Ballenxj wrote:
And yeah, Griff is a bit of alright, isn't he?
And yeah, Griff is a bit of alright, isn't he?
My wife has strict rules about people complimenting me!! Expressing appreciation for things I do is okay ... otherwise, I wind up needing new hats, welding helmets, and safety face shields.
@Chris - The first seven digits of your VIN are significant:
F3 - MB300 chassis
3 - Compact Mid-Line Wagon (Custom Sportsman); Conv. Cab w/ Utiline
J - Unassigned GVW (not listed in most VIN tables)
T - 360-4 engine w/ 2 barrel carburetor
9 - 1979
V - Warren Truck Compact manufacturing plant
Digits eight through thirteen - serial number
So, you have a one ton chassis with a heavy duty truck engine. Assuming your title has 1979 for the year, you've don't need to worry about split-year issues.
I'd be interested in knowing if the VIN on the title matches the chassis VIN. (Yes or no would be sufficient.)
If a parts store doesn't have a listing for '79 MB300 -- or their parts lists are incomplete -- have them look under '79 B300. There may be some differences but most parts will be the same for MB300 and B400.
If you now have a four barrel carburetor, it means someone swapped intake manifold and carburetor. If you have a two barrel, it's probably a Carter BBD. (I have a couple 'parts donor' BBD laying around.)
The 360-4 means a heavy duty truck version, which are usually collectively called -3 engines. These typically had heavier duty internal components, like forged or shot-peened crankshafts, stronger connecting rods, special pistons, and so forth. (-3 engines are very desirable among race car builders ... so it's somewhat rare to find them still in motorhomes.)
BTW - Fargo was the 'badge' for Canadian and Australian MOPAR trucks ... identical to Dodge trucks, except for obscure government regulations and laws.
1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A
thank you for your time and the informations! This are great news, i'll check the VIN next weekend.
The RV is now in Poland because i have bought her there and will bring her to Germany next weekend.
We have a problem with the steering. In the position "straight on" when you move left or right the first distance it seems like the power steering pump wouldn't work, when you move the steering wheel more, everything is ok.
What could be cause for this problem? Power steering pump out of order, old or wrong fluid in the s´power steering pump? I think it's not normal
'79 Dodge Sportsman 5.9 LA 360 TEC Campmate
Eric Hysteric wrote:
We have a problem with the steering. In the position "straight on" when you move left or right the first distance it seems like the power steering pump wouldn't work, when you move the steering wheel more, everything is ok.
What could be cause for this problem? Power steering pump out of order, old or wrong fluid in the s´power steering pump? I think it's not normal
We have a problem with the steering. In the position "straight on" when you move left or right the first distance it seems like the power steering pump wouldn't work, when you move the steering wheel more, everything is ok.
What could be cause for this problem? Power steering pump out of order, old or wrong fluid in the s´power steering pump? I think it's not normal
What does the steering do with the engine off? Do you have any evidence of power steering leaks?
Some play in the steering wheel is normal. How much play becomes the question. I've driven some vehicles that are very responsive to the steering wheel and some with a lot of free play.
In my experience, the power steering pressure hose is the most common point of failure. Age and extreme temperatures tend to contribute most to that problem. Here, in interior Alaska, most people have to replace to replace OEM-grade pressure hoses every two to four years, due severely subzero temperatures. Most knowledgeable people have hoses custom made, using arctic grade rubber hose.
In the last several decades, manufacturers have downgrade the temperature range formulation of their fluids. There are additives but aviation hydraulic fluid costs less and works as well or better. At least a pint in the power steering reservoir and more is better. (A few people I know exclusively use aviation hydraulic fluid instead of any power steering fluid.)
Newer vehicles are notorious for power steering pump failure due to 'modern' power steering and extreme temperatures. The addition of aviation hydraulic seems to prevent premature failure.
However, I've never had any problems with older power steering systems, even with routine operation in -50 degrees F. So, I think it's unlikely the power steering pump is a problem for you. (The steering gets very difficult when the pump starts failing.)
