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Topic: How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's? |
Posted By: Maya.215
on 06/19/17 10:19pm
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Yeah griff that sounds just like me if I find someone that gives me good advise and it works and there knowledge on what I have is great I will travel no problem to get a straight answer instead of running around crazy getting five six different views
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Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks
on 06/19/17 10:20pm
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If you're interested, here's the original specification on my 1969/70 Explorer motorhome. The serial number matched the chassis and registration VINs. The registration stated 1970 for year but the serial number couldn't be found in any databases or decoders. (Mopar changed from an all numeric to alphanumeric serial number between 1969 and 1970.) I had a real hassle, spanning several years, before I got the split year issues worked out. 1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year) 1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in. 1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A ![]() |
Posted By: toedtoes
on 06/19/17 10:36pm
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The split years are tough. I got lucky as mine is a 1975 all the way through. My motorhome was completed in October 1975 (clippers had serial numbers not VINs for the finished product - they used the chassis VIN for registration - although that got messed up a lot when they were re-registered outside of California over the years).
1975 American Clipper RV with Dodge 360 (photo in profile) 1998 American Clipper Fold n Roll Folding Trailer Both born in Morgan Hill, CA to Irv Perch (Daddy of the Aristocrat trailers) |
Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks
on 06/19/17 11:22pm
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Motorhome Electrical Systems continued: In some cases, people without adequate knowledge and understanding can unwittingly connect the ground-side of a load component or device to wood or plastic, rather than metal. (Ask Leeann about being told the clearance lights never worked when she bought her motorhome. When she investigated, she found one of the wires for the lights connected to the wood motorhome body.) Likewise, even connecting to something metal in the motorhome coach (such as the aluminum skin) may not work because that metal may not be connected to the metal used for the vehicle's common ground. * This post was edited 06/19/17 11:31pm by Griff in Fairbanks * |
Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks
on 06/19/17 11:30pm
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If, at this point, you get the impression I don't like common ground systems, you'd be correct. Many times, I've gotten a component or device working by simply running a wire to a known-good ground. In recreational vehicles, trailers, and boats, I definitely prefer ground wires to common ground systems. Alternatively, to avoid running lots and lots of ground wires, I will use a dedicated ground bus, which is a heavy gauge copper wire that serves the same purpose as a common ground but is more reliable and easier to troubleshoot. Later in this discussion, we'll look at how to ensure you have robust, reliable ground-side connections. We'll also look at building a ground bus system versus relying on a common ground system. |
Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks
on 06/21/17 02:53pm
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Before resuming our top-down examination of motorhome electrical systems, let's look at basic components and devices that make up the connections in electrical circuits, starting with wire. Copper is the only suitable material for electrical wire, in terms of reliability, efficiency, and economy. Steel, while being less expensive, is not as efficient and more prone to corrosion. Likewise, aluminum has proven to be a less desirable material for electrical wires. Copper can experience metal fatigue due to stress caused by repeated bending. Solid large diameter copper wires are more prone to breaking due to metal fatigue. On the other hand, stranded wire, consisting of multiple small diameter wires bundled together, is more flexible and better able to withstand repeated movement. |
Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks
on 06/21/17 03:06pm
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The size of wires, both solid and stranded, is defined by its gauge. Quote: (Source - Wikipedia - American wire gauge.)![]() American wire gauge (AWG), also known as the Brown & Sharpe wire gauge, is a standardized wire gauge system used since 1857 predominantly in North America for the diameters of round, solid, nonferrous, electrically conducting wire. The larger the gauge number, the smaller the wire. Solid 16 AWG wire is 0.0508" in diameter while 10 AWG wire is a little more than double that, at 0.1019" in diameter. Quote: (Source - ibid.)![]() AWG gauges are also used to describe stranded wire. In this case, it describes a wire which is equal in cross-sectional area to the total of all the cross-sectional areas of the individual strands; the gaps between strands are not counted. So, stranded 16 AWG wire is roughly 0.0533" in diameter and 10 AWG is roughly 0.1070" in diamter. |
Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks
on 06/21/17 06:53pm
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Quote: (Source - ibid.)![]() The cross-sectional area of each gauge is an important factor for determining its current-carrying capacity. The cross-section area of solid 16 AWG copper wire is 0.002 sq. in. and 10 AWG wire is 0.008 sq. in. Obviously, 10AWG wire can carry more current (amps) than 16 AWG wire. (Do not assume that means four time as much -- the actual difference is based on complex formulae, in which the cross-sectional area is a factor, and experimentation.) Wire that is too small for the current (amps) it is carrying will overheat, melting or burning the insulation and possibly causing a fire. The Blue Sea Systems website has a online Circuit Wizard app that takes into account both the load current (in amps) and length of the conductor (wire, in feet) to identify the appropriate wire gauge. I've been involved in three vehicle fires, all caused by overloaded wires due to short circuits or previous owners using too small wires. For that reason, I usually go to one size larger wire (i.e., 14 AWG wire when 16 AWG is considered adequate.) to reduce the chances of experiencing another vehicle fire. |
Posted By: eyeteeth
on 06/23/17 05:31pm
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Well.... I need to go back to well for some advice. The boys have been playing soccer all spring, haven't had any chance to go to the track, or reason to fire up the RV. We had no problems on our trip to Florida over Christmas, now however. She son't start. Just threw a new battery in it... old one 'was' fairly tired last fall... Buuuuuut. That solved nothing. Open door, lights come on, blower fan would work, etc. Pump the gas, turn the key, everything goes dark, no crank. If it sits for a few minutes, sometimes more. When I open the door, lights will come back on. not sure what that sounds like... regulator and ignition module are both fairly new... although... I seem to go through and ignition almost annually... Doesn't sound like a the Ballast resister. So... anyone have any thoughts? I might go out and try the original ignition module... it ain't pretty... tends to be a little finicky when it gets warm, but has yet to fail me. |
Posted By: TreeSeeker
on 06/23/17 05:50pm
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Eyeteeth, I have to ask, because you didn't mention it, did you charge the new battery? New batteries are often somewhat discharged. Also, check the battery connections, make sure they are tight (at both ends) and that they are not corroded. If your house battery doesn't have a momentary contact switch, could it be on (connected to the house battery). If the house battery was low it could be sucking all the power from the engine battery. Or, it has already drained the engine battery. I'm sure Griff will have a whole laundry list of items to check. |
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