Griff in Fairbanks wrote:
When I worked at CarQuest, it became known the store had a motorhome expert. One person drove 100 miles (one-way) to see me. He arrived on a Thursday, to find out I worked Friday through Sunday. The boss offered to call me, knowing I'd be glad to help, but he insisted on staying at a motel and waiting for my regular shift.
He made several calls home to get his son to crawl around and find chassis VIN and other numbers I wanted. By the time he left on Saturday, he'd left with over $400 worth of parts and improvements. (That's after I gave him an extra discount.)
The boss kept track of him. In total, he made six 200 mile round trips to talk to me and spent over $1,000 fixing up his motorhome.
On the final trip, he showed up with the motorhome on Friday to show me and the boss his work ... and he was beaming like the father of a new baby.
When I worked at CarQuest, it became known the store had a motorhome expert. One person drove 100 miles (one-way) to see me. He arrived on a Thursday, to find out I worked Friday through Sunday. The boss offered to call me, knowing I'd be glad to help, but he insisted on staying at a motel and waiting for my regular shift.
He made several calls home to get his son to crawl around and find chassis VIN and other numbers I wanted. By the time he left on Saturday, he'd left with over $400 worth of parts and improvements. (That's after I gave him an extra discount.)
The boss kept track of him. In total, he made six 200 mile round trips to talk to me and spent over $1,000 fixing up his motorhome.
On the final trip, he showed up with the motorhome on Friday to show me and the boss his work ... and he was beaming like the father of a new baby.
Now that's a real feel good story. I'll bet it did, make you feel good that is. ;-)
Downsizing ">
My favorite story from working there was the guy who showed up in mid-January looking for a carburetor kit for a mid-30's Chevy. All he knew was the year and he thought it had a six cylinder engine. To add to the "interest," the car was sitting in the woods, in interior Alaska, 30 miles from any plowed road.
A coworker and I did some sleuthing and called him, four days later, to come pick up his carb kit.
The Regional Director of Operations happened to be in the store when the customer showed up in late spring, gushing about how we were able to find the right kit with so little information.
1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A
Griff in Fairbanks wrote:
My favorite story from working there was the guy who showed up in mid-January looking for a carburetor kit for a mid-30's Chevy. All he knew was the year and he thought it had a six cylinder engine. To add to the "interest," the car was sitting in the woods, in interior Alaska, 30 miles from any plowed road.
A coworker and I did some sleuthing and called him, four days later, to come pick up his carb kit.
The Regional Director of Operations happened to be in the store when the customer showed up in late spring, gushing about how we were able to find the right kit with so little information.
My favorite story from working there was the guy who showed up in mid-January looking for a carburetor kit for a mid-30's Chevy. All he knew was the year and he thought it had a six cylinder engine. To add to the "interest," the car was sitting in the woods, in interior Alaska, 30 miles from any plowed road.
A coworker and I did some sleuthing and called him, four days later, to come pick up his carb kit.
The Regional Director of Operations happened to be in the store when the customer showed up in late spring, gushing about how we were able to find the right kit with so little information.
That was a feather in your cap.
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/biggrin.gif "biggrin")
Ballenxj wrote:
COOL! What engine does it have?
GEJ1963 wrote:
Adding myself to the count. Downsized and now calling a 1976 Dodge Midas 20' my home.
Adding myself to the count. Downsized and now calling a 1976 Dodge Midas 20' my home.
COOL! What engine does it have?
It has a 360.
goreds2 wrote:
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/smile.gif "smile")
GEJ1963 wrote:
Adding myself to the count. Downsized and now calling a 1976 Dodge Midas 20' my home. Bought it two months ago and brought it back to life using this forum and other resources to figure things out. Still a long list of repairs/replacement, but making progress each day.
Picture please. Adding myself to the count. Downsized and now calling a 1976 Dodge Midas 20' my home. Bought it two months ago and brought it back to life using this forum and other resources to figure things out. Still a long list of repairs/replacement, but making progress each day.
![[image]](https://www.rv.net/SharedContent/cfb/memberphotos/28895571/rig/image.jpeg)
Leeann wrote:
Welcome, GEJ1963!
Congrats on your purchase - and bringing an oldie but goodie back to life.
Welcome, GEJ1963!
Congrats on your purchase - and bringing an oldie but goodie back to life.
Thank You. She needs some work, but it was like stepping into a 70's time capsule. I couldn't pass it up.
* This post was edited 07/31/16 01:13pm by GEJ1963 *
Your one of the first ones come checkout time.
The other high class motor homers in the Dutchies and Fancys are still loafin around.
You pump up to 15 times, wait afew seconds, turn the key over to aux. while you ask yourself is it ready?
Turning the key all the way over it happens.
The ole 440 fires on the first taste without even hearing the starter turn.
