Coast Resorts Open Roads Forum: How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?

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Topic: How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?

Posted By: TreeSeeker on 07/14/15 09:15am

Chickennhead,

I don't know what the difference between the Miro-Flex 350 (yours) and the 352 is, but there are some 352's for sale here:

http://www.wolfsmarine.com/Miro-Flex-352-353-Trailer-Lights-Pair-P4613.aspx

They look the same.

Posted By: regis101 on 07/14/15 08:21pm

Question to those that changed to LED's.
Any difference in turn signal firing time? Do they blink faster or the same as before.
Having a lower draw than Incandescent lamps can make the flasher wonky, iirc.
No big but just wondering.

Peace. ~RL

Posted By: Leeann on 07/14/15 08:34pm

I had bought a replacement heavy duty electromechanical flasher (EL12) at Advance Auto, so no trouble at all. I had already bought it because our race trailer has a ton of LEDs on it and I didn't want any trouble with the ancient mechanical flasher.

'73 Concord 20' Class A w/Dodge 440 - see profile for photo

Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks on 07/14/15 08:47pm

regis101 wrote:

They typically require a readily-available flasher that depends on electronics rather than heat-resistance to activate the cycling.

Old style flashers relied on resistance to open and close the contacts. This is why these flashers tended to cycle faster with additional lights, such as from a trailer.

These are gradually being replaced by electronic flashers that don't rely on resistance. These flashers have circuitry that opens and closes the circuit based on a timer, allowing them to operate with a
variable number and types of lights. You can hook up a trailer without having to change the flasher ever time. They will also drive LEDs or a mixture of LEDs and incandescent lights without changing the flash cycle. They also tend to last longer than the old thermal flashers.

These days, most available flashers are the electronic type and it's hard to find the old thermal type.

Whenever I run across one of older thermal flashers, I replace it with a newer electronic flasher and toss the old one.

Both types are identical in appearance and connection so it's difficult to tell the difference without close examination, testing, or looking up the specification.

1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A

Posted By: eyeteeth on 07/15/15 08:06am

Since I am back to working on the old girl, I once again have a few questions.

Next project I need to take on, is my DC seems to be taking a dump. It started with an interior, and the exterior light. Then included a DC power source and the TV antennae booster... now it seems to have crept to the other side and taken out the other DC power source...

All fuses are good. I'm thinking they simply lost ground. But... I'm not much into electrical. So, what is a good procedure to test/repair?

On a side note... Part of why I had disappeared from the forum for a while was lack of funds to do anything. Another victim of the economy... ended up letting a number of things go. Still having problems getting extra $$$ to get the parts, be decided I wanted to keep the old RV going. I became rather discouraged when I discovered I need to do a lot of work in the cab over area. Not sure how, where, or when to tackle that... still debating really. But either way, I need to get electrical working properly.

Thanks.

Posted By: goreds2 on 07/15/15 10:22am

Has anyone worked on a 1989 Dodge Xplorer? I am having trouble with the drivers side electric window. Is the panel easy to remove? Hopefully, it just fell off of the track.

[image]

See Picture In My Profile
I have a 1989 Dodge XPLORER RV Class B - Purchased 10/15/10 IN CASH
Fiance' purchased a Class C 2002 Dynamax Carri-go on 5/1/15 IN CASH
We've got the best of both worlds

Posted By: TreeSeeker on 07/15/15 12:01pm

Eyeteeth,

These articles should get you started.

BATTERIES--AND OTHER ELECTRIC STUFF

The 12v Side of Life

Intro to Dry Camping

Battery Education

Posted By: eyeteeth on 07/15/15 01:17pm

Thanks Tree Seeker, I've seen a couple of those already, and really don't get me where I want to be. They are mostly about batteries... not the wiring itself. Maybe someone has previous experience or advice on the subject. All the wiring is, of course, hidden. In walls, ceilings, panels, etc. One of the items I can't seem to find, is how the DC works. My thought is it grounds to the Frame... but I really can't find a confirmation. If that is the case... Can't I just run new grounds to the frame? Does that cause problems? I can't 'find' where the current DC is connected to the frame anywhere... maybe that too is inside the wall? What is the accepted means to add a new ground? How do I get it to the frame? If the Engine battery is grounded to the frame... and the house batter is grounded to the frame... wouldn't that cause some weird problem/hazard?

Posted By: Leeann on 07/15/15 03:13pm

Hiya, eyeteeth!

You can try contacting Monaco (they own Holiday Rambler) and see if you can get a manual from them. Apparently, depending on the rep you get, you can get a copy of the original owner's manual.
1-877-466-6226

I don't have a Holiday Rambler or Monaco diagram for you, but these are from my Concord (made by Champion):

[image]

* This post was edited 07/15/15 03:22pm by Leeann *

Posted By: TreeSeeker on 07/15/15 04:11pm

Eyeteeth,

Quote:

They are mostly about batteries

Batteries are important. Did you check your battery? Has it been getting charged regularly (since you mentioned you haven't done anything on your RV in a long time)? What is the voltage at the battery? At the light sockets?

Is your DC circuit running off the battery right now, or off the converter? If the converter is plugged in then the 12v system is being handled by the converter.

Do the lights work when the converter is plugged in?

Do the lights work when the converter is not plugged in?

What is the incoming voltage at the 12v fuses?

That should be enough to get you started. If you don't have a multi-meter you need one.

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