spark, fuel, compression, and get them all together at right time. We assume the timing and compression are O. K. because it runs fine once it starts so that leaves spark and fuel, If you have a nice spark at spark plug to wire, that eliminates that. Got a fuel issue.
Thanks for all the tips. It is a Thermoquad. I had to have a rebuilt one installed after a smog test, one time, then they cracked it by overtightening it, and I didn't discover this until the next smog test 2 years later (not driven at all). Then I had to buy another rebuild. So, the last rebuild has barely been driven--just back from the smog test place.
However, after getting it started, it does run great. So, I am inclined to think it is a fuel issue. But, the ICM does need to be replaced since it melted. Maybe those are two different issues. I am going to order the ICM and do some visual inspections of the fuel line and carb.
Oh, and I doubt it is the filter in the carb since all three carbs I have had all had the same symptom of hard-starting. Even if one of those carbs had a plugged fuel filter, the other two likely didn't.
![[image]](http://i63.tinypic.com/2dgq6ti.jpg)
I think I need a new one.
Question-there are two types, one has 5 pins like mine but says it has electronic throttle control (which mine doesn't), and the other type has four pins (and the missing pin is for the ballast resistor) and it doesn't have electronic throttle control.
I am guessing the five pin one (with ballast pin) even though I don't need electronic throttle control.
Four pin without ballast control
5 pin with electronic throttle control
Votes?
Do the five to four conversion.
Mancini, Summit, or MoParts. Anything less than $50USD is likely lower quality and questionable durability and reliability.
If you're determined to go aftermarket, BWD brand is currently the ONLY one I'd trust ... and I don't like redoing repair jobs, especially if it's because I cut costs/corners and wound up using substandard parts.
CarQuest (which has been bought out by a national chain) BWD part number is CBE14, described as "Premium Quality." Another BWD part number is CBE14P, described as "OE Style." List prices are $62.09 and $62.99, respectively. With the discount for my commercial account, my cost is $58.99 and $56.99, respectively.
You may be able to get close to or match that price ... they've been screwing with my discount lately.