VintageMopar wrote:
The trick is having the steering centered on that big center sector shaft tooth.If its turned just a little, it will end up too tight. Just because the steering wheel is level straight does not mean gearbox is centered. Turn wheel all way to one direction, note where wheel is compared to turn signal wand and and turn all the way to other lock. Half way is gearbox centered.
The trick is having the steering centered on that big center sector shaft tooth.If its turned just a little, it will end up too tight. Just because the steering wheel is level straight does not mean gearbox is centered. Turn wheel all way to one direction, note where wheel is compared to turn signal wand and and turn all the way to other lock. Half way is gearbox centered.
Ahh! Now I know what happened to a high school classmate. He wanted "more responsive steering," so he apparently tighten the gearbox. (I wasn't there so I didn't see what he did.)
The result was an unbelievably scary vehicle ... his girlfriend -- and eventual wife -- refused to ride with him. (She only accepted the engagement ring after he promised to sell his tools and refused to set a wedding date until he actually sold them.) He also got pulled over multiple time on suspicion of DWI.
It didn't help that he tend to think a bolt wasn't tight enough until he'd stripped the threads or sheared the bolt. To make matters worse, he couldn't grasp the difference between ordinary hardware store bolts and grade 5 or 8 bolts. As a result, he tended to use grade 2 bolts, without any mark on the head, for replacements.
Had I known what VintageMopar just described, I could have undone his "repairs" and "improvements."
So, thank you for adding to this crusty old shade-tree mechanic's knowledge.
1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A
'79 Dodge Sportsman 5.9 LA 360 TEC Campmate
eyeteeth wrote:
Eric... You probably found some of the best people to learn from here.
Eric... You probably found some of the best people to learn from here.
I am sure of that ;-)
A question: What do you think about the Airtex electronic ignition conversion kit?
![[image]](https://img1.picload.org/image/dgodrapr/airtexwells1a4143.jpg)
Eric Hysteric wrote:
I am sure of that ;-)
A question: What do you think about the Airtex electronic ignition conversion kit?
eyeteeth wrote:
Eric... You probably found some of the best people to learn from here.
Eric... You probably found some of the best people to learn from here.
I am sure of that ;-)
A question: What do you think about the Airtex electronic ignition conversion kit?
No. Stay with the stock Dodge electronic ignition. That's what I had in my '77 B200 van with a 318 cu. in. (Same basic engine as you have.) Never gave me any problems and boosted gas mileage once I tweaked the timing.
The 318 that was in my '69/70 Class A had points ignition. I'm going to the stock Dodge electronic ignition after I rebuild the engine.
There is a performance version of the Dodge electronic ignition but I'm not sure if it's suitable or necessary in your motorhome.
If you have something other than the OEM Dodge electronic ignition, a previous owner changed it out. If so, I'd strongly recommend changing back to OEM. (The OEM ignition was nearly bullet proof so I don't know why anyone -- other than a race engine builder -- would want to change it.)
Griff in Fairbanks wrote:
No. Stay with the stock Dodge electronic ignition. That's what I had in my '77 B200 van with a 318 cu. in. (Same basic engine as you have.) Never gave me any problems and boosted gas mileage once I tweaked the timing.
(The OEM ignition was nearly bullet proof so I don't know why anyone -- other than a race engine builder -- would want to change it.)
No. Stay with the stock Dodge electronic ignition. That's what I had in my '77 B200 van with a 318 cu. in. (Same basic engine as you have.) Never gave me any problems and boosted gas mileage once I tweaked the timing.
(The OEM ignition was nearly bullet proof so I don't know why anyone -- other than a race engine builder -- would want to change it.)
There is an electronic ignition inside? Wow, i am very surprised about it. When i did the first testdrive, the starter needed some seconds until the engine is started, but the engine runs great without smoke and very quiet. Love it! :-)
In my opinion the starter is a little bit undersized for this big engine but it seems to work, so i'm not worried abou that.
Eric Hysteric wrote:
There is an electronic ignition inside? Wow, i am very surprised about it. When i did the first testdrive, the starter needed some seconds until the engine is started, but the engine runs great without smoke and very quiet. Love it! :-)
In my opinion the starter is a little bit undersized for this big engine but it seems to work, so i'm not worried abou that.
Griff in Fairbanks wrote:
No. Stay with the stock Dodge electronic ignition. That's what I had in my '77 B200 van with a 318 cu. in. (Same basic engine as you have.) Never gave me any problems and boosted gas mileage once I tweaked the timing.