Its running on high choke with the perfect rumble...emitting the perfect blend of aromatic un-burnt fuel odor all about.
Then after 30 seconds or so you tap the peddle.
The beast rumbles silently awaiting D.
You wave goodbye.
I like that.
But before tearing water pump off, check lower hose position and condition as was previously stated. a hose that was not properly trimmed can kink at high temps, and straighten out when cool. or suck shut. laying underneath and revving it up when hot , it should be obvious.
Next heat transfer, if you have the right radiator and you didn't get short changed with a 2 core, when it needs a 3 or 4 row core.
With it hot and running, and if you don't have a condenser in front, you can hose radiator down slowly, spray it lightly to bring down temp then douse it. as it drys out the blocked off rows will stay wet longer. or a HF IF thermometer, but i am old school..50-70 degree temp drop across radiator from inlet to outlet is normal.
also the fan shroud is a requirement, but at highway speeds the ram air should be all that is needed.
air pockets in the block and heads from low coolant is possible, but not likely, but needs to be full, that engine will not hold air in it.
on a lighter note, i read where someone spliced a washer pump into his fresh water supply, and put sprayers in front of his radiator for long hills on his class a 440.
harperx wrote:
![[image]](https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7514/28383224521_beab56821e_c.jpg)
Let's see if this works! I finally got my RV out for the first time this year. What fun! Much easier than tent camping. Kids and I had a ball.
Randy
Let's see if this works! I finally got my RV out for the first time this year. What fun! Much easier than tent camping. Kids and I had a ball.
Randy
Thats a nice rig you have..
Round headlights!
VintageMopar wrote:
to eyeteeth. just a few ideas from an old technician. Not sure if these are possible on your vehicle, but you can diagnose if its a heat transfer problem or circulation. When you have the vehicle fully warmed up (upper hose is hot), shut off and remove upper hose at radiator. with end held at 45 degree angle, start and idle engine, then goose it to 1500-2000 rpm, there should be a geyser of 3-6 inches come out that hose, if not, your water pump is not pumping. corroded, loose or improper impeller vanes would be my first thoughts.
But before tearing water pump off, check lower hose position and condition as was previously stated. a hose that was not properly trimmed can kink at high temps, and straighten out when cool. or suck shut. laying underneath and revving it up when hot , it should be obvious.
Next heat transfer, if you have the right radiator and you didn't get short changed with a 2 core, when it needs a 3 or 4 row core.
With it hot and running, and if you don't have a condenser in front, you can hose radiator down slowly, spray it lightly to bring down temp then douse it. as it drys out the blocked off rows will stay wet longer. or a HF IF thermometer, but i am old school..50-70 degree temp drop across radiator from inlet to outlet is normal.
also the fan shroud is a requirement, but at highway speeds the ram air should be all that is needed.
air pockets in the block and heads from low coolant is possible, but not likely, but needs to be full, that engine will not hold air in it.
on a lighter note, i read where someone spliced a washer pump into his fresh water supply, and put sprayers in front of his radiator for long hills on his class a 440.
to eyeteeth. just a few ideas from an old technician. Not sure if these are possible on your vehicle, but you can diagnose if its a heat transfer problem or circulation. When you have the vehicle fully warmed up (upper hose is hot), shut off and remove upper hose at radiator. with end held at 45 degree angle, start and idle engine, then goose it to 1500-2000 rpm, there should be a geyser of 3-6 inches come out that hose, if not, your water pump is not pumping. corroded, loose or improper impeller vanes would be my first thoughts.
But before tearing water pump off, check lower hose position and condition as was previously stated. a hose that was not properly trimmed can kink at high temps, and straighten out when cool. or suck shut. laying underneath and revving it up when hot , it should be obvious.
Next heat transfer, if you have the right radiator and you didn't get short changed with a 2 core, when it needs a 3 or 4 row core.
With it hot and running, and if you don't have a condenser in front, you can hose radiator down slowly, spray it lightly to bring down temp then douse it. as it drys out the blocked off rows will stay wet longer. or a HF IF thermometer, but i am old school..50-70 degree temp drop across radiator from inlet to outlet is normal.
also the fan shroud is a requirement, but at highway speeds the ram air should be all that is needed.
air pockets in the block and heads from low coolant is possible, but not likely, but needs to be full, that engine will not hold air in it.
on a lighter note, i read where someone spliced a washer pump into his fresh water supply, and put sprayers in front of his radiator for long hills on his class a 440.
Thank you VERY much for expanding and improving on my suggestions!
I remember being told some of those tests, 40 or so years ago, by an older guy who grew up with the boys that started NASCAR.
The water evaporation radiator cooler is an intriguing addition for motorhomes ... I've added it to my list of possibilities for my project.
I sincerely hope you will stick around. I think your continuing input on this thread will be helpful. (There will probably be a chorus agreeing with this sentiment.)
Again, thank you ... and welcome.