Coast Resorts Open Roads Forum: How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?

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Topic: How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?

Posted By: Wolf_n_Kat on 07/31/16 02:44pm

Griff in Fairbanks wrote:

Thank you VERY much for expanding and improving on my suggestions!

I remember being told some of those tests, 40 or so years ago, by an older guy who grew up with the boys that started NASCAR.

The water evaporation radiator cooler is an intriguing addition for motorhomes ... I've added it to my list of possibilities for my project.

I sincerely hope you will stick around. I think your continuing input on this thread will be helpful. (There will probably be a chorus agreeing with this sentiment.)

Again, thank you ... and welcome.

Da, thank you and please stick around! Some of us (specifically, moi) need all the help we can get!!

On that subject, I give you... The Beast, or as it was previously licensed in Nevada, Bertha74. I just call it The Beast.

I also call it a few other things, but since this is a family-friendly forum, I'll refrain from going into any more detail. Suffice it to say, I've gotten rather inventive, enough that Kat has turned around and looked at me, then said "Inventing new words, I see..." Okay, here's the story:

I was stupid. I was WAY beyond stupid.

Not having bought an RV before, there were things that I didn't think of looking at, or there were things that I thought "I can fix that", without knowing how in-depth I was going to have to get.

Like, 'over my head' in-depth. The parking brake cable was just the beginning. I also know that I'm going to have to find/make a gasket for the generator carb (an old Onan, I believe, and definitely no longer made). And while I knew there had been a leak in the roof, I didn't know until I got into it how much and for how long it had been leaking.

To be honest, what I've got is a 'tear it down to the frame and start all over' restoration. ASSUMING I could come up with the money for that (If I could come up with the money for it, I could buy a newer, more reliable RV!), I'm not sure I'd do an identical restoration. I do NOT care for the way the overhang is an 'under-cut' style (the top juts out farther than the bottom), for starters. And I'm not sure I care for the big, nearly full-width window in it. But I've got what I've got, and I'll do what I can with what I've got. If that makes any sense.

So I'm probably going to need some serious hand-holding. And right now, I'm getting really serious about getting this stuff done and getting The Beast in shape to up and run at a moment's notice. See http://mynews4.com/news/local/tule-peak-fire-burns-north-of-winnemucca-ranch-road for 'why' I want The Beast able to up and run. Google "Virginia Mountain Complex Fire" for the nitty-gritty. One of those fires (the Sage Fire) is about 10 miles from here, on the other side of the mountain. If it goes up and over, we're toast.

Pun intended, of course. [emoticon]

So Griff, you said something about finding the chassis number? I caught that the VIN may or may not be the same, and for that matter, the door-plate sticker may or may not be accurate. I'm about to crawl under it and see if I can find something, but what exactly am I looking for? Is it like a number stamped into the frame, or is it some kind of sticker? If it's a sticker, I'm assuming it's probably one of those stamped metal jobbies with the really sloppy, sticky glue like they used to use in the military?

Thanks loads, guys (and gals!) for all the help you've given me so far - and for the inspiration to go on!

Wolf

Posted By: Leeann on 07/31/16 03:31pm

It should have two plates on it - one from the coach manufacturer (mine's paper) and one from Dodge, which should be metal.

As for the Onan parts, contact Boomer at six five one 437 2826 M-F 10-7 S-S 12-6 cent time
He's the used Onan parts and service guy (new, too) and is in MN. Have the info from the Onan tag and he should be able to hook you up (he's on the Onan Engine Club yahoo group).

'73 Concord 20' Class A w/Dodge 440 - see profile for photo

Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks on 07/31/16 03:57pm

Chassis VIN is stamped into the frame before the frame is painted. While some of the letters/numbers may have gotten partially filled in by paint, most of the VIN should visible once you get past the grime and dirt that collected on the frame over the years.

The magenta arrow in the following picture shows where I usually find the chassis VIN. The chassis in the picture is a 1969 M300. I have found the chassis VIN in the same place on a 1972 M375 chassis and a 1973 RM350 chassis.

[image]

The following are close-ups of the chassis VIN on the 1969 M300, after the frame has been cleaned and stripped but before being prepped for painting.

