You might need to take the heater apart. Don't know that model, but our propane furnace had clogged gas channels - rust - in it that wouldn't let it stay running. An hour or two with an utility knife and it's been perfect since.
Also, some contaminated/stale propane will live in the lines. Crack open a burner and let it sit for a minute or two (with your windows open). Close it and go away for a bit. Come back and try again.
'73 Concord 20' Class A w/Dodge 440 - see profile for photo
Leeann - She has a catalytic heater, which is different from your forced-air heater.
Missjaymie wrote:
I believe the heater issue has to do with the "spark" it's an old thermx catalytic heater. I've gotten it to run once, but it usually wont light, and when it does it starts with a puff of flame, that quite frankly worries me.
I believe the heater issue has to do with the "spark" it's an old thermx catalytic heater. I've gotten it to run once, but it usually wont light, and when it does it starts with a puff of flame, that quite frankly worries me.
The difference is combustion within a sealed chamber versus combustion on the surface of a synthetic mat.
Almost all catalytic heaters start with a puff of flame -- unnerving but not really dangerous unless you try to start it with your face, hands, hair or a combustible material close to it.
Leeann's heater draws combustion air in from outside and vents the fumes outside. Yours draws its combustion air from the surface of the synthetic mat (i.e., from the inside of the vehicle) and vents the fumes off the mat's surface, to the inside of the vehicle.
Not the best option for heat but okay if you use some precautions, in addition to the precaution mentioned above.
First, you need to be sure the oxygen used for combustion is replaced. Your vehicle probably has enough air leaks but I'd leave a window slightly open, just in case.
Second, install a good battery-operated carbon monoxide detector (always a good idea) and keep the batteries fresh.
Third, if you find yourself feeling light-headed, dizzy, or unusually sleepy, get out and get some fresh air. At night, I'd leave a window close to, and higher than, the bed slightly open to be sure you get fresh air while sleeping.
Don't let this scare you -- catalytic heaters are comparatively safe, as long as you are aware and use some common sense.
As for the range, Leeann is probably right -- if there's any gas in the lines, it's probably stale or significantly diluted. In my cabin, it takes a couple of minutes for the gas to reach the range and build up sufficient volume whenever I change cylinders.
Good luck and have fun.
1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A
A word of caution. Catalytic heaters of that age usually used asbestos for the burning mat. As you know asbestos is not good for your lungs and asbestos in a vehicle would get a lot of vibration which would tend to break loose more asbestos particles. I would suggest checking into this.
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/wink.gif "wink")
As was mentioned before I could have purchased a newer RV for what I have invested in this one but every thing I do to the Mouse makes it closer to exactly what I want it to be.
78 Dodge Brougham Sportsman. MB400. 360 2bl.
Time to start getting the rigs ready for camping. I've got 2 Chevy Astro,seats from a later model, with bases, to install in ours. I want to use the existing bases as they swivel, so I think the bf will have to make adapter plates as the bolt patters are an inch or two different. They are soooo much more comfortable than the original seats, which hurt me in no time flat.
The dual armrest, dual lumbar seats went into my Astro