Old power steering fluid could be a problem. It's possible the fluid in your motorhome has never been changed. So, Google "flushing power steering." It's not difficult, mostly tedious, messy, and requires one or more helpers.
Now for the bad news. Excessive steering free play is almost always due to the steering gear box. I emphasis 'excessive' because, as I've said, some free play is normal.
The worse possible scenario is a previous owner attempted to adjust the steering gear box. This is never, ever a good idea. This is one place where ignorance is invariably disastrous.
(There a lock nut and slotted adjustment screw on the gearbox and Some. People. Can't. Leave, It. Alone!)
I rebuild automatic transmissions ... but I will NOT touch a steering gear box. For me, new or rebuilt replacement is the only option.
Free play on most of my old Dodge motorhomes, and other vehicles, is 10-15 degrees either way ... 20-30 degrees total -- which is 1/18th to 1/12th of a full turn of the steering wheel. (Too little free play makes it difficult to drive large trucks ... been there, done that.)
I assume your motorhome doesn't wander ... tends to go where you aim it. If not, the problem is invariably somewhere other than the power steering.
![[image]](https://www.rockauto.com/info/184/7509%20shaft%20view__ra_p.jpg)
* This post was edited 09/22/17 02:17am by Eric Hysteric *
It wouldn't hurt to have a mechanic who specializes in trucks try it to see if they think the free play is excessive. Or, have one or more people who drive medium duty trucks a lot try it. (Either group may not have a lot of experience but multiple opinions wouldn't hurt.
The screw in the upper left of the picture looks like the one idiots like to fiddle with if they (unintentionally) want to really mess things up. Or, the one in the lower left of the picture below ... I'd have to look at the actual gearbox to tell you which one people tend to mess with.
Depending on the miles on your vehicle, the gearbox could just be wearing out.
![[image]](http://www.riffgan.com/misc/rv_net_stuff/777962921154_fro.jpg)
I pulled that off my commercial account ... for a '79 B300 w/ 360/5.9 engine and power steering. CarQuest p/n 27-6542 ... any parts store interchange can use that number.
You're gonna want to look and compare to make sure it's right. Measuring mounting bolt spacing, hose connections, and pitman arm shaft would also be a good idea. (This should be right but I've learned anything -- and weird -- is possible on older Dodge trucks.)
Interestingly, the power steering gearbox costs less than a manual steering gear box ... 40-50 percent less. (i.e., a little more than half the price of a manual gearbox.)
While you're at it, you might as well change the hoses, especially the pressure hose. (The return hose lasts much longer than the pressure hose ... but an old, deteriorating one could be flaking off inside the system.)
Also, drain and refill the pump and reservoir, if you don't accidentally do so while replacing the gearbox. (An oil drain/catch pan would be a good idea ... hint, hint.)
* This post was edited 09/22/17 05:54am by Eric Hysteric *
I don't trust myself. I've seen too many people screw this up.
Chris - If you feel up to it, follow VintageMopar direction. Go slow and easy ... tighten a bit and test drive ... repeat until you like the steering wheel feel and behavior.
There's another reason I prefer replacement to adjustment. On a steering gear box that's been in use for over a third of a century, the seals and so forth are getting old and may be deteriorating.
Everybody, and especially Chris - 'Power steering' is a bit of a misnomer. Hydraulic assisted steering would be more appropriate.
Losing the hydraulic pump (i.e., power steering pump), pump belt, or pressure hose will not cause you to lose steering. Instead, you'll have what amounts to manual steering ... difficult to turn when the vehicle isn't moving and becoming easier as the vehicle starts moving.
(My '49 Int'l Metro stepvan was roughly the same size as most Class C motorhomes and had manual steering. Great for building upper body strength ... I won a lot of arm-wrestling contests in high school and college, mostly because my strength wasn't readily apparent.)
The same applies to power brakes ... vacuum assisted brakes would be more appropriate. Likewise, losing the brake booster or vacuum hose turns your brakes into manual brakes, requiring more pressure on the brake pedal.