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Topic: How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's? |
Posted By: passandprint
on 07/01/15 07:30pm
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Griff in Fairbanks - Thanks for the response that's very helpful I will grab poly seal to throw in there.
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Posted By: Chicknnhead
on 07/13/15 10:14am
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well went to get my motorhome at the storage lot on Saturday, and it was vandalized! among the things I have to cleanup on the inside and replace, the only thing on the outside was the tail lights. I NEED HELP locating the bases if anyone has a set of these bases( I have extra lens) I would be interested. maybe you know of a rv in a junk yard that has these tail lights, wasting away Passenger side, I can cleanup, I got it working again. ![]() the drivers side is beyond repair. ![]() ![]() ![]() part number on the back of the base is MIRO-Flex 350 ![]() Just a picture of our setup ![]() |
Posted By: Phantom59
on 07/13/15 10:54am
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Don't have any idea where to get the tail light I changed mine over to a new flush mount set years ago. If you ever run across another hood with the scoop I would love to have one for mine
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Posted By: toedtoes
on 07/13/15 11:07am
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A fellow clipper owner had a scoop made and installed it on his hood. Wasn't that expensive. It is taking him two tries to the get the scoop the right size and angle.
1975 American Clipper RV with Dodge 360 (photo in profile) 1998 American Clipper Fold n Roll Folding Trailer Both born in Morgan Hill, CA to Irv Perch (Daddy of the Aristocrat trailers) |
Posted By: Phantom59
on 07/13/15 11:12am
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You can still get aftermarket fiberglass scoops but it's difficult to put them on a steel hood without it looking like an add on. I want to find a true scoop hood so I can use it for a fresh air intake
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Posted By: Chicknnhead
on 07/13/15 11:50am
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I found the hood from a guy in NEW York that had never installed in from the 70's, I have had the hood about 7 years, took some hard searching to find one
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Posted By: Phantom59
on 07/13/15 11:59am
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Had a friend who trashed a brand new one he had for 20 years about 6 months before he found out I was looking for one
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Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks
on 07/13/15 04:11pm
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Chicknnhead wrote: ![]() well went to get my motorhome at the storage lot on Saturday, and it was vandalized! among the things I have to cleanup on the inside and replace, the only thing on the outside was the tail lights. I NEED HELP locating the bases if anyone has a set of these bases( I have extra lens) I would be interested. maybe you know of a rv in a junk yard that has these tail lights, wasting away It looks like the Miro-Flex brand is now owned by Optronics. Look here. A quick search indicates your particular STT light may be obsolete. I'd contact Optronics to make sure and ask if they have any NOS lights left in a warehouse somewhere. Assuming you want to stay with OEM style, you might have to fabricate new bases. I could do it, using fiberglass & epoxy, but it would be expensive due to labor. Personally, I'd go the restomod route, fabricating something similar but not identical. I'd also upgrade to LED for longevity and lower current draw. The primary issue is the angle between the body and lens. Most STT lights made today are designed to mount on vertical surfaces. I'd do it using built-up wood, fiberglass, and marine epoxy. Best wood would be Port Orford or Alaska Yellow Cedar, although Western Red Cedar would be lighter and almost as rot resistant. The first two are strong while the third is a bit more fragile. Almost any wood would work as long as it's encapsulated (sealed) with marine epoxy such as WEST Systems epoxy. I have a boat built using epoxy encapsulated wood that has survived outdoors in Interior Alaska for almost 20 years, though rain, snow, and temperatures ranging from -50° F to +90° F. The downside to marine epoxy is it's UV sensitive so it needs to be coated with high solids varnish or opaque paint. Take two 2X blocks of wood and bevel them to match the angle of the coach's rear mounting surface. Shape the blocks to match the new lights. (Depending on the lights you choose, this may just consist of rounding the blocks' corners.) Drill out the blocks' centers, leaving 1/2" to 3/4" of wood around the outside. Drill the mounting holes and seal all surfaces with several coats of marine epoxy, including the inside of mounting holes and hollowed-out area. Laminate a layer of 6 oz or lighter fiberglass to the outside and paint to match the RV's body. The fiberglass adds a bit of strength but mainly serves to provide abrasion resistance and help build up epoxy for more moisture resistance. The paint, in addition to matching the coach, protects the epoxy from the effects of sunlight. Contact me if you choose this route and have questions. 1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year) 1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in. 1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A ![]() |
Posted By: timmac
on 07/13/15 06:29pm
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Geez just upgrade to new rear lights and go LED, new rear lights are not that expensive.
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Posted By: Leeann
on 07/13/15 06:45pm
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That's what we did. Brighter, lower draw...new. All good.
'73 Concord 20' Class A w/Dodge 440 - see profile for photo |
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