* This post was edited 10/13/16 08:21pm by regis101 *
Peace. ~RL
regis101 wrote:
Do you have any brand preferences? I can hit the inter webs for info.
Do you have any brand preferences? I can hit the inter webs for info.
I haven't had any reason to research chargers and converters lately. With the way and pace the technology is improving, I wait until I'm ready to buy one before digging into the literature.
I really. really dislike making any brand recommendations ... it's backfired too often, usually because I don't fully understand the person's needs and resources.
Even when I'm working under a consulting contract, I usually give the customer several suggested alternatives. When they insist on me making the choice, it's spelled out in the contract with caveats regarding possible downsides.
Bear in mind that a motorhome converter is basically just a (nominal) 12 VDC power supply and is intended to just supply current to the coach circuits. In that respect, the plug-in "wall warts" are just as good, although slightly less powerful and convenient.
All you really need is a 120/12 volt step-down transformer and a bridge rectifier. Fancier converters/power supplies use electronic circuits instead of the transformer and often have added circuitry to "smooth out" the supplied current, especially for delicate electronics.
On the other hand, quality battery chargers have much more sophisticated circuitry to match the output to the battery's state and even temperature, in order to better charge the battery and especially extend its life.
This is why I prefer separate converters and battery chargers, under the principle of "the right tool for the right job." Any compromise that combines the two tools is precisely that -- a compromise that doesn't necessarily do either job as well as possible.
With that said, I have always had good luck with Schumacher battery chargers ... but I usually buy the more expensive models. I also had a Sears Diehard charger (which I believe was actually made by Schumacher) that lasted decades ... right up until my second ex-son-in-law left it out in the rain. I also have reason to believe Optima chargers are good, although I haven't had any experience with them. (The assumption is their chargers are good in order to maintain the premium reputation of their batteries.)
VERY IMPORTANT NOTE: We're talking about traditional lead acid batteries, including AGM batteries like Optima's. Gel cell batteries are a completely different story and require special chargers. More advanced batteries, such as lithium and newer technology, are even more finicky when it comes to charging, which is the reason for frequent news stories about devices catching fire.
Note: Whenever I find a battery warming pad or blanket, I throw it away. Instead, I use an automatic multi-stage battery charger to keep the battery warm and fully charged in temperatures below freezing and especially in severely sub-zero temperatures common in interior Alaska. (The charging process, including "maintenance" stage, keeps the battery warm.)
1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A
bpwsww51 wrote:
I just bought a 1981 georgie boy swinger class A with dodge 440 engine. Slowly making upgrades to inside. Can anyone tell me where or how to get a chasis manual? Thanks
I just bought a 1981 georgie boy swinger class A with dodge 440 engine. Slowly making upgrades to inside. Can anyone tell me where or how to get a chasis manual? Thanks
Sorry, I missed your post ...
eBay is where I've found most of the ones I have. (I get a dirty look whenever my wife finds out I've gotten another motor vehicle manual.)
There is a place that sells reprints of old parts catalogs and maintenance manuals, both traditional print and on CD/DVD-ROM. I believe it's located in Washington state and advertises on the Internet.
Another place is the reference section at your local library.
If you manage to get your hands on an old OEM manual, guard it closely ... they're worth more than gold.
Leeann wrote:
Progressive Dynamics. I got a refurb 45 amp 9100-series and added the Charge Wizard separately, but the 9200 series comes with the charge wizard built in. The charge wizard makes sure your batteries don't boil - it's magic - and automatically selects the correct mode to charge or maintain your battery.
http://www.progressivedyn.com/power_converters_9200.html
Progressive Dynamics. I got a refurb 45 amp 9100-series and added the Charge Wizard separately, but the 9200 series comes with the charge wizard built in. The charge wizard makes sure your batteries don't boil - it's magic - and automatically selects the correct mode to charge or maintain your battery.
http://www.progressivedyn.com/power_converters_9200.html
Listen to Leeann ... I often depend upon her for suggestions and guidance.
regis101 wrote:
Yeah see. Now I'm thinking. I could stay with a regular convertor or move to one of those load centers that do it all. It would have a sensing relay so that when plugged into shore power the 12v battery source is cut off as a supply yet still gets a charge and the 12v appliances still function. At least I think thats how it works.