(The OEM ignition was nearly bullet proof so I don't know why anyone -- other than a race engine builder -- would want to change it.)
No. Stay with the stock Dodge electronic ignition. That's what I had in my '77 B200 van with a 318 cu. in. (Same basic engine as you have.) Never gave me any problems and boosted gas mileage once I tweaked the timing.
(The OEM ignition was nearly bullet proof so I don't know why anyone -- other than a race engine builder -- would want to change it.)
There is an electronic ignition inside? Wow, i am very surprised about it. When i did the first testdrive, the starter needed some seconds until the engine is started, but the engine runs great without smoke and very quiet. Love it! :-)
In my opinion the starter is a little bit undersized for this big engine but it seems to work, so i'm not worried abou that.
Yes. So you'd just be spending money to buy something you already have.
Replace cap, and spark plugs. Make sure spark plugs have correct gap. Put a timing light on it ... but don't change the timing unless it's clearly off the mark. (Disconnect and plug vacuum advance hose first ... and remember to reconnect hose after checking timing.)
I've never had to replace the starter on an LA small block, which is what you have. Can't say the same for other vehicles.
Your battery may be weak or the cables could be loose or corroded.
The only vehicle that didn't require some cranking was my '49 Int'l Metro step van. Even at 30 below zero (F), it'd fire up after only one or two complete rotations.
BTW - get a spare ballast resistor and carry it with you ... that was the only truly frustrating experience I had with my '77 van.
Eric Hysteric wrote:
Thanks! The information about the spare ballast resistor ist very valuable. I love the old technique but it's very important to know their "achilles' heel" and to what to check first in case of a problem. There is no alternative to the unreliable ballast resistor?
Thanks! The information about the spare ballast resistor ist very valuable. I love the old technique but it's very important to know their "achilles' heel" and to what to check first in case of a problem. There is no alternative to the unreliable ballast resistor?
Nope. The ballast resistor makes ignition components last longer by reducing the voltage going to the ignition coil when the engine is running.
The engine doesn't need as hot of a spark when the engine is running (key is in RUN position). A cold engine does need a hotter spark in order to start easier. So, OEM wiring bypasses the ballast resistor when the key is in the START position.
Ballast resistors either work or have failed ... no in between. When one fails, the engine will crank and start running, as long as the key is held in the START position. When the key is released (returns to the RUN position), the engine dies. (Failed ballast resistor prevents voltage reaching coil when key is in RUN position.)
A temporary fix is possible but inadvisable. It's better to carry a spare just in case. I can swap ballast resistors in about two minutes. (It'll take longer to dig out the spare and tools than to do the actual swap.)
There are two possible ballast resistors, depending on whether yours has two or four wires going to it.
![[image]](http://www.riffgan.com/misc/rv_net_stuff/025623863443_aio.jpg)
Part number RU19, list price $12.79.
![[image]](http://www.riffgan.com/misc/rv_net_stuff/033086025186_aio.jpg)
Part number RUE1, list price $7.99
BWD part numbers, parts stores will either use that number or be able to interchange it. List prices are in US dollars and you should be able to get one for less.
Now, it's 5 am AKDT and it's been a long day ... good night.
Ballast resistors aren't actually unreliable. They are reliable and rarely fail. On the rare occasions when they do fail, it's very frustrating. It's also annoying, considering they're inexpensive and easy to replace.
The factory original in my '77 B200 van lasted between 2-3 years and thousands of miles. (I bought the van new, with 2.8 miles on the odometer.) I don't know long the replacement lasted because it was working just fine when I sold the van 6+ years later. (By then, I'd rolled over the odometer twice and approaching a third time.)
I am not aware of one failing while the engine is running and the vehicle is moving. What I know about electrical circuits and ballast resistors leads me to believe they only fail when you're trying to start the engine.
Most electrical circuits experience a very brief surge of electrical current when they're initially energized. Ballast resistors are a component in a vehicle's electrical ignition circuits. The 'shock' of this initial surge, when the ballast resistor is cold, is the most likely cause of them frying. ('Cold' is relative, mine failed when it was 90 degrees F outside.)
So, the ballast resistor is not something you really need to worry about. Instead, I make my recommendation for carrying a spare in order to help you avoid a potentially frustrating and annoying experience.
Note: My recommendation has the implicit assumption you also carry tools suitable for dismounting the old resistor and mounting the new one.