RvFNG76 wrote:
Im in centreville pretty close to alot of rv factories so mayve there otherwise the soap method would work but what about using compressed air first go around would that work????maybe alot safer
Im in centreville pretty close to alot of rv factories so mayve there otherwise the soap method would work but what about using compressed air first go around would that work????maybe alot safer
NO!! Do NOT put air in there!!
With the right mixture of air and propane, you'll have a bomb. (Difficult to set off, but never the less a bomb ... or at least, a torch wherever it leaks.)
Plus, any reputable propane refill place would have to purge the tank before refilling it.
I use a propane dealer/distributor to have my tanks refilled ... costs less than the bottle swap-out places. They also know the regulations and can check your tank for you, as well as replacing out-of-date or questionable fittings. Many can also do leak-down tests to check the whole system. They have special tools and techniques for testing ... involves pressurizing the system, closing the valve, and waiting a bit to see if pressure drops.
When I had the system in my cabin checked, they tried to hire me based on my installation. (I've worked with propane installations and know what I'm doing, but don't have the certifications.) They insisted on testing before renting me a permanent tank.
Having them test the system eliminates having to crawl around yourself. Also, they test the system to protect their liability so they typically do it free of charge.
Compartment is the main issue for changing from permanent tank to bottles. DOT has definite regulations regarding the compartments, as well as permanent tanks on vehicles.
Re-certifying tanks requires training and government certification and most reliable places won't go near a tank unless it's certified.
Enough for now, I just woke up and am caffeine deficient.
* This post was edited 07/17/17 12:32pm by Griff in Fairbanks *
1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A
A significant part (most) of my 20+ USAF career included people around me making sure "Griff has enough coffee." I was still "Griff the Grouch," but less so.
(On one important project I worked on, a Lt. Colonel, well above us in the chain of command, would keep an eye on the team's coffee pot and make more when the pot got low.)
So, bottle versus permanent propane tanks ... which is best is a coin toss, with valid opinions and desires on both sides.
I live in Alaska, with refill stations and bottle-swap stands often 50 to 100 or more miles away. Bottle-swap stands are becoming more common while refill stations are becoming scarce.
Also, for extended boondocking, I plan to tow a small trailer with tank for additional potable water and some gear. So, carrying extra propane bottles is an option.
Because refill stations are becoming scarce and often a long ways away, I'm leaning towards bottles. If I was in the (much more crowded) Lower 48, I might lean towards a more hassle-free, larger permanent tank.
It all depends on your anticipated use of the motorhome and what you think will work best for you.
One of the new things for the articles (I have two final drafts and working on the third article in a series now) is --
![[image]](http://www.riffgan.com/motorhome/electrical/tools_small.jpg)
These are what I recommend (and use) as the primary tools for electrical systems work. The first four (left to right) are representative of what I started with decades ago and all six are what I reach for most often when working on motor vehicle (and boat) electrical systems currently.
The needle-nose pliers (on the left) are a half century old and the ones I actually used back in 1973, when I completely gutted all the wiring in my '49 Int'l Metro step van and rewired it bumper to bumper.
The Dodge VIN plate should be on the door, pillar or doghouse. I have a class A and it's by my only door, with the coach plate by the driver's seat.
'73 Concord 20' Class A w/Dodge 440 - see profile for photo
Leeann wrote:
I like my tank. I have a propane co. 2 miles away, plus 2 gas stations that fill tanks...they check and fill the tank for me every time with no problem. I'd hate it if I needed to haul bottles and swap them.
The Dodge VIN plate should be on the door, pillar or doghouse. I have a class A and it's by my only door, with the coach plate by the driver's seat.
I like my tank. I have a propane co. 2 miles away, plus 2 gas stations that fill tanks...they check and fill the tank for me every time with no problem. I'd hate it if I needed to haul bottles and swap them.
The Dodge VIN plate should be on the door, pillar or doghouse. I have a class A and it's by my only door, with the coach plate by the driver's seat.
Ill have to look at again ive found the half chassis sticker with all the info on gvwr along with what it calls the vehicle identification number but when i look it up using all the vin searchs i can find it keeps coming back error. Here is the number 1131-123965