There is a two position switch in the closet that allows the 12v system to work off battery or the converter via shore power.
The switch has three wires. One from the battery. One from the converter. The third goes to the 12v fuse panel. The converter 12v output is not connected in any way to the battery.
It appears that the coach battery does not get charged when the switch is in converter position and hooked up to shore power.
I used a VOM to test continuity between the three terminals on the two position switch and they do not connect internally. Its either one way or the other.
It appears to only get a charge while driving via a solenoid on the firewall that is activated from the ignition switch.
It is only a 15 amp converter and I wouldn't mind swapping it out with a new 30 amp. I'm looking at the IOTA 30 DLS line with smart charger. I've upgraded the wiring from the converter to the two position switch with a #10 and the battery side already had #10's.
Hence, the big question. With a newer converter, am I to think that there will be a three wire splice- the converter output, the battery, and the 12v fuse panel? Or do the newer converters have separate terminals for the 12v fuse panel and battery charging?
I'm thinking that a converter is not much more than a transformer, at least my 40 yr old converter, so I'm concerned about back feed.
'Lil help? Moderator- please notify if this needs moved? Thanks,
Peace. ~RL
regis101 wrote:
Wiring question on a '73. This might need its own thread but thought to ask here first.
There is a two position switch in the closet that allows the 12v system to work off battery or the converter via shore power.
The switch has three wires. One from the battery. One from the converter. The third goes to the 12v fuse panel. The converter 12v output is not connected in any way to the battery.
It appears that the coach battery does not get charged when the switch is in converter position and hooked up to shore power.
I used a VOM to test continuity between the three terminals on the two position switch and they do not connect internally. Its either one way or the other.
It appears to only get a charge while driving via a solenoid on the firewall that is activated from the ignition switch.
It is only a 15 amp converter and I wouldn't mind swapping it out with a new 30 amp. I'm looking at the IOTA 30 DLS line with smart charger. I've upgraded the wiring from the converter to the two position switch with a #10 and the battery side already had #10's.
Hence, the big question. With a newer converter, am I to think that there will be a three wire splice- the converter output, the battery, and the 12v fuse panel? Or do the newer converters have separate terminals for the 12v fuse panel and battery charging?
I'm thinking that a converter is not much more than a transformer, at least my 40 yr old converter, so I'm concerned about back feed.
'Lil help? Moderator- please notify if this needs moved? Thanks,
Wiring question on a '73. This might need its own thread but thought to ask here first.
There is a two position switch in the closet that allows the 12v system to work off battery or the converter via shore power.
The switch has three wires. One from the battery. One from the converter. The third goes to the 12v fuse panel. The converter 12v output is not connected in any way to the battery.
It appears that the coach battery does not get charged when the switch is in converter position and hooked up to shore power.
I used a VOM to test continuity between the three terminals on the two position switch and they do not connect internally. Its either one way or the other.
It appears to only get a charge while driving via a solenoid on the firewall that is activated from the ignition switch.
It is only a 15 amp converter and I wouldn't mind swapping it out with a new 30 amp. I'm looking at the IOTA 30 DLS line with smart charger. I've upgraded the wiring from the converter to the two position switch with a #10 and the battery side already had #10's.
Hence, the big question. With a newer converter, am I to think that there will be a three wire splice- the converter output, the battery, and the 12v fuse panel? Or do the newer converters have separate terminals for the 12v fuse panel and battery charging?
I'm thinking that a converter is not much more than a transformer, at least my 40 yr old converter, so I'm concerned about back feed.
'Lil help? Moderator- please notify if this needs moved? Thanks,
I don't see any reason for a different thread ... this is the kind of question that gets answered on this thread.
Yes, definitely get a new converter ... and plan to spend a bit to get a good one. Cheap ones often lack battery charging circuits and cannot be relied upon to NOT boil the batteries dry.
There's been tremendous strides in charger and converter technology, especially over the past decade. I wouldn't use a 40 year old converter for anything other than a door stop ... due to the antiquated technology. (40 years ago predates integrated circuits and transistor technology was in its infancy.)
Your switch is what's sometimes known as a "source" switch, allowing you to choose between the source of the 12v current for coach circuits.
There should be three terminals on the back of the switch. The center terminal should be connected to your 12v fuse panel. One of the outer terminals are connected to your battery and the other is connected to your converter.
Personally, I prefer to use a separate multi-stage battery charger, plugged into a 120VAC outlet, to charge the batteries. However, some better converters may have an integrated multi-stage battery charger. If the converter you choose doesn't have this separate circuit, go with what I prefer.
1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A
With the IOTA 30 DLS, it's possible to over- or under-charge the batteries unless you watch it closely. If you rely on the IOTA 30 DLS to charge your batteries, you could easily shorten the life of your batteries and wind up replacing them more often.
I'd either keep looking or use the IOTA 30 DLS solely as a converter and rely on a separate quality multi-stage charger.
I'm browsing for a new converter. Kinda goes with all of the other upgrades thus far. Its been a fun project.
If the converter has but one set of 12v output terminals, I'm not understanding how it can produce a two stage or a four stage battery charge mode, ( IOTA DLS with IQ4 smart charging ),
and keep the 12v appliances happy also ? Or will they get the increased voltage effect also.
Would be kind of odd to notice the interior lighting getting brighter or dimmer with various voltage outputs.
Perhaps this is why you state separate converters. This could work for me also since I have the "source" switch.
http://www.progressivedyn.com/power_converters_9200.html
'73 Concord 20' Class A w/Dodge 440 - see profile for photo
The Progressive Dynamics brand is also on my radar. I'll dig into it. Thanks for the reminder.
And to continue on with the logic, I'm seeing that with my set up the "source" switch makes for two types of camping. One is that I drive to the CG or super secret secluded stealthy spot, select Battery on the switch and live off of a charged battery. The second is I plug into shore power , select Converter and get the added feature of interior 120v whatevers along with the 12v function
I could add some solar to the battery side but that's another story.