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Topic: How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's? |
Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks
on 09/27/17 06:21pm
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Just to avoid any possible confusion, the arrow on the right side of TreeSeeker's picture does point to the off-white, unglazed ceramic ballast resistor ... and I can see it's a 'four-pin' resistor. (Width tells, 'two-pin' resistor would be narrower.) The thing immediately to the left of the ballast resistor is the ignition module, roughly 3x5 inches in size. The round 'cap' on a flat 'diamond' is an old-school transistor. The electrical connector is in the upper left of the module box. The module and resistor isn't always grouped that closely together. 1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year) 1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in. 1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A ![]() |
Posted By: TreeSeeker
on 09/27/17 06:22pm
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Eyeteeth, I am not clear, you say it either works or it doesn't, yet you say replacing yours cleared up the hard starting problem. Since the sealant has leaked, it may have been due to the module itself overheating when trying to start the engine. That could have been due to another problem, or the control module could have BEEN the overheating problem. It (the control module) could have been experiencing an internal failure causing the overheating. How much did a replacemnt cost? |
Posted By: eyeteeth
on 09/27/17 06:25pm
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TreeSeeker... in the past, the ignition module either worked or it didn't. THIS TIME, it slowly got harder and harder to start. I NEVER thought it was the ignition module until I changed it on a whim and the problem went away. In the past, it seemed like every spring I was replacing the module as it wouldn't start. Not sure if that clears anything up or not.
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Posted By: TreeSeeker
on 09/27/17 06:41pm
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Griff, Thanks for pointing out the lube issue. I'll add it to my ToDo list. I have some spray white lithum grease here. Why do ToDo lists never get shorter, only longer... |
Posted By: TreeSeeker
on 09/27/17 06:59pm
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Griff, I am unable to find a Mopar part for the ECU, but there are several others ranging in price from $8 to $40. Any recommendations? Rock Auto ECUs for 1978 Dodge Or should I just go to my local Napa store? |
Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks
on 09/27/17 07:31pm
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TreeSeeker wrote: ![]() Griff, I am unable to find a Mopar part for the ECU, but there are several others ranging in price from $8 to $40. Any recommendations? Rock Auto ECUs for 1978 Dodge Or should I just go to my local Napa store? Careful using "ECU" ... there's a lot of very different components called that. (At CarQuest, I had to step in when another counter person kept telling a customer, "Older Dodges don't have ECUs." Correct in the modern sense of the acronym.) It causes less confusion if you just say ignition module or ignition control module. (It's okay in this case because we all know from context what you mean.) Leeann mentioned getting an OEM module (probably Mopar Performance) from Mancini Racing. Will check there and other possible sources and get back to you. In the meanwhile, not NAPA and other parts stores ... almost all of them sell aftermarket modules. Especially not Rock Auto, I've never dealt with them and don't have a good impression of them. (My opinion and may be invalid.) Have you tried the parts counter at nearby Dodge dealers? Tell them for a '79 Dodge B200 or D200. The modules were essentially the same from early '70s right up until Chrysler switched to computer controlled engines. The differences were relatively minor four versus five connector pins and the very important six versus eight cylinder engines. BTW - counter people's brains tend to lock up if you mention "motorhome." That's why I said to say B200 (van) or D200 (pickup). Also, have you tried local junkyards? |
Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks
on 09/27/17 08:07pm
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From Mancini Racing: Mopar Performance ignition control module. It's chrome, so your motorhome might be embarrassed ... Mancini Racing is about an hour ESE from Detroit. They have a very solid reputation and I have reason to believe a lot of NASCAR teams use, and maybe rely, on them. It looks like they're starting to sell out of NOS Mopar Performance parts, like everyone else. (Chrysler shut down the Mopar Performance division decades ago and the old stock is highly sought after.) Mancini Racing would be a very good place to talk to if you have to go aftermarket. They'd definitely know what's good and what isn't. BTW - this is an example of the bridge-like heat sink/mounting bracket I mentioned. |
Posted By: TreeSeeker
on 09/27/17 08:15pm
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Ok, I'll be careful not to call it an ECU (I found it called that in one of the articles you linked). I found that the current one says Crysler on the side. It is very old and probably is the original. I do have all the maintenance reciepts for it (before I got it) so I will see if it was replaced before. All the pics on the Rock Auto pages look just like the one I have. At this point anything is probably better than the one I have. Oh, and the leaking stuff IS sticky. My mistake. And it is also leaking around the top component too. Not good. |
Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks
on 09/27/17 08:15pm
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Moparts Connection appears to have the same thing for a little less. Personally, I'd prefer dealing with Mancini, due to their reputation. Yes, both of these are four pin. They will work for you ... one of the links I posted describes, with wiring diagrams, replacing a five pin with a four pin ... it doesn't look very complex. * This post was edited 09/27/17 08:24pm by Griff in Fairbanks * |
Posted By: my440
on 09/27/17 08:17pm
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I really like it when the parts person is over 50 years old. Otherwise your leaning over the counter while the parts person is asking the most irrelevant questions just to make the computer go to different possibilitys. I like the old school ballasts and modules and the rest of the wizardry of the day thats bolted to the firewall and hid up under the dash. When I was a kid many many things were fixed on the road side if you had vice grips screwdriver and maybe a piece of wire. I really appreciate all the info I read here no doubt. ![]() |
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