The Progressive Dynamics brand is also on my radar. I'll dig into it. Thanks for the reminder.
And to continue on with the logic, I'm seeing that with my set up the "source" switch makes for two types of camping. One is that I drive to the CG or super secret secluded stealthy spot, select Battery on the switch and live off of a charged battery. The second is I plug into shore power , select Converter and get the added feature of interior 120v whatevers along with the 12v function
I could add some solar to the battery side but that's another story.
Yeah see. Now I'm thinking. I could stay with a regular convertor or move to one of those load centers that do it all. It would have a sensing relay so that when plugged into shore power the 12v battery source is cut off as a supply yet still gets a charge and the 12v appliances still function. At least I think thats how it works.
The Progressive Dynamics brand is also on my radar. I'll dig into it. Thanks for the reminder.
And to continue on with the logic, I'm seeing that with my set up the "source" switch makes for two types of camping. One is that I drive to the CG or super secret secluded stealthy spot, select Battery on the switch and live off of a charged battery. The second is I plug into shore power , select Converter and get the added feature of interior 120v whatevers along with the 12v function
I could add some solar to the battery side but that's another story.
While it's worthwhile to survey the market and technology, you really need to analyze the functionality you need and want ... then find a unit that satisfies your functional requirements.
The "automatic" sensing of 120VAC is basically a mechanical or electronic relay. The furnace in my '70 Explorer had just such a relay so it'd run better when plugged into shore power.
Yes, your thinking regarding the "source" switch is accurate and sums it up nicely.
For what it's worth, I'm still exploring ways to make everything automatic and effortless ... in among all my other projects.
P.S. Am making progress on the house building ... but getting slowed down by subfreezing temperatures.
http://www.progressivedyn.com/all_in_one_pd4000.html
Charge wizard built it, under $200, plenty of circuits left over... everything works better. Seriously. If I was going to run AC, I used to HAVE to be plugged into 30 amp service. After the new converter, I got stuck on a hot summer day on a 20 amp service and decided to run it "while I could"... it never tripped the breaker... never had a problem.
Had I known how easy it was going to be or much of a difference it was going to make, I would never have put it off for years... and years.
The old regulator had a date stamp of 10-00, as in October 2010. Industry standard is to replace regulators that are more than 15 years old, although some companies claim their regulators will last 25 years.
Personally, I prefer to replace regulators that are more than 10 years old. I actually bought a new regulator several years ago but hadn't gotten around to using it to replace the old regulator. (It sat in the shop until today.)
Replacing it was on my summer to-do lists for a couple of years but I never seemed to get that far down on the list(s). The old regulator started acting up early this fall and finally failed about a week ago.
Propane stops vaporizing around 25-30 degrees (F) below zero. We use a direct vent propane heater as the primary heat in the cabin we live in. When temperatures drop too low for the propane, we switch to the wood stove. (The wood stove can heat the cabin up to 90+ degrees, even when it's 50 below outside.)
It's supposed to get warmer (above zero and even into the teens) in a day or two, so I was trying to wait until then to replace the regulator. Unfortunately, we ran out of firewood so I really had to do it today. (My wife is going to get more firewood the next time she goes to town but didn't want to go this soon.)
For everyone reading this, you might want to consider replacing the propane regulator in your motorhome before the next camping season rather than wait until fails like I just did.
Griff in Fairbanks wrote:
Voice of experience: There are few things quite like changing out a propane regulator when the temperature is 17 degrees (F) below zero. Just finished doing exactly that.
Personally, I prefer to replace regulators that are more than 10 years old.
Voice of experience: There are few things quite like changing out a propane regulator when the temperature is 17 degrees (F) below zero. Just finished doing exactly that.
Personally, I prefer to replace regulators that are more than 10 years old.
Griff, this sounds like really good advice. I will look into this.
Good to hear from you.
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