[image]

Note: Mopar changed the format of their VINs between 1969 and 1970, so this is an example of a pre-1970 VIN.

1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A

Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks on 07/31/16 03:59pm

Oops, sorry about the size of the middle picture. I reduced resolution to decrease file size but forgot to scale the image.

Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks on 07/31/16 04:05pm

This is an example of the plate from Dodge that Leeann mentioned above. Over the years, Mopar change the format, etc. of the plate so yours may not look exactly like this.

[image]

Note: Not all coach manufacturers chose to mount this plate anywhere when they built the coach. That's why I stress getting the chassis VIN off the frame.

Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks on 07/31/16 04:13pm

As I understand it, federal law mandates a non-removable second VIN hidden somewhere on every vehicle. This is part of what leads to conviction of car thieves that use VIN plates off junked cars to try to resell stolen vehicles.

This is also a requirement for boat identification numbers. (Manufacturer's serial numbers, not state registration numbers.)

Posted By: eyeteeth on 07/31/16 04:30pm

Well...

Drained the coolant. Still looked pretty good actually. Replaced the lower hose with the universal as It was the only one I could find that was stiffer than what was already on there. (couldn't get a spring to insert) Put a new cap one and ran a coolant flush using Zyrex product. Once it cooled, drained it again, and ran water through the system until it came out clear. Filled wit fresh coolant, then went for a drive.

It was better... but nothing I'd want to drive any distance. The gauge hung right at the very top of the gauge, then would occasionally just all the way up to the "H" then come back down...

About the only thing I haven't done, is the water pump... so... what is the part number for the proper water pump. I can't remember if you listed that last time or not. But... that's the only other thing I can think of. at this point.

Posted By: Wolf_n_Kat on 07/31/16 04:53pm

Thank you, Leeann and Griff! Now, let's see what I can dig up...

Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks on 07/31/16 04:59pm

Eyeteeth -

1979 Dodge CB300 with 7.2L 440CID gas engine - CarQuest part numbers:

Water pump - T4078

Fel-Pro Cooling System Gaskets

- 11730 (to body)
- 11731 (to block)

BTW - have you read and tried VintageMopar's suggestions? (previous thread page)

Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks on 07/31/16 05:35pm

eyeteeth wrote:

The antifreeze may look okay but not be sufficient. The only way to be sure is use a professional tool check it. While they're not cheap, I have a refractometer for checking antifreeze.

Make sure you have a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water. (Don't buy premixed antifreeze -- you're paying extra for water.) Pour a gallon of pure antifreeze into the radiator, refill the jug with water and pour that into the radiator. Repeat until the radiator is full then run the engine until the engine is warm and the thermostat has opened. While the engine is still running, top off the radiator with antifreeze. (I usually leave the radiator cap off while doing this and watch through the radiator neck until everything starts to mix and the level drops.)

Growing up in northern Minnesota, I recall a lot of cracked engine blocks due to insufficient antifreeze.

A 50/50 mix will protect the vehicle down to mildly subzero temperatures. Here in interior Alaska, with -50°F common, knowledgeable people use a mix of 2/3 antifreeze and 1/3 water.

However, do NOT be tempted to use pure antifreeze! It will actually provide LESS protection than a suitable mixture. Protection follows a curve that bottoms out around 60-70% antifreeze before rising again as antifreeze approaches 100% concentration.

Actually, even a relatively small concentration of antifreeze will protect a stored vehicle as long as you don't start the vehicle in cold temperatures. The fan causes a rush of air through the radiator and around the engine that super-cools everything. (Actual figures on the initial temperature plunge is amazing.)

I'm starting to agree with VintageMopar about the possibility of air pockets in system. The fact the temperature occasionally rises and drops back down indicates coolant may be momentarily pushed into where those pockets are.

An additional test: When the engine is running hot, move the interior heat lever all the way to hot and turn on the heater fan. If the engine temp drops noticeably, let us know.

I have a friend here in Fairbanks that has what he calls his "winter Pinto." It doesn't even have a radiator. Instead, he has extra large heater cores and fans in the interior and uses them to keep the engine at the right temperature. (He's a Pinto fan and has collected every one he can find in interior Alaska.)

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